Advice on pulling T-56
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Mentor, Ohio
Advice on pulling T-56 I need to pull my T-56 in my 99 SS so D&D can rebuild it and throw in the good stuff. I don't have access to a lift; therefore, the JETHRO way of doing on the ground will have to suffice. I am sure we can get the car about 2-3 feet off the ground if need be. I have a RAM 6130/402 VDS clutch in there now, but I hope we won't have to be messing with the clutch at all really. I should be able to pull the tran without removing the clutch right? Will I have to reset my clutch engagement at all? Any advice would be appreciated. I have read posts saying not to pull the trans in using the bolts, right? I will also be adding a PRO-5.0 shifter(I will be using the shifters stops too) and I am also going to add a Spohn adjustable torque arm with a driveshaft safety loop.
Re: Advice on pulling T-56 Correct, you do not have to remove the bellhousing or clutch/flywheel. Just disconnect the torque arm, move the Y-pipe, remove the shifter handle, remove the driveshaft, disconnect all electrical plugs, drop down the tranny support, put a rolling floor jack under the tranny, unbolt the tranny (a 4-foot extension with a swivel joint is helpful for the top bolts). Use the jack to slowly lower the tranny and move it out of the way.
If you don't have jackstands, another method would be to use a car hauler and its ramps, pull the car up onto the rear of the trailer so that just its front wheels are on it (trailer attached to a truck of course). Don't forget your wheel chocks. Been there, done that <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Tony
If you don't have jackstands, another method would be to use a car hauler and its ramps, pull the car up onto the rear of the trailer so that just its front wheels are on it (trailer attached to a truck of course). Don't forget your wheel chocks. Been there, done that <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />
Tony
Re: Advice on pulling T-56 Ditto what nine ball said except its not necessary to pull the y-pipe, at least on my car it wasn't SLP LT's w/slp y. You just lift the tailshaft over the y enough for the inputshaft to clear the bellhousing.
If you got a heated garage to do it i wouldn't mind helping out, i've done 3 clutch installs on my car so far.
If you got a heated garage to do it i wouldn't mind helping out, i've done 3 clutch installs on my car so far.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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From: Germantown, MD
Re: Advice on pulling T-56 Yeah I agree, with my FLPs I don't have to pull the Y-Pipe either, although I don't remember if my stock on was in the way of not.
Here's a couple of hints.
1) Drain the tranny first. Once the driveshaft is out and you unbolt the tranny mount the tranmission fluid will flow out the output shaft if it's full.
2) You'll need a REALLY long extention as Tony mentioned. The swival can be a bear to get lined up so what I do is put a little electical tape around the joint. Just 2 or 3 loops should do. It keeps the swival from being too loose and you can actually bend it to the angle you want before putting it up in there. There are two bolts and they are very hard to see. I tend to have a buddy inside the car holding the ratchet w/ 4' ext through the shifter hole. Then I feel for the top bolts and put the extension over top. My buddy is there to make sure it doesn't move. Then I can just slide back and ratchet her off. It's pretty easy once you've done it the first time.
3) If you going jethro style, as I do, you'll want to jack the entire car up as high as possible and try and keep it level. Once the bolts are out, the tranny just doesn't fall. The input shaft is still inside the engine. So you have to wiggle it out and it's helpful if the car is level and you have as much clearance as possible.
4) Jethro style will also require you to have two hyd. jacks w/wheels to support the front and back of the tranny as your trying to wiggle it out and wiggle it back in later.
5) Once it's time to reinstall. Be sure to have white lithium grease for the input shaft and RTV Red silicone gasket maker for the shifter and tranny drain plug.
6) One last thing, the clutch hydrolic line can be a little tricky to get off. You have to slide the sleeve towards the tranny with two flathead screwdrivers(least that's what I used). It should make a tiny little snapping sound once you got it and it slide right out without letting air into the line.
That's all I can think of. The other guys covered the rest. Good luck.
Mike B.
Here's a couple of hints.
1) Drain the tranny first. Once the driveshaft is out and you unbolt the tranny mount the tranmission fluid will flow out the output shaft if it's full.
2) You'll need a REALLY long extention as Tony mentioned. The swival can be a bear to get lined up so what I do is put a little electical tape around the joint. Just 2 or 3 loops should do. It keeps the swival from being too loose and you can actually bend it to the angle you want before putting it up in there. There are two bolts and they are very hard to see. I tend to have a buddy inside the car holding the ratchet w/ 4' ext through the shifter hole. Then I feel for the top bolts and put the extension over top. My buddy is there to make sure it doesn't move. Then I can just slide back and ratchet her off. It's pretty easy once you've done it the first time.
3) If you going jethro style, as I do, you'll want to jack the entire car up as high as possible and try and keep it level. Once the bolts are out, the tranny just doesn't fall. The input shaft is still inside the engine. So you have to wiggle it out and it's helpful if the car is level and you have as much clearance as possible.
4) Jethro style will also require you to have two hyd. jacks w/wheels to support the front and back of the tranny as your trying to wiggle it out and wiggle it back in later.
5) Once it's time to reinstall. Be sure to have white lithium grease for the input shaft and RTV Red silicone gasket maker for the shifter and tranny drain plug.
6) One last thing, the clutch hydrolic line can be a little tricky to get off. You have to slide the sleeve towards the tranny with two flathead screwdrivers(least that's what I used). It should make a tiny little snapping sound once you got it and it slide right out without letting air into the line.
That's all I can think of. The other guys covered the rest. Good luck.
Mike B.
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this is where I did my clutch swap this week, 20 degrees the first day and rainy the next:
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
Last edited by therealcreeper; Jan 18, 2011 at 10:59 PM.
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this is where I did my clutch swap this week, 20 degrees the first day and rainy the next:
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/15gbhoj.jpg[IMG]
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
[IMG]http://i55.tinypic.com/15gbhoj.jpg[IMG]
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
These are a little pricey...but I picked up on and they work great for all sorts of little jobs.
And like others...here's my "shop" haha.
Its easier than you think... This was the first time I removed a trans from a car by itself...without pulling the motor at the same time. And even with my custom exhaust in the way, it was a piece of cake. I couldnt get my car up high enough to do the chest method, so the little cart worked great.
J.
And like others...here's my "shop" haha.
Its easier than you think... This was the first time I removed a trans from a car by itself...without pulling the motor at the same time. And even with my custom exhaust in the way, it was a piece of cake. I couldnt get my car up high enough to do the chest method, so the little cart worked great.
J.
yeah I was really tempted to pick up a harbor freight trans jack, they're around $80 which isn't too too bad. it's a good idea to put down some plywood or sheet metal for the jack to roll on if your driveway/garage floor isn't very smooth, makes rolling it with all that weight on it a lot easier. my driveway is rougher than gravel so it's tough to roll the jack.
Yeah my driveway is pretty rough. The big casters on the dolly help. Ive used that thing for lots of other jobs. Like when I had to remove the motor mount on my jetta, I used that to support the motor. The tilting pad is a nice feature.
It is a big pricey at $80...but you can get them on sale usually, and they're pretty worth it.
J.
It is a big pricey at $80...but you can get them on sale usually, and they're pretty worth it.
J.
Launching!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 277
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From: California
this is where I did my clutch swap this week, 20 degrees the first day and rainy the next:
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
you don't need a lift or heated garage, as long as you have the right tools you'll be fine. I don't know what the "jethro" style is but a floor jack or two helps. definitely get a 3 foot extension and swivel sockets, have some 1/2" to 3/8" and 3/8" to 1/2" adapters on hand with an assortment of extensions and universal joints. besides that just some sockets and you'll figure it out. when putting everything back together just remember to put the torque arm on before the driveshaft, I wasted time doing that.
These are a little pricey...but I picked up on and they work great for all sorts of little jobs.
And like others...here's my "shop" haha.
Its easier than you think... This was the first time I removed a trans from a car by itself...without pulling the motor at the same time. And even with my custom exhaust in the way, it was a piece of cake. I couldnt get my car up high enough to do the chest method, so the little cart worked great.
J.
And like others...here's my "shop" haha.
Its easier than you think... This was the first time I removed a trans from a car by itself...without pulling the motor at the same time. And even with my custom exhaust in the way, it was a piece of cake. I couldnt get my car up high enough to do the chest method, so the little cart worked great.
J.