I have had my new clutch in for a week, Spec Stage 3 ceramic, and everything is going fine. The engagement and shifting is fine, but my pedal is a little mushy, so I'd like to go ahead and bleed the components.
How do I bleed the clutch components in the car? The car is up on a lift right now so it will be easy access - I just need to know the process. I assume it is like brakes - where someone is in the car - pump the pedal a number of times, then hold while I release pressure under the car. But which fitting/valve to I open to release the pressure? Or if I'm totally wrong, just point me in the right direction.

Thanks

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by ClassicCollector:
<strong> I have had my new clutch in for a week, Spec Stage 3 ceramic, and everything is going fine. The engagement and shifting is fine, but my pedal is a little mushy, so I'd like to go ahead and bleed the components.
How do I bleed the clutch components in the car? The car is up on a lift right now so it will be easy access - I just need to know the process. I assume it is like brakes - where someone is in the car - pump the pedal a number of times, then hold while I release pressure under the car. But which fitting/valve to I open to release the pressure? Or if I'm totally wrong, just point me in the right direction.

Thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">We accomplished this by the following procedure. Fill the reservoir to full. Underneath the car you will need a 1/4" drive 7/16" socket and a small 1/4" drive breaker to open up the bleeder valve for a few seconds. The bleeder valve is located about 2.5 inches or so above the quick connect fitting; you won't be able to see it with your eyes just feel for it. Connect the quick connect fitting (steel braided line) back into it's receptacle. Check the reservoir again and top off if needed. Hold the clutch pedal to the floor and open the bleeder valve until the fluid flow slows way down. Release the clutch pedal and check the reservoir level. Top it off as needed. Press the clutch pedal again to the floor and hold it while opening the bleeder valve. Repeat this process until you get the normal feel back in the clutch pedal. We ended up just pumping my clutch pedal 30 or so times over and over until the feel came back to the pedal. Obviously, you will need a friend under the car operating the bleeder valve while the clutch pedal is be held on the floor.

 

This was taken out of installU and is what I have used in the past.

 

Thanks Teddy - see you at the track real soon <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

 

The above method will get you going but it seems to be hit or miss as to whether you get all the air out of the system. I've been fighting my hydraulics for quite some time now and I've used just about every method with no luck. That is until I bought the Mity-vac from harbor freight. Using this tool, I guarantee you to get every bit of air out of the system. I thought my clutch was bled pefectly but I still had a mushy pedal. So I hooked up the mity-vac and was amazed at how much air was still in the system. Now my clutch feels very firm and doesn't get spongy at the end of the track. Also, no more grinding with WOT runs.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 99ZEOD:
<strong> The above method will get you going but it seems to be hit or miss as to whether you get all the air out of the system. I've been fighting my hydraulics for quite some time now and I've used just about every method with no luck. That is until I bought the Mity-vac from harbor freight. Using this tool, I guarantee you to get every bit of air out of the system. I thought my clutch was bled pefectly but I still had a mushy pedal. So I hooked up the mity-vac and was amazed at how much air was still in the system. Now my clutch feels very firm and doesn't get spongy at the end of the track. Also, no more grinding with WOT runs. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Did you bleed the system when it was out of the car or on the car?

 

I bled it in the car. All you have to do is pop the hood, unscrew the reservoir cap and attach the pump. It is so much easier than the old pump and crack method. the end result is better as well.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 99ZEOD:
<strong> I bled it in the car. All you have to do is pop the hood, unscrew the reservoir cap and attach the pump. It is so much easier than the old pump and crack method. the end result is better as well. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Interesting! How much is the mighty vac? After hooking it up to the reservoir, what else do you do? Pump the clutch pedal? Drink a beer? <img border="0" alt="[chug]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_chug.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

 

The mity-vac is about $50 from harbor freight online.

OK here's how you do it. Fill up the catch can about half way and attach it to the pump. Find an attachment in the kit that will barely fit into the hole at the bottom of the fluid reservoir and attach it to the end of the hose. Before you start applying vacuum to anything fill the hose about half way. This is important! If you don't you could release air back in the system when you release the suction. Now hold the attachment in the hole at the bottom of the reservoir and pump to about 10Hg and wait about a minute. You will probably notice some very small bubbles at this point. Wait for them to stop, then release vacuum and pull the attachment out at the same time. Fill reservoir as needed. Repeat this process but increase the vacuum to 15Hg then another time at 20Hg. I pumped the clutch pedal a few times in between applications of vacuum but it's up to you, I don't think it's a crucial step.

Now I know this sounds very confusing and you're probably saying "what the hell is he talking about?", but when you get the pump it will all make sense. If you have any questions about this, feel free to email me and I'll help any way I can.

Jay

<small>[ March 06, 2003, 10:23 AM: Message edited by: 99ZEOD ]</small>

 

Would you happen to know the part number for the version of the mityvac you used??

Very interested, as I'll be needing to bleed mine here in the next few days.

 

The part # is 2068-5VGA

 

Almost forgot. If you need this part quickly, you need to make arrangements with harbor freight to rush delivery. I didn't do this and it took three weeks to get to me. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" />

 

Thanks, 99ZEOD <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

No sweat. Let us know how it works out.

 

son of a b*&ch.....i just ordered mine through harbor freight....

 

Thanks for the great info. I got the pump from Sears today and am going to go out and give it a try here in a few minutes. It is 35 bucks at sears.

 

Brandon, it's pretty easy. Have someone, or yourself sit up under the car and put a socket on the valve and bleed them just like you do brakes. Pump the clutch pedal, hold and crack the valve. Do so about 5 times and it should be bled.

Just a FYI for you, my Star clutch felt the same way. The pedal was mushy, no matter how much I bled it. I bled your clutch after doing the drill mod, so it should be fine. But it's your car, have fun <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />


Josh