malibu350

Hey guys,

I went to the track a few weeks back and on my first run I lauched at about 2000 rpms and my clutch pedal stuck to the floor board and I smoked clutch all the way down the track. I thought that I had totally fried my clutch but it still worked, the pedal just felt a little spungy... anybody have any ideas??? BTW I Have a 99 T/A with a 6spd, I have swapped out the stock intake manifold with the Z06, mac headers, hooker cat-back, and ls1 edit.

<small>[ March 03, 2003, 11:59 AM: Message edited by: malibu350 ]</small>

TrackBurger

I had the same problem with mine about a year ago. It would stick to the floor at the end of a pass at the track, but then was fine just driving around normal. The hydraulic system in our cars sucks. I let it go and it lasted me about a year(not too many more track runs in that time) and it finally went out about 2 weeks ago. I replaced my clutch and flywheel with a SPEC and it works great now. Oh, and my flywheel had hot spots all over it. I think that when the fluid gets hot it dosnt push the piston back out of the master cylinder, causing the pedal to stick. someone correct me if I'm wrong. But I can tell you that many people have had this same problem and its not going to go away on its own. Upgrade your clutch if you dont want to get stuck at the track or on the side of the road. hope this helps.

buschman

It sounds like your 99 slave is the problem. You probably want to upgrade to the 02 slave cylinder. Problem with that is to swap the slave cylinder means you have to pull the tranny. That's a lot of labor to replace an $80 part. Most people do the clutch and slave at the same time. I mean since the tranny's off, you might as well and save yourself some time and/or money.

Swapping my slave and bleeding the system really well cured this problem for me.

You also might want to check your master cylinder's clutch fluid resevior. Make sure you aren't running low or that the fluid hasn't turned black. If that were the case then a system flush might cure the problem.

Good luck,
Mike B.

malibu350

thanks for the advice guys...anybody know where I can get the new slave??? And does anybody have any recommendations on what type of clutch to get? I plan on doing stage 1-2 heads and cam in the near near future...

TrackBurger

Not sure how much just the slave is, but I got the master and slave from eastside dyno for $249.33. Dealership wanted $279...Hey, 30 bucks is 30 bucks right? I got the SPEC stageII but if your planning on doing heads/cam then I would recomend at least the stage III. Check the sponsor section, Eastside is having a sweet deal on SPEC's right now.

buschman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by malibu350:
<strong>anybody know where I can get the new slave???</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I suggest going to www.gmpartsdirect.com

They sell this part for somewhere around $70.

The 2001 GM Slave Cylinder is part #12565145

As for clutches, I suggest checking out Ram and Mcleod clutches.

Mike

malibu350

Okay so if I'm supposed to replace my clutch what should I get???? Centerforce, Z06, or Mcleoud..or something else?

buschman

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by malibu350:
<strong> Okay so if I'm supposed to replace my clutch what should I get???? Centerforce, Z06, or Mcleoud..or something else? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">you have to be specific what you're looking for, what drivetrain setup you have, and how much power you want this clutch to handle.

Mike

malibu350

well right now as far as drive train, everything is stock. And I'm not really worried about how hard it's going to be driving it on the street, because once I change my heads and cam out I don't plan on driving it daily. So that is also not a concern, but I do know that right this minute I don't need one that can handle over a 1000 hp. Maybe when I get that twin turbo set up I will. But until then I think something that can handle about 650 hp would be good.

buschman

Well even though I'm not a huge fan of the McCleod master cylinder, I really like their clutches. I have the single disk kevlar/organic(SDK) and it feels great on the street. I've also heard of guys cutting 1.4Xs at the track with this clutch. It will also not be nearly as hard on your current 10-bolt as McLeod's more agressive clutches, like the twin disk or the iron disk(REV-LOK II). While these two might offer more grab for higher horsepower cars, they will annihilate your 10-bolt instantly. If it's not a daily driver, you get a well built 12bolt/9", and you don't mind the on/off characteristics of the iron disk then I'd say go for that one. If you want a hard grabbing clutch that has street manors, get the SDK.

I don't know Ram's line up as well, cause I went with McLeod, but I've heard really good reports about those clutches as well.

Mike

30thta436

iTrader: (10)

The clutch pedal sticking to the floor at the top of a hard run is caused weak pressure plate fingers. This problem is noticed in 98-01 f-bodies. I personally had the problem. A new clutch/pressure plate will fix it. At high rpms the pressure plate fingers are held in the applied postition by centrificual force. The pedal stays on the floor until the rpms drop.