Clutch problem or synchro problem?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
Clutch problem or synchro problem? Ok heres the deal... my own stupidity but I'm going to need help figuring it out..
I did a burnout the other day and went through different gears. I just did first second and third. After I let off, I went to do the same thing again after a minute to cool down. I tried to go to third, and wouldn't let me in. It just grinded. I tried a couple more times, same result, so I stopped altogether.
I let it cool off for the rest of the night, and when I went to get on the car today, it just will not let me hit 3rd gear quickly at all. I went and bled the clutch, and still the same thing.
Heres a few key things
-regular driving its fine. Does not grind 3rd driving around.
-the clutch seems to engage at the top of the pedal. I have a Spec 3 clutch/flywheel. I can get through the gears barely pushing the pedal down.
-when I get on it, I can shift 1-2 fine and 3-4 fine, but the 2-3 shift just won't go shifting close to redline quickly
-I tried shifting 2-3 holding the clutch pedal basically to the floor. Doing this, I was able to shift 2-3 at redline without a hiccup.
Are my synchros the cause of this problem? Or does it sound more like clutch engagement issues? My car is an 00, but it has 01-02 hydraulics with the drill mod done already. Maybe a bad slave cylinder? Maybe the clutch itself is goofed up? It doesn't seem to engage quite as well as it did before (it was really grabby, now it just feels more laid back)
Please give me some ideas as to whats wrong, as I'd like to know what to fix asap... I understand its hard to give a diagnosis just reading some words but whatever you all have to share
I did a burnout the other day and went through different gears. I just did first second and third. After I let off, I went to do the same thing again after a minute to cool down. I tried to go to third, and wouldn't let me in. It just grinded. I tried a couple more times, same result, so I stopped altogether.
I let it cool off for the rest of the night, and when I went to get on the car today, it just will not let me hit 3rd gear quickly at all. I went and bled the clutch, and still the same thing.
Heres a few key things
-regular driving its fine. Does not grind 3rd driving around.
-the clutch seems to engage at the top of the pedal. I have a Spec 3 clutch/flywheel. I can get through the gears barely pushing the pedal down.
-when I get on it, I can shift 1-2 fine and 3-4 fine, but the 2-3 shift just won't go shifting close to redline quickly
-I tried shifting 2-3 holding the clutch pedal basically to the floor. Doing this, I was able to shift 2-3 at redline without a hiccup.
Are my synchros the cause of this problem? Or does it sound more like clutch engagement issues? My car is an 00, but it has 01-02 hydraulics with the drill mod done already. Maybe a bad slave cylinder? Maybe the clutch itself is goofed up? It doesn't seem to engage quite as well as it did before (it was really grabby, now it just feels more laid back)
Please give me some ideas as to whats wrong, as I'd like to know what to fix asap... I understand its hard to give a diagnosis just reading some words but whatever you all have to share
Like you said it is really hard to diagnose something with just a desciption.
But from the sounds of it it sounds like the trans. The problem is confined to one gear that kinda points to the trans. If the clutch feels good & it still wont only pull one gear you might need a trans overhaul/upgrade.
But from the sounds of it it sounds like the trans. The problem is confined to one gear that kinda points to the trans. If the clutch feels good & it still wont only pull one gear you might need a trans overhaul/upgrade.
Yeah, the fact that it's only one gear experiencing the problem makes me think internal trans as opposed to clutch. But if you want to test the disengagement theory, come to a dead stop with nothing in front of you, put it in first with the clutch pedal all the way to the floor (or wherever you normally push it to when shifting so that it doesn't catch), and rev it up to just under redline. If it's a disengagement issue, it should start to drag and pull you forward even with the pedal depressed all the way.
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
One thing thunder left out is the transmission had a full overhaul not too long ago with upgraded synchros/gears to my knowledge.
edit : ~6k on new tranny Billet Dog keys, bronze fork pads, carbon synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork.
edit : ~6k on new tranny Billet Dog keys, bronze fork pads, carbon synchros, steel 3-4 shift fork.
Last edited by 78LilRed; Mar 6, 2008 at 01:38 PM.
I would do that clutch test to see if it's fully disengaging when the pedal is set where he normally shifts. If it's not, it's probably a clutch or hydraulic issue. If there are no problems and it's still only doing it in one gear, then it still sounds like a tranny problem to me.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
anyone have an ideas? Think it could be a slave cylinder problem?
when I went to bleed the clutch, the line going to the slave in the bellhousing was moving a round a little, like the slave cylinder was loose. I can only guess its not supposed to be like that?
when I went to bleed the clutch, the line going to the slave in the bellhousing was moving a round a little, like the slave cylinder was loose. I can only guess its not supposed to be like that?
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probably hydro' iv been having all kinds of problems.. new master, slave, and clutch are going in soon.. DOT 4 clutch fluid with the line drilled and wrapped and change the tranny fluid
hopefully I kiss my problems good bye
hopefully I kiss my problems good bye
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TECH Addict
Joined: Nov 2005
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I'm more inclined to think you glazed your clutch somewhat.
Also I would indicate a DRIVER PROBLEM first. While it looks cool on videos, shifting through burnouts is just asking for something to break.
the speed differential that will occur from a tire hooking during a burnout between the clutch and the engine will be quite large. I'm surprised you aren't suffering from WOT slippage in 1st or 2nd already after making multiple attempts at the shift burnout.
I had my stock clutch slip under WOT in 1st then eventually 2nd and 3rd gear. Still had plenty of material, but the pressure plate and flywheel had discoloration indicating a lot of heat.
first stop doing that, second if you are going to change hydraulics, might as well put in a new clutch as you are in there. The LS7 is relatively cheap for a clutch.
Also I would indicate a DRIVER PROBLEM first. While it looks cool on videos, shifting through burnouts is just asking for something to break.
the speed differential that will occur from a tire hooking during a burnout between the clutch and the engine will be quite large. I'm surprised you aren't suffering from WOT slippage in 1st or 2nd already after making multiple attempts at the shift burnout.
I had my stock clutch slip under WOT in 1st then eventually 2nd and 3rd gear. Still had plenty of material, but the pressure plate and flywheel had discoloration indicating a lot of heat.
first stop doing that, second if you are going to change hydraulics, might as well put in a new clutch as you are in there. The LS7 is relatively cheap for a clutch.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
I'm more inclined to think you glazed your clutch somewhat.
Also I would indicate a DRIVER PROBLEM first. While it looks cool on videos, shifting through burnouts is just asking for something to break.
the speed differential that will occur from a tire hooking during a burnout between the clutch and the engine will be quite large. I'm surprised you aren't suffering from WOT slippage in 1st or 2nd already after making multiple attempts at the shift burnout.
I had my stock clutch slip under WOT in 1st then eventually 2nd and 3rd gear. Still had plenty of material, but the pressure plate and flywheel had discoloration indicating a lot of heat.
first stop doing that, second if you are going to change hydraulics, might as well put in a new clutch as you are in there. The LS7 is relatively cheap for a clutch.
Also I would indicate a DRIVER PROBLEM first. While it looks cool on videos, shifting through burnouts is just asking for something to break.
the speed differential that will occur from a tire hooking during a burnout between the clutch and the engine will be quite large. I'm surprised you aren't suffering from WOT slippage in 1st or 2nd already after making multiple attempts at the shift burnout.
I had my stock clutch slip under WOT in 1st then eventually 2nd and 3rd gear. Still had plenty of material, but the pressure plate and flywheel had discoloration indicating a lot of heat.
first stop doing that, second if you are going to change hydraulics, might as well put in a new clutch as you are in there. The LS7 is relatively cheap for a clutch.
I'm not experiencing any slipping at all in any gear.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, NE
went out and did the "slipping" test... 5th gear floor it, doesn't slip a bit, even with 6th gear. The RPM slowly climb with speed.
Had a friend of mine who at one point had a 99 LS1 6 spd, said the car feels similar to his when the slave slowly gave out in his car. The pedal just feels sloppy (it goes down and comes back, but not a lot of pressure like before).
Had a friend of mine who at one point had a 99 LS1 6 spd, said the car feels similar to his when the slave slowly gave out in his car. The pedal just feels sloppy (it goes down and comes back, but not a lot of pressure like before).
