TEASER THREAD: Tick Performance's Revolutionary NEW Adjustable Master Cylinder
#101
Internet Mechanic
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
We should have vette kits ready to go out by the middle of the week. F-body kits are probably a week away due to the custom bracket.
We've already got quite a few guys waiting for them, so if you want to place an order just give us a call and we'll get your name and info on the list.
We've already got quite a few guys waiting for them, so if you want to place an order just give us a call and we'll get your name and info on the list.
![Chug! Chug! Chug!](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_chug.gif)
#103
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (17)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wish I knew if it would fit on my swap car... The stock body master seems to be tighter than it is on a 4th gen... I can probably tell better once the pictures of the completed f-body kit are posted...assuming they will be.
Could we possibly get a picture of your M/C with a stock style laying next to it? Like a RAM or GM unit...?
J.
Could we possibly get a picture of your M/C with a stock style laying next to it? Like a RAM or GM unit...?
J.
#104
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wish I knew if it would fit on my swap car... The stock body master seems to be tighter than it is on a 4th gen... I can probably tell better once the pictures of the completed f-body kit are posted...assuming they will be.
Could we possibly get a picture of your M/C with a stock style laying next to it? Like a RAM or GM unit...?
J.
Could we possibly get a picture of your M/C with a stock style laying next to it? Like a RAM or GM unit...?
J.
#107
Kleeborp the Moderator™
iTrader: (11)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Can't wait to see this...I've been using a Ram adjustable master with the internal stop cut down a little, and so far it works, but I have to use every possible inch of pedal travel to get full disengagement of my clutch right now. I'd love to get the clutch pedal back down to help out with a little quicker shifts.
Are you guys taking preorders right now?
Are you guys taking preorders right now?
#108
TECH Resident
iTrader: (15)
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Tennessee
Posts: 910
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think a lot of your problems may be coming from the clutch rather than the master you're using. If you've ever really slipped the clutch badly I bet you have noticed that the tranny practically won't go into gear, sometimes for quite a while after the slip occured. Maybe a little slip is occuring when you race or run the car hard, which is heating the fluid and causing the problems you've explained. Less restriction in the line will allow the clutch to engage and disengage quicker and our setup is probably atleast a little less restrictive due to the true -4 line and end. Theres no pin on the line where it goes to the master, just a -4 hose end....the part that has to be drilled out isn't even on our line. The factory line however is a -4, so theres no overall size difference.
The adapter that bolts to the firewall is threaded, and two supplied bolts hold it in place from the inside.
The adapter that bolts to the firewall is threaded, and two supplied bolts hold it in place from the inside.
Do some clutch's friction discs like to be warmed up first before they grip at best? I believe some brake pads work this way so I figured some clutches may be that way. When I had that major slip, the engine was definitely warm. But I was sitting while it warmed up so maybe the clutch didn't warm up from a little bit of driving. When I had that last slip it wasn't like I wasn't hauling *** because I definitely was, but I could feel the slip at the same time and then came the shifting issues.
Some things I will do in the future are get a remote bleeder installed at the same time as my tex clutch and as long as I keep hearing good things about your mc it will replace my mcleod one. Thanks for all the help!
#109
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm going to be needing a mc, but it's not going in a 4th gen. I'm currently working on putting a ls1 t56 into a 79 malibu. I will also need a pedal assembly. Will this mc work with like a willwood pedal or should i use a willwood mc. I'm hoping on that on the spray and a radial going mid nines, what do you recommend for clutch. Thanks
#110
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (5)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm going to be needing a mc, but it's not going in a 4th gen. I'm currently working on putting a ls1 t56 into a 79 malibu. I will also need a pedal assembly. Will this mc work with like a willwood pedal or should i use a willwood mc. I'm hoping on that on the spray and a radial going mid nines, what do you recommend for clutch. Thanks
As for the clutch, that really depends on how much the car weighs, how much torque, and how you intend to use it. Your best bet would probably be a twin disk setup. Spec has several twin disk options or you could go with the textralia exo-skel. Depending on torque, you may get by with a spec 3+ or a tex OZ700 Z grip.
#111
9 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
How about one for the GTO's? I need this BAD, Cant seem to find a clutch that will hold the power in a heavy car and still not be so low to the ground you have to use the entire clutch stroke to engage the gears while driving, or be on top and start smoking the clutch at high RPM's, or like the one now that hit's a brick wall at anything over 5000 RPM's. Being able to adjust this out would be great. So would the added pressure...
#117
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: York, PA
Posts: 1,249
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech20year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jon/Joey-----several people know on here I've been searching for a 10.9x slip for my 2000 FRC Corvette. I happen to have the tex 0Z700 single disc, GM updated slave and master with the drill mod paired with my MGW shifter. I sat here for 30minutes and read through this entire post even the BS part LOL. I'm looking at alot of things to push the car to that magical 10second range NA before I go bottle. I keep saying the shifting is my hold back. I'm curious of a couple things before I decide what to place my order for.
1) After drilling the fire wall on my Corvette and for any reason I want to back to stock with the master cylinder have I hindered that by the drilling? Is it permanent after that? Or will a stock master go right back in no problem? I know that was a couple questions in one sorry about that.
2)Bleeding this system. I LITERALLY HATE DOING THAT WITH MY car LOL! I dont have the remote bleeder system. However I'm a packrat and have hte stock Slave sitting there. Could this be a potential easier way out to do the following. Install everything in the car minus connecting to the slave. Fill the system as described and gravity bleed. Then hook up my spare slave and bleed through there. Disconnect and connect to the slave in my car with no further bleeding or issues? I know this is a long shot but thought i'd throw the idea out there.
3)Price---PM me
I like what you are doing and I really hope this becomes a great product. I've never had a clutch last/grab/shift as good as my textralia does. I have 80 track passes on the car and about 25-30 of those passes are 1.5x 60fts down to several 1.50's.
Thank you Blu for sending me the link on corvetteforum to this. I"m really on the ropes to spend the money on this product. But i'm down to thinking electric waterpump and removing the passenger seat and retune for the 10's. I hoestly feel theres a 10.8x at 127mph if I can shift the car the way I used to shift my Fbody down the track. FLOOR AND SHIFT!!!!!!!!
1) After drilling the fire wall on my Corvette and for any reason I want to back to stock with the master cylinder have I hindered that by the drilling? Is it permanent after that? Or will a stock master go right back in no problem? I know that was a couple questions in one sorry about that.
2)Bleeding this system. I LITERALLY HATE DOING THAT WITH MY car LOL! I dont have the remote bleeder system. However I'm a packrat and have hte stock Slave sitting there. Could this be a potential easier way out to do the following. Install everything in the car minus connecting to the slave. Fill the system as described and gravity bleed. Then hook up my spare slave and bleed through there. Disconnect and connect to the slave in my car with no further bleeding or issues? I know this is a long shot but thought i'd throw the idea out there.
3)Price---PM me
I like what you are doing and I really hope this becomes a great product. I've never had a clutch last/grab/shift as good as my textralia does. I have 80 track passes on the car and about 25-30 of those passes are 1.5x 60fts down to several 1.50's.
Thank you Blu for sending me the link on corvetteforum to this. I"m really on the ropes to spend the money on this product. But i'm down to thinking electric waterpump and removing the passenger seat and retune for the 10's. I hoestly feel theres a 10.8x at 127mph if I can shift the car the way I used to shift my Fbody down the track. FLOOR AND SHIFT!!!!!!!!
#118
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)