Clutch for a 402 making 500whp give or take a few
03-17-2008, 03:58 PM
#21
LS2...Actually the fact that the disc is full-faced allows it to have a higher torque capacity and better drivability. By using a higher-friction coeffecient disc that is full faced you get the best of both worlds.
Js2...I have no idea what you are talking about but you are clearly upset aboput something. I will be happy to talk with you about your issues if you like. If you are going to start raising hell at least clue me into the situation. You say you are having an issue...apparently your second issue...I have not intentionally lied or miss-informed you and if you feel that that is the case, call me and we can talk about it. Anyone here that knows me knows that I am a pretty reasonable and helpful guy. Let me knowif I can be of any further assistance.
Js2...I have no idea what you are talking about but you are clearly upset aboput something. I will be happy to talk with you about your issues if you like. If you are going to start raising hell at least clue me into the situation. You say you are having an issue...apparently your second issue...I have not intentionally lied or miss-informed you and if you feel that that is the case, call me and we can talk about it. Anyone here that knows me knows that I am a pretty reasonable and helpful guy. Let me knowif I can be of any further assistance.
03-17-2008, 04:16 PM
#22
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I haven't seen rave reviews on spec clutches and have seen pictures of them exploding.
I can however tell you that the 3+ in my car does exactly what I want it to do.
Yes, it does chatter once it gets pretty hot, but that's if you can't drive. It took about a month for me to figure out how to drive the clutch the way it wants to be driven.
It acts completely different when it is cold as opposed to when it is hot. When it is cold you have to give it some more RPM's and let it out faster because it wants to grab as soon as it engages the flywheel.
Once it gets fully hot (stop and go traffic) it want to be slipped a little more with less throttle. From a stop you throw it a rev and let out kind of slow. No chatter. If you try to drive it like its hot when its cold or vice versa it is going to chatter. It is not going to drive 100% consistent like an OEM clutch.
For what it cost and what it does, I have no complaints. It does its job just like it is supposed to and I have no slippage issues. You have a little more power than me but I don't think the 3+ would sweat it.
You can't go wrong with a Tex Z grip either. 2 of my friends are running them and love it. It is a lot easier to get used to than the 3+. It is expensive though lol.
I can however tell you that the 3+ in my car does exactly what I want it to do.
Yes, it does chatter once it gets pretty hot, but that's if you can't drive. It took about a month for me to figure out how to drive the clutch the way it wants to be driven.
It acts completely different when it is cold as opposed to when it is hot. When it is cold you have to give it some more RPM's and let it out faster because it wants to grab as soon as it engages the flywheel.
Once it gets fully hot (stop and go traffic) it want to be slipped a little more with less throttle. From a stop you throw it a rev and let out kind of slow. No chatter. If you try to drive it like its hot when its cold or vice versa it is going to chatter. It is not going to drive 100% consistent like an OEM clutch.
For what it cost and what it does, I have no complaints. It does its job just like it is supposed to and I have no slippage issues. You have a little more power than me but I don't think the 3+ would sweat it.
You can't go wrong with a Tex Z grip either. 2 of my friends are running them and love it. It is a lot easier to get used to than the 3+. It is expensive though lol.
03-18-2008, 04:13 AM
#23
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I will, how much is Mcleod twin discs. i want a lighter thqan stock FW, but not too light, since I Drag race as well as road race... well I guess light is ok now, since I use slicks..
03-18-2008, 04:16 AM
#24
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I seriously doubt I wanna get a SPEC
I mean if ive heard 5 bad things about Text
ive heard 5 bad things about RAM
10 bad things about LS7, mostly due to limited power level...
Then, Ive heard 50 bad things about SPEC
I mean if ive heard 5 bad things about Text
ive heard 5 bad things about RAM
10 bad things about LS7, mostly due to limited power level...
Then, Ive heard 50 bad things about SPEC
03-18-2008, 04:46 AM
#25
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Alot of people feel more inclined to talk about a bad experience with a product rather than a good experience. If the clutch works, ok. If the clutch fails in 2 months, you will be more likely to post about it. That being said, there are alot more people on the boards running spec clutches compared to Text and Ram clutches. All of these clutches will work good as long as you break it in properly.
03-18-2008, 03:43 PM
#26
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Alot of people feel more inclined to talk about a bad experience with a product rather than a good experience. If the clutch works, ok. If the clutch fails in 2 months, you will be more likely to post about it. That being said, there are alot more people on the boards running spec clutches compared to Text and Ram clutches. All of these clutches will work good as long as you break it in properly.
03-19-2008, 06:33 AM
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why have i heard so much trash talk on the SPECs though...
Also I want this to be pretty driveable, I know Im gonna have to sacrifice some driveability for power, but I dont wanna go nuts either... lets say a clutch that is well for 600rwhp, just in case I decide to go bigger with the cam or nitrous..
whats gonna happen if I keep in my LS7 clutch?
Also I want this to be pretty driveable, I know Im gonna have to sacrifice some driveability for power, but I dont wanna go nuts either... lets say a clutch that is well for 600rwhp, just in case I decide to go bigger with the cam or nitrous..
whats gonna happen if I keep in my LS7 clutch?
I have used a SPEC 3 on an LT1 and a SPEC 3+ on my LS1. I didn't have a problem with either of them but the 3+ is definately my favorite. For a daily driver that sees track time and for a lower price the SPEC 3+ is a decent deal as I'm sure other brands would be too though. Just don't expect any aftermarket clutch to drive like OEM and handle that much power plus be able to slip it like crazy all the time and expect it to be great.
If I had the money to spare I would get multiple disks.
03-19-2008, 04:00 PM
#29
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how much do these cost? and generally how long do they last? Ive not seen specs lasting longer than 20k miles
and the text clutches, how long do they last?
03-19-2008, 04:03 PM
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You hear more crap about the SPECs because a lot more people are using them. But if you look at a picture of a regular SPEC 3 and then include the driving habits of the average people that drive F-bodies and I'm sure you can figure out why they have a problem with them sometimes.
I have used a SPEC 3 on an LT1 and a SPEC 3+ on my LS1. I didn't have a problem with either of them but the 3+ is definately my favorite. For a daily driver that sees track time and for a lower price the SPEC 3+ is a decent deal as I'm sure other brands would be too though. Just don't expect any aftermarket clutch to drive like OEM and handle that much power plus be able to slip it like crazy all the time and expect it to be great.
If I had the money to spare I would get multiple disks.
I have used a SPEC 3 on an LT1 and a SPEC 3+ on my LS1. I didn't have a problem with either of them but the 3+ is definately my favorite. For a daily driver that sees track time and for a lower price the SPEC 3+ is a decent deal as I'm sure other brands would be too though. Just don't expect any aftermarket clutch to drive like OEM and handle that much power plus be able to slip it like crazy all the time and expect it to be great.
If I had the money to spare I would get multiple disks.
I gotta make a decision soon to purchase my clutch... But, I still want more people to chime in on what is best for my application...
03-19-2008, 04:19 PM
#31
LS, I wanted to make sure that you realized that stage 3+ is a full-faced disc. That being said it will be smoother than the stage 3. Remember, high-performance aftermarket clutch kits, no matter which one you pick, will not feel exactly like stock...but they will hold more power and generally be more durable in high-abuse applications (remember a number of factors impact clutch life). Let me know if I may be of any further assistance. Thanks!
03-19-2008, 06:25 PM
#32
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LS, I wanted to make sure that you realized that stage 3+ is a full-faced disc. That being said it will be smoother than the stage 3. Remember, high-performance aftermarket clutch kits, no matter which one you pick, will not feel exactly like stock...but they will hold more power and generally be more durable in high-abuse applications (remember a number of factors impact clutch life). Let me know if I may be of any further assistance. Thanks!
Thanks
Well as of now, since Im getting a new engine and am gonna use the hard break in process. I cant get a brand new clutch since, I will glaze it over. so Im thinking the first 100 miles or so. im gonna use my LS7 clutch still..
03-21-2008, 08:47 AM
#35
You hear more crap about the SPECs because a lot more people are using them. But if you look at a picture of a regular SPEC 3 and then include the driving habits of the average people that drive F-bodies and I'm sure you can figure out why they have a problem with them sometimes.
I have used a SPEC 3 on an LT1 and a SPEC 3+ on my LS1. I didn't have a problem with either of them but the 3+ is definately my favorite. For a daily driver that sees track time and for a lower price the SPEC 3+ is a decent deal as I'm sure other brands would be too though. Just don't expect any aftermarket clutch to drive like OEM and handle that much power plus be able to slip it like crazy all the time and expect it to be great.
If I had the money to spare I would get multiple disks.
I have used a SPEC 3 on an LT1 and a SPEC 3+ on my LS1. I didn't have a problem with either of them but the 3+ is definately my favorite. For a daily driver that sees track time and for a lower price the SPEC 3+ is a decent deal as I'm sure other brands would be too though. Just don't expect any aftermarket clutch to drive like OEM and handle that much power plus be able to slip it like crazy all the time and expect it to be great.
If I had the money to spare I would get multiple disks.
I have used 2 Spec 3 clutches that worked flawlessly for me. Recently I was using a Textralia 0z700 X grip and it held quite well but I had engagement issues that intensified with time, it damaged my T56. I don't feel there is any perfect clutch, and personally I didn't find the customer service from Textralia to be very good....unlike what I was led to believe. At 500rwhp+ I would be looking for a twin disc regardless of the price.
03-21-2008, 10:00 PM
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Good post ^.
I have used 2 Spec 3 clutches that worked flawlessly for me. Recently I was using a Textralia 0z700 X grip and it held quite well but I had engagement issues that intensified with time, it damaged my T56. I don't feel there is any perfect clutch, and personally I didn't find the customer service from Textralia to be very good....unlike what I was led to believe. At 500rwhp+ I would be looking for a twin disc regardless of the price.
I have used 2 Spec 3 clutches that worked flawlessly for me. Recently I was using a Textralia 0z700 X grip and it held quite well but I had engagement issues that intensified with time, it damaged my T56. I don't feel there is any perfect clutch, and personally I didn't find the customer service from Textralia to be very good....unlike what I was led to believe. At 500rwhp+ I would be looking for a twin disc regardless of the price.
Id like a link with price and a pic if possible please.
03-22-2008, 08:38 AM
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Did you ever think about a RPS Street Twin Carbon/Organic???
I have it running marvelously and handling my "fast" upshifting @ 7200rpm in my 511 rwhp ZO6 actually....
Christian
I have it running marvelously and handling my "fast" upshifting @ 7200rpm in my 511 rwhp ZO6 actually....
Christian
03-22-2008, 03:17 PM
#39
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I can't speak from personal ownership, but my friend loves his Mcleod. I've driven the car and have to agree that the cost, streetability, and wear seem good. He does John Force burnouts at the track and launches at about 4200 on Nitto drag radials.