stevieturbo

Generally Id say there should be no movement at all. But if you could easily stop it with your hand, I guess its probably ok.

In theory, you should be able to rev it, and the wheels wont turn. The clutch should not be grabbing at all.

tici

iTrader: (1)

It's the Throttle Cracker Table (also Airflow decay in gear): it shows G/cyl in a table with rpm vs. MPH.
If yours it's zeroed out above 12 MPH it's not stock
My program is 100% M6 with stock Throttle Cracker values, no residuals of the old A4 program.

When I replaced the clutch included slave cylinder I kept the old master cylinder. I have a new one here and I'll install it in 1-2 weeks, hopefully that will solve the problem! (the actual master cylinder came with the tranny swap kit and it's probably from a 99 car = 9 years old...).

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

No, it's just the Airflow vs. Speed that is zeroed out above 12 MPH. The similar table that you are referring to, Airflow vs. Speed vs. RPM, only has zero values when the car is basically not moving, i.e., 0 MPH at 400-1600 RPM.

Well, there you may be on to something. I must have missed that in your first post, but I thought the MC had been changed as well. I thought you had referred to it as adjustable, but that may have been another post. Is it the new one that is adjustable? That, in and of itself, may not be relevant (since you passed the clutch drag test), but if it's of the post-01 hydraulics lineage it may help your situation. It'll be interesting to see if that's it.

tici

iTrader: (1)

The installed master is modified (adjustable + drill mod) and is 9 years old (hehe!)
The new one is still in my garage... not adjustable and not drilled.
I'm not sure if I'll modify it.

A strange thing: when I apply the cluth pedal several times (maybe just 1/2 of the movement) it gets harder to move. There is a friction somewhere.
I can't imagine that it's the clutch. The slave? The master? THis becomes worse when the engine (and all the rest) is hot.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Well, you know, that's sounding a lot like there's either air or water in the line. Did you get a chance to flush the hydraulics again, or are you going to wait until the new MC goes in?

tici

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to wait...
Right now (Sunday, 5PM) I'm still in the office trying to clean up my mess.
No time for the car, wife or whatever.

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Well, I put my 12 hours in yesterday, so I decided to take today off!

Get out of there and try to enjoy the evening!

tici

iTrader: (1)

Not being married would make that way much easier

By the way: I made a scan of my shifting: from 100% TPS, shift and next 100% TPS it takes 1.0 seconds. Every shift takes the same time.
Same for 1/2 throttle shifts (50% to 50%).

I'm sure it shuldn't take more than 0.5 sec...

Once you sent me a scan of your shifting: it was between 440 and 640 ms!!! Half than my time...

Fran D

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, but I need to get it consistently below 400 ms before I'm happy! But, I may be too old and feeble!

By the way, you officially qualify as the hardest working guy in Switzerland.

tici

iTrader: (1)

Today I replaced the master cylinder and (obvioulsy) bleeded the lines.
It shifts better, much better!

But to be honest I'm not sure that the new master cylinder did the miracle...
The older cylinder isn't damaged and (inside) it looks fine.
The older cylinder was adjustable and the pedal was about 1" higher than the brake pedal.
Now, with the new master (not adjustable) the pedal is as high as the brake pedal and the movement is now shorter than before (1" shorter).
The clutch is disengaging correctly and somehow it shifts faster... maybe because it takes less time to push the clutch pedal?

The next move will be to fll Mobil Synthetic ATF... I''ll post the results.

By the way: I bleeded the hydraulics with pressure, the best way so far

The new master isn't drilled and I honestly I can feel no difference.

tici

iTrader: (1)

I filled Mobil 1 ATF.
Not really better.
WTF!