TEASER THREAD: Tick Performance's Revolutionary NEW Adjustable Master Cylinder
08-20-2008, 08:04 AM
#61
Actually, I have never had any problems with pedal sticking or high rpm shifts. My issue is that since I have had the new Spec 3+, the pedal engages closer to the floor and I am constantly banging on the gears during quick shifts at the track. From what I gather the McCleod adj MC was the only cure. Will your new setup help me with this? Also, before new clutch, I did the anti-venom mod and had no problems with shifts. Now after clutch, the 3rd to 4th shift is really notchy and takes a lot of effort. I was thinking of doing the MGW shifter to cure this. I can live with pedal engaging where it is at, but the shifting thing has got to be changed. Thoughts?
08-20-2008, 01:42 PM
#62
Haveing a more complete release will help your issues. If the pedal is engaging close to the floor, thats deffinately a sign that the pressure plate just isn't getting a proper release. At high rpms or quick shifts it really shows up more. Also, a shift that takes a lot of effort is creating a lot of wear for the blockers and fork pads.
08-21-2008, 05:45 AM
#63
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Since their creation, the clutch hydraulic system has plagued these LSx F-Bodies and Corvettes. Shifting quickly at high RPM is extremely hard (in some cases even impossible) especially when using a beefy aftermarket clutch. For years the industry has been using band-aids to ease these problems, but nobody has actually FIXED these problems.
VERY soon, Tick Performance will be changing that.
By combining our expertise with expert tuner and mechanical engineer Alvin Anderson (of PCMForLess) as well as employing a few concepts used by multiple NASCAR teams here in the Mooresville area, Tick Performance has developed an adjustable master cylinder that will effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past.
VERY soon, Tick Performance will be changing that.
By combining our expertise with expert tuner and mechanical engineer Alvin Anderson (of PCMForLess) as well as employing a few concepts used by multiple NASCAR teams here in the Mooresville area, Tick Performance has developed an adjustable master cylinder that will effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past.
^ is from the original post.
Tick Performance, the first two posts, to me, felt like a lot of fluff. I've got nothing against you guys, just curious.
Your clutch master cylinder seems very promising, but you said it will, "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past."
I have to say, those are big shoes to fill.
I have a 2002 6spd Camaro SS which is a full bolt-on car. I've noticed over time that there is a difference between basically stock cars like the one mentioned in post #61 and mine. It seems that long tube headers(even the ceramic coated ones like what I've got) heat up the clutch fluid lines and boil the fluid when we get on it. I have my line wrapped and I've got all new hydraulics. I have a mcleod adj master cylinder which hasn't failed me yet, along with a stock clutch. The mcleod is a decent piece but it didn't , "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past." I did the drill mod on my line, but it seems like I still have a problem with the clutch engaging fast enough seldomly. When I have my foot off the clutch pedal I expect it to be engaged 100% and no less.
Your videos seem pretty impressive, but I don't think I want to spend $300 on a part that hasn't even recieved a reputation yet. No offense. I actually hope your adjustable master cylinder does everything you say it will do because I need a fix to my problems.
08-21-2008, 08:27 AM
#65
^ is from the original post.
Tick Performance, the first two posts, to me, felt like a lot of fluff. I've got nothing against you guys, just curious.
Your clutch master cylinder seems very promising, but you said it will, "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past."
I have to say, those are big shoes to fill.
I have a 2002 6spd Camaro SS which is a full bolt-on car. I've noticed over time that there is a difference between basically stock cars like the one mentioned in post #61 and mine. It seems that long tube headers(even the ceramic coated ones like what I've got) heat up the clutch fluid lines and boil the fluid when we get on it. I have my line wrapped and I've got all new hydraulics. I have a mcleod adj master cylinder which hasn't failed me yet, along with a stock clutch. The mcleod is a decent piece but it didn't , "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past." I did the drill mod on my line, but it seems like I still have a problem with the clutch engaging fast enough seldomly. When I have my foot off the clutch pedal I expect it to be engaged 100% and no less.
Your videos seem pretty impressive, but I don't think I want to spend $300 on a part that hasn't even recieved a reputation yet. No offense. I actually hope your adjustable master cylinder does everything you say it will do because I need a fix to my problems.
Tick Performance, the first two posts, to me, felt like a lot of fluff. I've got nothing against you guys, just curious.
Your clutch master cylinder seems very promising, but you said it will, "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past."
I have to say, those are big shoes to fill.
I have a 2002 6spd Camaro SS which is a full bolt-on car. I've noticed over time that there is a difference between basically stock cars like the one mentioned in post #61 and mine. It seems that long tube headers(even the ceramic coated ones like what I've got) heat up the clutch fluid lines and boil the fluid when we get on it. I have my line wrapped and I've got all new hydraulics. I have a mcleod adj master cylinder which hasn't failed me yet, along with a stock clutch. The mcleod is a decent piece but it didn't , "effectively and reliably solve all of the problems that have plagued these cars in the past." I did the drill mod on my line, but it seems like I still have a problem with the clutch engaging fast enough seldomly. When I have my foot off the clutch pedal I expect it to be engaged 100% and no less.
Your videos seem pretty impressive, but I don't think I want to spend $300 on a part that hasn't even recieved a reputation yet. No offense. I actually hope your adjustable master cylinder does everything you say it will do because I need a fix to my problems.
I'm not convinced that wrapping the line due to "header heat" really has anything to do with the dissengagement issues anyway. I've probably wrapped a dozen lines on cars that had dissengagment issues and have yet to see one that it made an improvement to. I've even seen lines on cars that literally rubbed against the header until it had a hole in it, but the clutch still dissengaged until all the fluid poured out.
What type of clutch are you using? If you're having problems with the clutch engaging 100% as soon as the pedal is dropped, you may be experiencing some slip. IMO, if anything heats the clutch fluid a slipping clutch will do it.
The issue that we see most often is dissengagement at high rpms and our cylinder does fix that. With many aftermarket clutches, shifting becomes almost imposible in the 6000 rpm plus range. Its common sense to think that if the clutch isn't getting a complete release, then obviously more fluid needs to be moved in order to correct the problem.
We're taking the corvette to the track this afternoon for a few passes. The owner will be driving it this time. I have cheap DOT 3 fluid in there and the line isn't wrapped with anything. It has a gm slave, along with the Tex clutch. It has cam, headers, and longtubes and is making about 450 rwhp. Hopefully we'll get a couple more videos to post up.
08-21-2008, 08:33 AM
#66
My offer still stands if you need another test car. It is finished at Williams Performance and I can't get it until Saturday afternoon. It is supercharged with 551 rwhp if you need a higher hp car
!
!
08-21-2008, 10:16 AM
#67
They put one in my car last night.. It is a 2001 Z06, Heads, Cam car with a stock LS6 clutch, LS6 hydrolics (new as of last year)
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
08-21-2008, 11:39 AM
#68
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No offense taken, you certainly don't have to buy one. Overall the Mcleod is a pretty good piece, we just finally got tired of waiting for it to be available again.
I'm not convinced that wrapping the line due to "header heat" really has anything to do with the dissengagement issues anyway. I've probably wrapped a dozen lines on cars that had dissengagment issues and have yet to see one that it made an improvement to. I've even seen lines on cars that literally rubbed against the header until it had a hole in it, but the clutch still dissengaged until all the fluid poured out.
What type of clutch are you using? If you're having problems with the clutch engaging 100% as soon as the pedal is dropped, you may be experiencing some slip. IMO, if anything heats the clutch fluid a slipping clutch will do it.
The issue that we see most often is dissengagement at high rpms and our cylinder does fix that. With many aftermarket clutches, shifting becomes almost imposible in the 6000 rpm plus range. Its common sense to think that if the clutch isn't getting a complete release, then obviously more fluid needs to be moved in order to correct the problem.
We're taking the corvette to the track this afternoon for a few passes. The owner will be driving it this time. I have cheap DOT 3 fluid in there and the line isn't wrapped with anything. It has a gm slave, along with the Tex clutch. It has cam, headers, and longtubes and is making about 450 rwhp. Hopefully we'll get a couple more videos to post up.
I'm not convinced that wrapping the line due to "header heat" really has anything to do with the dissengagement issues anyway. I've probably wrapped a dozen lines on cars that had dissengagment issues and have yet to see one that it made an improvement to. I've even seen lines on cars that literally rubbed against the header until it had a hole in it, but the clutch still dissengaged until all the fluid poured out.
What type of clutch are you using? If you're having problems with the clutch engaging 100% as soon as the pedal is dropped, you may be experiencing some slip. IMO, if anything heats the clutch fluid a slipping clutch will do it.
The issue that we see most often is dissengagement at high rpms and our cylinder does fix that. With many aftermarket clutches, shifting becomes almost imposible in the 6000 rpm plus range. Its common sense to think that if the clutch isn't getting a complete release, then obviously more fluid needs to be moved in order to correct the problem.
We're taking the corvette to the track this afternoon for a few passes. The owner will be driving it this time. I have cheap DOT 3 fluid in there and the line isn't wrapped with anything. It has a gm slave, along with the Tex clutch. It has cam, headers, and longtubes and is making about 450 rwhp. Hopefully we'll get a couple more videos to post up.
I have a stock clutch and slave(about a year old clutch and 2 month old slave) the master(mcleod) is about 6-8 months old. I do think I get slipping when I speed shift and power shift. BTW I don't power shift at wot either... I'm starting to think my full bolt-on power is too much for the stock clutch with powerful shifts... when it is fully engaged it just pulls strong and no slip. Some times If I tach it out, clutch it while partially still in the pedal, jump off the clutch it will slip which sucks.
Also sometimes say if I'm sitting still, I'll rev it up pretty high then let the tach fall back down and try to put it into gear and its pretty difficult to get into gear. Otherwise it's pretty easy as far as the revving up goes. I think the heat from my headers are the reason. Also not too long ago I took all my wrapping off my line and it got real bad so I put it back on. My heat wrap stays. Maybe vettes with long tubes are different than fbodies with them. I bet the vette flows more air under the car easier to keep things cooler. Maybe not.
08-21-2008, 12:15 PM
#70
They put one in my car last night.. It is a 2001 Z06, Heads, Cam car with a stock LS6 clutch, LS6 hydrolics (new as of last year)
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
08-21-2008, 12:39 PM
#71
They put one in my car last night.. It is a 2001 Z06, Heads, Cam car with a stock LS6 clutch, LS6 hydrolics (new as of last year)
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
Two words HOLY SH*T!!!
This thing is absoulutely incredible. Pedal effort is increased ever so slightly but now the car shift I mean night and day different than the stock setup. Before it was extremely notchy and hard to get in gear even at a stop. Now you can put it in gear with a pinky finger.
As far as wide open... Before I couldn't powershift or even shift quickly with this car.. I would get second gear lock out and even if I slowed down and pumped the clutch it wouldn't go into gear. Now all you have to do is tap the clutch and she flys right into the next gear.
This is an awesome mod... Very little to no modification to the car and you can't tell its even in the car once it is installed..
Shifting is awful.
Can't wait to get one of these!
08-21-2008, 01:23 PM
#72
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08-21-2008, 01:27 PM
#73
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Even on my last bolt on Vette with the stock shifter I couldn't find gears like I can now with an extra 125rwhp. Night is Day difference, its really hard to describe it in words how much it cleaned up the feel.
08-21-2008, 03:11 PM
#74
What makes your mc better than mcleod's besides availability?
I have a stock clutch and slave(about a year old clutch and 2 month old slave) the master(mcleod) is about 6-8 months old. I do think I get slipping when I speed shift and power shift. BTW I don't power shift at wot either... I'm starting to think my full bolt-on power is too much for the stock clutch with powerful shifts... when it is fully engaged it just pulls strong and no slip. Some times If I tach it out, clutch it while partially still in the pedal, jump off the clutch it will slip which sucks.
Also sometimes say if I'm sitting still, I'll rev it up pretty high then let the tach fall back down and try to put it into gear and its pretty difficult to get into gear. Otherwise it's pretty easy as far as the revving up goes. I think the heat from my headers are the reason. Also not too long ago I took all my wrapping off my line and it got real bad so I put it back on. My heat wrap stays. Maybe vettes with long tubes are different than fbodies with them. I bet the vette flows more air under the car easier to keep things cooler. Maybe not.
I have a stock clutch and slave(about a year old clutch and 2 month old slave) the master(mcleod) is about 6-8 months old. I do think I get slipping when I speed shift and power shift. BTW I don't power shift at wot either... I'm starting to think my full bolt-on power is too much for the stock clutch with powerful shifts... when it is fully engaged it just pulls strong and no slip. Some times If I tach it out, clutch it while partially still in the pedal, jump off the clutch it will slip which sucks.
Also sometimes say if I'm sitting still, I'll rev it up pretty high then let the tach fall back down and try to put it into gear and its pretty difficult to get into gear. Otherwise it's pretty easy as far as the revving up goes. I think the heat from my headers are the reason. Also not too long ago I took all my wrapping off my line and it got real bad so I put it back on. My heat wrap stays. Maybe vettes with long tubes are different than fbodies with them. I bet the vette flows more air under the car easier to keep things cooler. Maybe not.
There is a slight bore size difference, but I don't really know that one would be better than the other and they are both larger than stock. A larger bore will allow a wider range of adjustment at the expense of a little extra pedal effort. Right now the main thing that makes ours better is availability.
If theres ever a problem with ours that can't be solved by a rebuild, our cylinder will be available seperately for much less than the price of the kit. I doubt thats an option with the Mcleod since its a custom made cylinder.
08-21-2008, 03:20 PM
#75
Quick question on the initial adjustment...
Do you just set this new one to the same length as the stock master and adjust from there, or do you need to set it a little shorter since it will push more fluid? I'm assuming just set it to the stock length, but who knows...I just don't want to over extend my slave cylinder. That would make the whole job a little more involved...I hate removing my transmission to get to the slave.
Do you just set this new one to the same length as the stock master and adjust from there, or do you need to set it a little shorter since it will push more fluid? I'm assuming just set it to the stock length, but who knows...I just don't want to over extend my slave cylinder. That would make the whole job a little more involved...I hate removing my transmission to get to the slave.
08-21-2008, 11:54 PM
#77
Just got back from the track.. Only missed one gear out of like 7 runs and I think it was my fault. Before almost every run would be aborted do to it not wanting to shift. The other car out there with this master also did fantastic.
08-22-2008, 08:19 AM
#78
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Reporting back from my first track outing:
Before my car wouldn't shift at all at high rpms, when I say at all I literally mean it was impossible to shift above around 5k. Last night I missed 3rd once because I was still nervous, after that it hit every gear like a champ. This is by far the mod that made my car worth keeping and more worthwhile than any power mod I've done. Kudos to Jonathan and Alvin for coming up with a solution THAT WORKS!
Before my car wouldn't shift at all at high rpms, when I say at all I literally mean it was impossible to shift above around 5k. Last night I missed 3rd once because I was still nervous, after that it hit every gear like a champ. This is by far the mod that made my car worth keeping and more worthwhile than any power mod I've done. Kudos to Jonathan and Alvin for coming up with a solution THAT WORKS!
08-22-2008, 08:34 AM
#79
Quick question on the initial adjustment...
Do you just set this new one to the same length as the stock master and adjust from there, or do you need to set it a little shorter since it will push more fluid? I'm assuming just set it to the stock length, but who knows...I just don't want to over extend my slave cylinder. That would make the whole job a little more involved...I hate removing my transmission to get to the slave.
Do you just set this new one to the same length as the stock master and adjust from there, or do you need to set it a little shorter since it will push more fluid? I'm assuming just set it to the stock length, but who knows...I just don't want to over extend my slave cylinder. That would make the whole job a little more involved...I hate removing my transmission to get to the slave.
IMO, that is why the Ram unit or modifying a stock cylinder is useless when dealing with release problems. Sure, you can preload the pressure plate a bit making the clutch dissengage more "up top" but if you pay close atention you will see that the slave bottoms internally before it reaches the true stop for the pedal. It never really changes the amount of release than can be achieved, just the engagement location under normal driving conditions.