Omec

iTrader: (2)

thanks for the reply bro. im banging my head trying to get this car rolling. stupid stuff ya know. im gonna bleed it somemore tomorrow and see what happens. thanks again for the uplifting reply man. GN4life good luck dude. im gonna beat, i mean bleed mine some more i guess.

gn4life

iTrader: (3)

Omec Its good to know I am not the only one going through this dumb ish right now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am sure between us we will get this figured out..... If i make ANY headway I will be sure to let you know and I hope u do the same BTW
Where did you get ur LS7 kit from?????????????????

I also will try one last bleed attempt then I guess our other options are in this order....

1. Tow to dealersip and pay at least $83 bucks for them to bleed it and make 100% sure no trapped air

2. Pull presure plate make sure no fingers are bent or uneven

3. Adjust pressure plate

4. Try to send back kit and lose months of limited summer driving time and be out hundreds of hundreds of dollars

HellOnWeelz thanks for info.... The Pressure plate is exactly how it come out the box.....SO WHAT DO U SUGGEST TO DO... ADJUST IT to full CCW??? OR JUST LEAVE IT??? AND ALSO WHAT BLEEDING METHOD DID U FIND MOST EFFECTIVE...PLEASE BE SPECIFIC ANY STEP BY STEP INSTRUCTION WILL BER VERY HELPFUL...

Thnx

Texas 02 Z28

iTrader: (14)

I got my LS7/LS2 combo from scoggin's and put it in out of the box with no problems. No adjusting anything and it grabbed from the floor for a while, but eased up a bit and is perfect now. I've put about 20k miles on it now and it's still grabbing pretty good.


OP - I'm not too familiar with adjusting the PP, but I'm guessing that you got it out of the box ready to go, but adjusted it to where it won't disengage when the pedal's depressed. Try turning the screw back to where it started at and see if that works.

Omec

iTrader: (2)

sorta good news. i got the car to move. its realy hard to get into gear but i did. im not going to run it this way though cuz im sure im putting alot of stress on the 1st gear syncro every time i push it into gear. when i do get it moving it seems to shift ok. down shifting sucks though. pedal grabs realy low as stated. im pretty sure ive still got some air in it. ive been staying up waaay to late over the last few days so im not going to realy screw w/ it tonight. ive been bleeding it the reg way and via vac pump. i asked my tool guy today if he can get me the motive kit and is looking into it. i could just buy it online but i dont want to pay for it all at once. i think w/ a good pressure bleed it will be tit. untill i get the motive kit im going to keep bleeding the other ways. i did vac it abit tonight and a few good size bubbles came out.

also if you havnt tried. pump it hard about 100 times to try and get the self adjuster to work. i didnt relise these clutches self adjust. im a diesel tech and do clutch swaps every now and again. some times ill use whats called a solo-clutch and that uses the same princibles as the LS7 clutch. you dont want to adjust it off the car. if there was an access hole in the trans you could do it on the vehicle but alas there is non. before work this morning i figured id pump the **** out of it cause i was grumpy from too little sleep and was able to get it into gear after. like i said though not good enough. keep trying dude. ill let you know what happens w/ mine.

gn4life

iTrader: (3)

I was also told to... "100% make sure bleeder screw on the slave is pointed upwards while bleeding it will help alot" Might be helpful to u not to me already done like this...
Ok cool I am going to put new master on again and bleed some more than take to dealership and have them bleed it. I also got this advice from another website for the self adjusting...but Yeah im gonna pump the crap out of this when its back on the ground...
Here you go if pumping it helped this might help u too.

from a guy named CoreTA from another site

"With my car, we bled the **** out of it. Even still, it wouldn't disengage. Put the car in gear, then start it with the clutch depressed. Make sure you have the e-brake on, and from this point, feather the clutch in and out slowly like you are going to start it rolling. This will sort of break in the clutch in a way, after you do this a few times you should be able to move into other gears with the clutch in. After this point the more you drive the easier it gets. Albiet, the pedal grabs REALLY low (like 1 inch) initially, and comes up with use.

Let me know how this goes."

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

I'm CoreTA on N2S. My car drives great with about 200 or so miles on the LS7 clutch.
The pedal was really low and grabby for about the first 40 miles, and after that it's about where I'd expect it to be. Mine completely disengages as confirmed with a test of:

Stop on level surface, put into first gear, press clutch to floor, rev slowly to 5500 or so, if car doesn't move at any point your clutch completely disengages as intended.

Omec

iTrader: (2)

hey man, i can get it into gear and drive it but its hard to do (get it into 1st and reverse). do you think ill have any luck feathering the clutch to try and brake it in? dont wanna brake anything. was this the same problem you had?

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

Mine wasn't going into any gears when the car was on if started in neutral. We bled it, got good pedal feel, then put it into first, started it and did as described. I'd definitely give it a shot.

gn4life

iTrader: (3)

Switched out LS-7 Pressure Plate/disc with new Pressure Plate and new LS-7 Clutch disc.....

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So either it was a bad pressure plate or bad disc
Brand new kit with faulty parts....
-I'm out hundreds in shipping losses

-I'm out over a hundred in unneeded hydrolics....

-I'm out humdreds in extra charges from the transmission shop....Cant blame them they have had my tranny out at least half a dozen times, and have been working on my car for just under 4 weeks

THANKS GM!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spoke to a LS-1 auto and t56 transmission GURU in Floridia...
And he says that THIS IS A COMMON OCURRANCE AS WELL. LS-7 CLUTCH KITS COME WITH BAD PPs or disc alot. In fact alot of shops IN THE KNOW will not put them in any more due to this!!!!!!!!

Any other updates?????

melchoir

iTrader: (4)

That sucks.. I guess I got lucky. shrug

slick red z

iTrader: (3)

do any of u guys know the part number for the ls7 clutch

danf1000

iTrader: (2)

Does it make sense that the LS7 kits sometimes come just a bit too thick........

In other words, in the quest to place the stacked thickness right for operation on PP adjustment initial setting, there is a manufactured tolerance that statistically enables a chance that the assembly just ends up too thick??.

We've all heard of the statements from just about everybody who goes this route that you have to wear it down a bit in order to get proper functionality. Perhaps GM engineers, in order to get the most outta the clutch, have erred too far to the thick side.

I'm installing mine right now. I'll probably just beat on it until it settles in. hope my synchros survive................

02slowZ28

I just threw mine in along with new hydrolics ran fine for about 600 miles when the new slave f**ked up. Drooped the tranny put a new slave in been doing fine since.

bearcatt

iTrader: (41)

Hi all,

I just installed a new AC Delco C5 Z06 replacement clutch/flywheel.
( which is actually a LuK ). The original clutch was a Luk also.

I also replaced the all the hydraulics and did the drill mod.
I did just the slave cylinder first and then did the master
when my initial clutch install wasn't successful.

The pedal feels good but will not do into gear. And yes I've bled
every which way to Sunday.


At this point I'm just begining to think that replacing a clutch with
these cars becomes a luck of the draw. It's been making me wonder
if some of these OEM replacement clutches are defective.

It seems that some have success and others have issues that are not
install related. It would be nice if someone made replacement parts that
just worked all the time.

BTW... replacing the master cylinder was a BITCH !!!



.

makxc50099

any new news on how to solve this problem besides slipping the clutch or trying to get a new one? casue im in the process of putting a new one in as well and its doing the same thing to me and driving me crazy

timberman00

iTrader: (1)

Installed my LS7/LS2 clutch last weekend. Went through 3 quarts of DOT 3. For bleeding, I would pump the pedal till firm, open and close the bleeder a little and repeat about 5 times. Add more fluid and start again. After a half bottle of fluid, I gave the pedal about 100 pumps and cracked the bleeder open and closed real quick, pumped the pedal till firm and started the car while on jack stands. Put it in gear and if the tires moved with the clutch in, I started the whole process over for another 1/2 quart. It took 2 quarts to bleed the system, but the pedal engaged right off the floor, so I went through a 3rd quart to try to get it to come up a bit. It didn't.

The clutch has a great feel, and I only have 90 miles on it, but the pedal is engaging and releasing about 1" off the floor now. I can live with that!

Red99TransAm

THANKS GM!!!!!!!!!!!!
Spoke to a LS-1 auto and t56 transmission GURU in Floridia...
And he says that THIS IS A COMMON OCURRANCE AS WELL. LS-7 CLUTCH KITS COME WITH BAD PPs or disc alot. In fact alot of shops IN THE KNOW will not put them in any more due to this!!!!!!!!

Any other updates?????[/QUOTE]

Would that guru be fernando by any chance? Because if so, he told me a while ago also that he hates the LS7 clutches and does not recommend them to anyone. He is a great guy and knows his stuff.

SladeX

I recall hearing about cases of bad pressure plates, could be the issue. I'm at over 30k on my LS7 clutch and over 100+ passes on it at the track.

As for bleeding, you need to push and HOLD the clutch pedal in while cracking the bleeder. Breaking it open while the system is static does nothing for getting any air out. Two person job unless you have a remote bleeder setup with a speed bleeder on it.

DaddySS

Has anyone contacted Luk? These guys build quality stuff and I am sure they would be interested to hear of these issues.

There is gm technical bulletin on bleeding the clutch using the mity vac (their recommended method).

I believe that many of the issues with not releasing are due to not getting the air out.