Stuck in fourth? HELP!?!?
Now what could have caused this? What is wrong with this crappy transmission? I just had third gear and the syncro replaced a couple months ago. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Here are some pictures.
http://www.akmcables.com/T56-1.jpg
This is the 4th gear assembly. Input shaft, a synchro, the 3-4 slider assembly, and a shift fork.
This is it assembled:
http://www.akmcables.com/T56-2.jpg
The slider gear moves back and forth to select 3rd or 4th. In the position above, it's in neutral.
Here is 4th gear engaged.
http://www.akmcables.com/T56-3.jpg
Note the black plastic pads on the shift fork. It's pretty common to see those broken. You can bend this aluminum fork when attempting to disengage the gear when it's stuck.
Now, here's the culprit. These little POS slider keys. They help keep the synchro in place, but they do like to pop out. Note this one - is popped out (I made it do that).
http://www.akmcables.com/T56-4.jpg
And finally, here are the little evil bastards, along with their springs that hold them in the slider gears.
http://www.akmcables.com/T56-5.jpg
Hope that helps.
Andrew
(you could shift into 2nd, but could not pull the shifter out of this gear) I swapped the syncro out and all was well. Jason
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My personal least favorite part is the outside ring of the slider gear itself. They could've built that out of a harder metal. Those teeth get chewed up too easily, and at $125-$150 a pop to replace, they aren't cheap. And you can't buy just the ring, you have to buy the whole gear.
On my ST-10 (in the 79Z), the slider rings are $38 each, and the *entire* rebuild kit, including all bearings, races, synchros, gaskets, seals, new countershaft, etc was $150. But it was a bit tougher to rebuild. There were 88 needle bearings on the countershaft that you had to insert... one at a time... And hope they didn't fall out of the hole...
-Anderw
needle bearings12523207 3-4 Shift Fork
12523078 3/4 Synchronizer Assembly
12523186 3rd Gear Blocker Ring
12523077 3rd Speed Gear
I have done this for cars under warrenty and have never seen the cars in for the problem again, if you get your trans redone you should replace the 3-4 shift fork even if you don't have problems shifting. the new fork is new and does not lok like the pictures poted here. I don't have pics of the new fork or i would upload them. GM says the problem starts cause the fork bends. the trans them selfs are very strong but when the fork is bent 4th gear is engaded to far and 3rd gear is not enouf. thats what causes the problem. this is the only weak area I have found with these transmissions and wish you all well.
Ken
when they rebuilt your trans did they replace the 3-4 shift fork?. It seams to be a weak point of the MM6 trans.
Ken
.always was a fan of automatics anyway more consistant and no where near the hassle. but don't take my word for it here's a link to there web sight, and for those intrested they include and pdf for rebuilding the trans
it is the same thing you get when you buy it on ebay. and its free web page
good luck
I don't have a problem with that or the torqe differance but the problem are not from the gears blowing up. it's from shifter/ syncro problem, thease part are alu. and brass. so titanium is not need it a stock or slightly beefed up F body.
I've got guys with stock cars still under warrenty beating the crap out of these syncros and bending shift forks. but not braking, chipping or cracking gears.
Ken
You can change the 'torque rating' of a transmission simply by changing the cut of the gear and the gear ratio itself. No need to change the metal. The 1993 F-body T56 had a lower torque rating than the 1994+, because of the different gearing. Not because of component strength.
AFAIK the only major differences are the steel 3-4 shift fork, and the carbon fiber synchro pad material. The input shaft and main shaft are likely different materials (and a different cut), but nothing is titanium from anything I've ever seen, heard, or read.
And titanium isn't necessarily stronger than a good steel. It's just lighter. It's used in valvetrain components to reduce weight. Not for strength. In fact, titanium valves are a bit softer than their stainless steel counterparts.
So again, sounds like a bunch of hear-say "I know a guy who told me" type info being passed around here. Post up facts, not "I think".
-Andrew


