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Clutch Experts Help!!!!!

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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Default Clutch Experts Help!!!!!

Ok im putting in a new clutch in my car, because the spec 3 started slipping. I bought a RAM HD clutch kit. I decided to use the stock flywheel, Well it has already been resurfaced once, so i went to get it resurfaced again but i was only going to get 10 thousands taken off. Well oreillys ended up ******* up and taking 35 thousands off. But they only took it out of the center, not all the way out to the edge of the flywheel, because they couldnt get the dial pins out. Well i decided to use it anyways, i got everything back in, and started the car, and it wont take any gear. But if you turn t he car off, it will take everygear. So i took the trans back out, and noticed something. If i put both spec and ram pressure plates on the floor and measure from the floor to the end of the fingers, the fingers on the spec are a 1/8 inch taller, which means i lost that room between the slave, i have the shime that came with the spec kit in it. Whats the deal. And yes i bleed the system. Any Ideas!
oh yeah, you can put the car into gear, and then start it. Put it trys to go dead like your letting out on the clutch, but it doesnt die.




Last edited by 99corvette; Jan 14, 2008 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 08:33 PM
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First -I wouldn't use a flywheel cut that far.

Second -You have to shim out the slave cylinder to make up for the resurfacing.
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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Well it has a shime in it from the last time i got it resurfaced, but since they d idnt resuraface the outside of the flywheel where the pressure plate bolts up, the pressure plate is is in the same place......
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 09:28 PM
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pics added
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 09:47 PM
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new stock ones are 120 -core charge
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Old Jan 14, 2008 | 09:48 PM
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But will that fix it? Should i add a another shime?
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 05:38 AM
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Anymore ideas? The slave is only got 5k miles on it.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 06:19 AM
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First I would just get a new flywheel, I'd actually try to get that shop to reimburse you what they charged for cutting it since they F'd it up. Then do as others have suggested.
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Old Jan 15, 2008 | 09:12 AM
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99corvette you need a new flywheel. You now have a stepped flywheel..the clutch is designed to be on a flat flywheel. As far as the two different clutches the only way to really compare them is to bolt down each assembly (pressure plate & disc) to a flat flywheel. You can’t measure a pressure plates that way they need to be measured as they would be in the car. Hope that helps??

Will Baty
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 05:40 AM
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ok thanks, i will try this, but will the stepped flywheel have anything to do with the slave not engaging??
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Old Jan 16, 2008 | 06:19 AM
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yes, when pressure plate mount on flywheel. it press all the finger down toward flywheel as preload (on flat brand new flywheel). now, you got step down flywheel which the pressure plate mounting surface is the same but the actual clutch contact area is futher down. as you mount the pressure plate, the preload on the disc is not enough. so your slave can't push that extra distance. causing you can't put into gear while running (clutch drag). a new flywheel should fix your problem, but as most people on here will say: while you have tranny out, might as well replace everything. save you trouble in the future.
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Old Jan 17, 2008 | 10:41 PM
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OMFG!!!!!!!!!!!!! I put a flywheel from a car with 28k miles on it in tonight. It was refuraced 10 thousands and looked brand new. Still got the same results!!!!!!!!!!! Not i have to pull the tranny back out again
It has to be in my hydralics right??? The only other thing i know to do is to put a new slave and master in. I bleed it again this time, and the pedal still felt spongey.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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Don't pull it, try bleeding your clutch again.
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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99...lets think about this logically. You have put in a new clutch and flywheel (that was lightly resurfaced)...yet you are still unable to shift gears with the car turned on and the pedal depressed. Hydraulics are the likely culprit. I want to ask a few questions though before assuming and leading you down another rabbit hole. Does pumping the pedal make any difference? You mention that the pedal is spongey...what does the fluid look like now (cloudy, clear). Is the fluid level constant? Get someone to watch the fluid when the pedal is depressed. Is there a noticible change in fluid level during actuation...does the fluid completely disappear from the reservior? Are the lines expanding under pressure? Also, I am sure that you have checked this but make sure that the master-cylinder rod is not bent or broken. I hope this info helps. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
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Old Jan 18, 2008 | 07:55 PM
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Well as far as the questions you asked me, im not really sure, i was in the pumping the clutch while someone bleed it. Pumping the clutch didnt help though. It would get stiffer and then just kinda stick and get spongey again. What is the proper way to bleed these clutches? We might be doing it wrong.
Originally Posted by SPEC-01
99...lets think about this logically. You have put in a new clutch and flywheel (that was lightly resurfaced)...yet you are still unable to shift gears with the car turned on and the pedal depressed. Hydraulics are the likely culprit. I want to ask a few questions though before assuming and leading you down another rabbit hole. Does pumping the pedal make any difference? You mention that the pedal is spongey...what does the fluid look like now (cloudy, clear). Is the fluid level constant? Get someone to watch the fluid when the pedal is depressed. Is there a noticible change in fluid level during actuation...does the fluid completely disappear from the reservior? Are the lines expanding under pressure? Also, I am sure that you have checked this but make sure that the master-cylinder rod is not bent or broken. I hope this info helps. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
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Old Jan 20, 2008 | 08:43 PM
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pumping the pedal does not help.

Originally Posted by SPEC-01
99...lets think about this logically. You have put in a new clutch and flywheel (that was lightly resurfaced)...yet you are still unable to shift gears with the car turned on and the pedal depressed. Hydraulics are the likely culprit. I want to ask a few questions though before assuming and leading you down another rabbit hole. Does pumping the pedal make any difference? You mention that the pedal is spongey...what does the fluid look like now (cloudy, clear). Is the fluid level constant? Get someone to watch the fluid when the pedal is depressed. Is there a noticible change in fluid level during actuation...does the fluid completely disappear from the reservior? Are the lines expanding under pressure? Also, I am sure that you have checked this but make sure that the master-cylinder rod is not bent or broken. I hope this info helps. Let me know what you find. Thanks!
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 09:38 AM
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The fact that the pedal stiffened as it was pumped is evidence that this is likely hydraulic. I suggest Mighty Vac'ing the system from the bleeder. This can be a bit of a pain, as the bleeder is not real conveniently located. You should be able to get thorough instructions for this procedure in the FAQ at the top of this Forum. Try it, and keep us posted. Thanks!
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:26 PM
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Well im jus thinking about replacing the master ans slave and being done with it.
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Old Jan 21, 2008 | 01:47 PM
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Dude, it really sounds like you still have air in the system, how are you bleeding it?? Pump the pedal 3 times and hold it down, have your buddy crack the bleeder for a split second then close it, you dont want it open for a long time, after he says the bleeder is closed lift your foot up and repeat the process 3-4 more times.
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Old Feb 7, 2008 | 07:45 AM
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yeathats what we are doing, but when i let up on the clutch, it doesnt come back up with my foot, it stays down to the floor.


Originally Posted by LS1C5Vette
Dude, it really sounds like you still have air in the system, how are you bleeding it?? Pump the pedal 3 times and hold it down, have your buddy crack the bleeder for a split second then close it, you dont want it open for a long time, after he says the bleeder is closed lift your foot up and repeat the process 3-4 more times.
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