kubus_stroinski

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys

I have a 1991 Camaro RS with a LS1/T56 swapped into it from a 2000 Camaro SS.

This past weekend I swapped in a LS7 clutch to replace my LS1 clutch since it had begun to chatter and was gross etc..

On the GTO forums, someone posted this

We listened to what he said and we adjusted the pressure plate.

The parts I put in are these

LS7 clutch
LS7 pressure plate
LS2 flywheel
LS1 slave cylinder
Pilot bearing

Once the car is on and in neutral and sitting still, we cant get it into any gear... Its as if the clutch isnt disengaging fully... While driving, it is a huge pain to pull it out of gear with the clutch pedal pressed in...

Some people say that their clutch engages right at the floor with the LS7 clutch but it seems like the pedal is just not doing very much...

What can I do? Im assuming the problem is with the adjustment on the pressure plate... Do I just need to drop the tranny and readjust the pressure plate? I can barely drive my car the way it is now... When you shift, its necessary to rev match and force it into gear and when you need to stop and start moving again you need to turn the car off and put it into first and then start the car again to begin moving....

Please help. Thanks!

stoverz28

iTrader: (8)

could be a number of problems. When your in gear and at a idle w/ the clutch pedal in does the car still move forward? Never heard of adjusting the PP, but ive never messed w/ an ls7.

kubus_stroinski

iTrader: (1)

Yes, it moves quite a lot.

I could shift the car into first when it was on and up on the hoist (so the wheels were of the ground). As soon as I slid it into gear, the wheels would begin to spin without taking my foot off of the clutch pedal

I cant get it into gear with the car on sitting still but when I start the car with my foot on the clutch in first gear, as soon as it turns over, the car just starts to go

HellOnWeelz

iTrader: (1)

I recently went to this clutch and had the same problem. No clutch disengagement when the pressure plate was totally at the CCW position. The car would move as I put pressure on the shifter but it wouldn't engage. I went through some huge hassle trying to get this right. Transmission has been out three times, I bled the system every which way I could think of and no help. I finally messed with the pressure plate adjustment and was able to get it to disengage by turning it to about 1/4" from the full CCW position. It will spring all the way clockwise if you are not careful pressing the springs. However, now the clutch slips. I don't think expelling air would help the slipping, but I thought that a more full engagement would help the pressure plate adjust to its correct state. So I re-bled with a mity-vac from the reservoir plus a 2 man bleed combination. Now the pedal feels a little better but I haven't had a chance to see if it still slips. (It snowed last night so I'm driving the truck today). I was really surprised at how much air was in the system after a good bench bleed+2 man bleed. I'm guessing it will still slip because I can't see how the pressure plate adjustment would go to a tighter position on its own.

So I'm thinking that if you don't have really good travel on the springs because of the air in the system, the pressure plate won't self adjust and the pedal stays soft with no disengagement. Lots of people have seen an improvement after a few hundred miles and I'm guessing that as more hydraulic fluid is moved, over time the clutch disengages more and allows the adjuster to move. But, I don't have a good feel for which direction the pressure plate adjustment moves the pedal engagement point. I am definitely guessing though.

I know this is not a solution but maybe you can get more ideas. I'm getting good at pulling the trans though.. thank God for the two post lift. Good luck... you're not alone.

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

I have the LS7 clutch in my 2000 SS and I never messed with anything on the pressure plate. Im pretty sure alot of other members on the board with the LS7 never adjusted anything either. The LS7 clutch was fine for the first 10k miles, now my pressure plate wont release at high rpms. So now Im switching to a spec 3+.

Jon5212

iTrader: (2)

^^^ You're problem is hydraulics... not the clutch itself. As far as adjusting someting on the PP on an LS7 I didn't do that either... just got mine in and its fine.

kubus_stroinski

iTrader: (1)

So you guys are suggesting I turn the adjustment back?

BarneyMobile

iTrader: (4)

I replaced my hydraulics so that kinda rules them out? Theres a TSB for LS7 pressure plates failing to release at high rpm.

ski23

iTrader: (21)

Ls7/ls2 setup here in my 01 SS. I have about 2000 miles on it and never adjusted anything. slapped it in, threw a new slave in, bled the **** out of it and drove it soft for about 500 miles. clutch did engage right off the floor for about 250 miles for me and now it feels like a stock clutch with more grab.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

Well for one, in a standard LS1/T56 combo install you should NOT do any adjustments. It bolts right in perfectly from the dealer. All you need is the following.

LS7 pressure plate
LS7 disc
LS2 flywheel
New slave
New pilot
New master is optional

Thats it. Just pull the stocker, line up bolt holes & bolt in new clutch. Reinstall trans & bleed. Thats all. No adjustments, no shims none of that crap.

Now I cannot vouch for this procedure being the same on a LS2 car cause I have no experience with those. But we installed mine in the dark w/droplights in my buddies driveway & I haven't had a single issue.

SladeX

There is no need to adjust ANYTHING on the LS7 clutch when installing in a f-body vehicle.

When I did mine, I took it out of the box, maybe cleaned the pressure plate and flywheel with break cleaner and installed it as is. Replaced the slave, master and pilot bearing but it went in clean without a hitch. Did like most everyone else, right off the floor.

I suggest you undo what you did to the clutch and try again with a good bleed of the hydraulics.

HellOnWeelz

iTrader: (1)

I'm in agreement with you now. Mine is still slipping with that small amount of adjustment I put on it. I guess I just didn't have the hydraulics bled enough to get the clutch to disengage. Funny though, when I put the SPEC 3 in a couple of years ago, it only took me 15 min to get it bled and it worked fine right away. This one has been a real PITA.

BIG_MIKE2005

iTrader: (116)

It took me about 30 minutes with a Mityvac to bleed mine from the top all by myself.

DarkJuggalo

iTrader: (6)

it took me calling don, to get my new master/slave and bled

billyb

iTrader: (15)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-transmission/894740-adj-pressure-plate.html

900hpSS

first of all your clutch is not releasing all the way.

Second. That spring is a self adjustment so it is simple you just set it all the way counter clockwise and forget it. it will adjust the first time you push the pedal in and when ever it needs to, do to clutch wear. it sounds like you have air in the lines. make sure they are bled properly and all the air is out of them. Then you clutch should release all the way.

kubus_stroinski

iTrader: (1)

Im assuming that the T56 that goes in the Camaro/Trans Am doesnt have an inspection plate

gn4life

iTrader: (3)

TTT
Having the same exact problems!!!!!! MY CAR HAS BEEN AT THE TRANS SHOP FOR OVER 2 weeks now!!!! Replaced all hydralics with new GM parts
(Slave,TOB,Master w drill mod and heat wrap).Even put 1/8 shim on slave...
Brand New Scoggin Dickey ls7 Clutch kit.

-Have plenty of good strong peddle feels stock.

-BLED TO DEATH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-Wont shift into any gear at idle!!!! AS SOON AS U PUT ANY PRESSURE ON THE STICK TO PUT IN GEAR WITH CLUTCH PRESSED IT ROLLS FOWARD A GREAT DEAL!!!!

-Shifts well while moving with dissengagment problems at times while trying to downshift.

Need advice other than Bleed it or shim it!!!!

What was the fix to these problems??????
Some are saying adjust the pressure plate others are saying do not....
Somebody with the exact same common problem please post their fix!!!!
Need help cause this trans bill is going to be astronomical
Thanks in advance...

Omec

iTrader: (2)

dude im in the same friggin boat!!!!! same problem. i just put in an ls7 set up w/ new hydrolics and damned if i can get it to disengage. ive bled it to hell as well, various ways. only way i havnt done it is use the motive bleeder and dont realy want to buy it and have it not fix the problem. i realy hope someone chimes in because im starting to lose it. this swap is killing me! i wonder if its just air in the system. i was thinking i need to shim but seeing you have done that and have the same problem im not so sure. my pedal feels mint too. i dont get it! WTF!

HellOnWeelz

iTrader: (1)

I had the exact same problems. I had originally adjusted the press plate to get the clutch to disengage. But then I ended up bleeding and bleeding and bleeding...both with a mity vac from the reservior and through the normal bleed screw. Once I got some pedal I was able to drive it but I had to re set the pressure plate back as far as it would go to keep it from slipping at speed. So I would say that unless the clutch is delivered unadjusted leave it alone. I wasn't able to get full engagement when my adjustment wasn't all the way CCW like it says on the procedure. If you haven't tried a mity vac from the reservoir, try it. I saw air bubbles for days even after bleeding forever. I didn't have any problem with the SPEC 3, but there really isn't any reason to have problems bleeding it between different clutches. I just think the hydraulics can be flaky about bleeding. Also, I haven't heard of anyone using a shim. I didn't need one in the end.

I know what you are going through, I had my trans out 4 times trying to get it right and looking back I think it was just trapped air. Good luck.