My camera phone didn't work too well taking pics under the dash, but here's a write up of what I did. I'll take a pic of the old spring and how I placed the vice grip later when I get the chance. I'm writing this guide because I know a lot of people have given up on reinstalling these springs, but with the method I figured out, it'll take longer to disconnect the panels and wires than it will to install the spring. It'll also save you shoulder pain, thumb pain and various misc cuts the under panels love to give when moving underneath the dash in a tight space. Also note if you have gorilla hands, you are screwed. I'm 5'11 and a good 225lbs so suffice to say if you are around that height and not palming basketballs with 1 hand, you should have enough space to work with.

Dealer has the parts for the bushing, special order though, but even where I live, I was able to find a dealer within an hours drive that stocked the bushings.
Part Numbers

Clutch Return Spring 10278874
Plastic Bushing 14046812

Tools:
Flathead screwdriver
Phillips screwdriver
7 mm socket (socket wrench or driver handle adapter)
Small vice grip
Some lubricating grease

Step 1

Move front seat all the way back, lower the front portion as much as possible, put the back down too if you have long legs and may need that angle above the chair.

Step 2

Remove the lower dash. It has 2 7mm bolts at the rear of the panel and 2 phillips closer to the driver. The Trunk Release can be disconnected from the switch with the flathead or your nail to release the lock plastic. The wires are small and thin, don't let the panel dangle by the wires.

Step 3

Remove the kick panel. This is held by 2 plastic tabs, you can wedge the flathead screwdriver to pry it out without really wrecking them. If you do mess them up, the HELP isle at Autozone should have similar replacements. Once both are removed, the panel can be pulled out. It may take a bit of maneuvering but it'll come out.

Step 4

Disconnect the wires going to the brake switch and clutch release. It will give you a more clear view of the spring. (optional yet recommended) You can remove the brake light switch itself by unscrewing it, make a mental note of how screwed in it was else you may find your brake light NOT activating until you've pressed it in significantly.

Step 5

Remove the clutch release switch. This can be done with the flathead screwdriver. Simply press on the tabs and pull. It's really wedged in, but it'll come out with patience.

Step 6

Disconnect the clutch pedal from the master. This is done by simply using the flathead to remove the lock fastener. Just pry a little and push with your hand, it'll come right out. Rotate it to see just how it's held in. Once the fastener is removed the master can be tugged on to the side to release the pedal.

Step 7

Remove the old spring but KEEP the plastic pieces or bushings. Lube them up a bit with the grease and reinsert into the upper hinge area above the pedal. Grease the plastic bushing on the top of the pedal as well as this will make reinstall a lot easier too.

Step 8

This is the tricky part. You will use the vice grips and lock on HARD onto the middle of the springs but to the left of the middle part. The middle part will go into the top of the pedal so you can grip it with the vice grip. You need to insert the spring into the hinge with the vice grip attached. That part shouldn't be difficult. Simply place one arm into the hinge, then with your other hand you can push on the spring to get the other into the other hinge. The vice grip will let you keep the spring stable while you are getting it into the hinges.

The shape of the spring is like a W with the middle part connecting to the top of the clutch pedal, and the outer parts going onto the hinge. What you want is that when the spring is installed, the outer parts of the spring is below and the part that connects to the pedal above that part. The coils of the spring will face towards the rear of the car. So to note, the hinge part of the spring will be facing down and the top part of the spring, the middle will be facing up towards the top of the car with the coils directed to the back. Check pic to see how it is oriented.



Step 9

The reason you disconnected the pedal from the master and removed the clutch release switch is because you NEED to be able to push the pedal farther back towards the rear of the car. You pull straight down on the vice grip compressing the spring while with your other hand, you pull back on the pedal so the spring slips into the top of the pedal. Once it's in you release the vice grips and the pedal should be right where it should be.

Step 10

Reconnect the master, don't forget the lock fastener!. Reconnect the wires, reinstall the switches in the relative positions as before. Don't forget that you probably disconnected the brake light, the cruise control release and the clutch return to get a clear view. Before putting the kick panels back on, test the brake light that it comes on just after some pressure on the brakes. Not after you've almost given it full pressure. Also ensure that the clutch release is still working, attempt to start the car (NOT IN GEAR!) but don't press on the clutch. If it starts, you didn't set the switch correctly. Install the kick panels, don't forget the trunk release switch.

Step 11

Reset driver's seat, drive car, test cruise control, make sure the lights work and enjoy.

 

I lost the plastic part on mine and the local GM dealer doesnt even show it on there parts list.. I have broke like 3 of the things

could you take a pic of the spring installed? I think I have been putting them in the right way but they seem to bind up no matter what.

Great write up

 

Looks like I have been putting mine in wrong.. drats! haha I will have to try again now.

 

It's tricky to figure out how it's supposed to be installed. On my original spring when I was dumb enough to remove a working spring, I was frustrated for hours trying to understand how to put it in. Since that broke and had to do it again, I mentally noted how the broken spring was installed and oriented the new spring accordingly. The vice grip method came to me after an hour of being under the dash and my thumb feeling like I had hammered it. Without any leverage, trying to compress the spring with just a few digits on it is next to impossible. The vice grip is necessary.

 

I pulled that spring off about 2 weeks ago when I did my master cylinder. With the spring in my pedal motion was just not smooth at all. Now I have a very constant smooth pedal feel. My recommendation, leave it off.

 

With it off there's extra play in the pedal at the top. I tried driving with it off and I didn't like it. What I discovered is that you end up relying on your clutch release switch for tension on the pedal at the top. If you have an adjustable master, you could probably get it into a decent spot where that doesn't happen.

 

I noticed my spring was off, and yeah there is excessive play at the top of the travel. Not sure how long the spring has been off, figure ill try this...

Also I would like to see a picture of the spring installed if you get the chance.

 

Broke mine and never looked back. I heard they break all the time so I just never worried about...

 

Slade

You are the clutch return spring master. I just did the install today. I struggled with this spring for 2 hours until I read your post. Worked like a charm. Had it in within 10 minutes, not counting parts removal. I was totally confused until reading the post. I did'nt even know which way the spring faced.

I had to buy a 4" needle nose vise grips, and it worked just like you posted. I did have to put another vise grip on the end of the 4" grip in order to pull the spring down once I had the spring securly with the small grips. There was not enough room to get a good grip on the small vise alone.

Taking off the brake light switch did help. It gave just enough room to see the spring as it engaged in the pedal. Removing the left kick panel gave about 1-2" more elbow room. That helped too.

Great post!! This is the only info on the net that helped with this spring.

Thanks, Mark