Bench bleeding would be the absolute best way. You could ensure that you got all the air out that way.

If this is done on the bench I would take the steel braided hydraulic line that goes from the master to the slave and hook some of the rubber line that comes with the Mity Vac over the end that would normally go in the Master. Sort of like the Slave Sim I made in the write up, but using the steel braided hydraulic line. Then connect your sim up to the slave. Crack the slaves bleeder valve and submerge the end of it in brake fluid, similarly to how I submerged the resevior tube. Then just suck the brake fuild through the mity vac till there's no more air.

Assuming the more likely scenerio, that your slave is already installed in your car. Then the old method of having a friend crack the slave's bleeder valve while you push down on the clutch pedal and then close the bleeder valve before your foot reaches the floor is probably the best method.

If by chance you don't get the slave completely bled and the Master Cylinder shakes those bubbles loose and they come up the line to mess with the Master Cylinder's function, don't sweat it. Just like I described in one of my last posts, you can do step three in my write up to the Master while it's in the car. Scan back and You'll see the post where I describe that I still had a little pedal play and repeating step three fixed that.

I hope this helps you out. If you have anymore questions don't hesitate to ask.

Mike

<small>[ April 20, 2003, 06:26 PM: Message edited by: buschman ]</small>

 

Look's like Tracer X got a bad master <img border="0" title="" alt="[Frown]" src="gr_sad.gif" /> We did everything many times then felt great for a little while.After driving the master would go 1/2 way before pressure.Bring back and do part 3,get lots of air out,drive car and goes to crap again <img border="0" title="" alt="[Mad]" src="gr_images/icons/mad.gif" /> Put stock in and has been fine.

Mine has been working very good <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

 

Wow! Looks like Slowhawk beat me to the post! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> Well, I talked to Thunder Racing today and they are going to overnight me a new master! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> So we will be trying this agin tomorrow or Wed night. I'll keep you guys posted, if Slowhawk doesn't beat me to it! <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

 

I can shift WOT. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> The system was full of air. It has never been this smooth before. When I got the system back in the car I noticed the steel braided line had a down turn in it. I removed the heat shield and moved the line so that it was pointing up the whole way with no down turns. I banged on the connection from the slave to the steel line with the might vac hooked up and more air came out. I could not get any air out of the slave with the down turn in the line. It also helped to jack the front of the car up as high as possible. More air came out after bench bleeding when I did both of these steps.

Buschman I noticed you said when bleeding the slave while it was in the car you need to push the pedal down with the valve open but not to the floor. That was probably another problem of mine. I am guessing that when you push it to the floor you are letting air back in?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by black99SS:
<strong> I am guessing that when you push it to the floor you are letting air back in? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Yeah if the fluid isn't flowing out then you give the air a chance to creep back in.

Mike

 

Ok, we installed the new Master. This one was the new threaded style. We bled it using the write up. So far so good. There is fairly no pedal play. I'm taking it to the track tomorrow. So I'll let you guys know how it hold up. Thanks!

 

Hey Paul, that's weird, they sent you an adjustable master for free? You think if I call 'em up they'll do the same for me, cuz I need to get one now cuz i'm having problems with the gm updated master, I have like no pedal pressure and it's slightly grinding before going into gears cuz I guess it's not fully engaging! And there's nothing wrong with the clutch, cuz it was just checked while my tranny was out being built up, so it's gotta be the master!

 

Finally stopped procrastinating and got around to doing this to my new MC today. I have a SPEC III waiting to go in (wanted to have my 3.73's installed first, before the clutch...finaly got the gears in so it's the SPEC next...but I digress *L*).

Anyway, I'd already done the drill mod so I knew there'd be at least some air inside but I could not believe how much there really was in that thing! I must have done step 1 and 2 20 times or more, just over and over and over and there'd still be air bubbles coming out! They gradually got smaller and fewer, but DAMN I must have wasted a couple hours in total *L* And then even step 3 pulled a few more out!

REAL glad I did this before getting the whole shebang - new MC, slave, and clutch installed. Can't wait to enjoy the results!

Thanks again for the great write-up!

My jury-rigged setup from today *L*

 

Awesome setup Bill. Let us know how everything works out for you.

Mike

 

Just got the SPEC III ceramic installed Mike and everything (so far, knock on wood *L*) is PERFECT!!!

 

This is awesome info. I saved it so I can use it

BUT the one thing to ALWAYS remember (maybe why some of you find more air in your system!!) NEVER reuse the fluid that you pull out. Once you pour it into something or when it drains out, it becomes airiated (sp?) That is where you "new" air bubbles are from. The air in the bubbles collects and forms new pockets or air. So get alot of break fluid and just throw away what you use to do this

 

Is there a problem with the links in this thread? I cant open them and I am into bleading the McLeod master cylinder in my car.

 

yeah, they're from 2003 giga brain.

imagine making an account to first post necro a 17 year old thread

 

Thank`s for the warm velcome when joining this forum.

 

Do you have to shim the slave cylinder on a stock clutch

 

The answer is: Measure and find out. Tick makes slave cylinder shims just for this purpose. Also, it's totally okay to just make your own new thread when wanting to ask a question. Resurrecting threads old enough to drink legally is generally frowned upon.