Tried bleeding, still no clutch pressure. What next?
09-10-2008, 09:36 PM
#21
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I had this same problem!
When I replaced my clutch I put the updated slave in. Well, while bleeding it, I think I ran the master dry. I had a guy who knew these cars come over to take a look and he told me to get the front of the car at least 3 feet off the ground and start bleeding. That would get the air out of the master. (You have to pump the **** out of it! Get under the car, crack open the bleeder and put your finger over the hole, then have a buddy pump the hell out of the pedal. The fluid will go past your finger while he pushes down, but your finger will plug the hole as he pulls the pedal back up.)
DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY!!!
After running about three master's worth of fluid through it, put the front down and lift the back of the car 3 feet in the air. This will get the slave higher than the master and help get air out of the slave. Now, repeat the process with bleeding. When you start to get a pedal, go to conventional bleeding by opening and closing the bleeder for each pedal movement.
This can all go faster with a MightyVac. But, it's still a painful process. I thought mine would never bleed.
Good luck!
When I replaced my clutch I put the updated slave in. Well, while bleeding it, I think I ran the master dry. I had a guy who knew these cars come over to take a look and he told me to get the front of the car at least 3 feet off the ground and start bleeding. That would get the air out of the master. (You have to pump the **** out of it! Get under the car, crack open the bleeder and put your finger over the hole, then have a buddy pump the hell out of the pedal. The fluid will go past your finger while he pushes down, but your finger will plug the hole as he pulls the pedal back up.)
DO NOT LET THE MASTER GO DRY!!!
After running about three master's worth of fluid through it, put the front down and lift the back of the car 3 feet in the air. This will get the slave higher than the master and help get air out of the slave. Now, repeat the process with bleeding. When you start to get a pedal, go to conventional bleeding by opening and closing the bleeder for each pedal movement.
This can all go faster with a MightyVac. But, it's still a painful process. I thought mine would never bleed.
Good luck!
i agree i have done this on similar hydro clutch systems
09-11-2008, 11:59 PM
#22
I've tried bleeding the clutch every way I can think of. I've tried the 5-pump, 15-pump and 30 pump methods but still nothing. I put the new master cylinder in today, tried bleeding it and I'm still in the same boat. I have my buddy Paul coming to help tomorrow with his miti-vac so hopefully that works. If not, I already have a new GM slave cylinder that we'll try to put in and see if it helps. After that, I've replaced pretty much the whole system. It'll be on it's way to the shop to have a pro figure it out.
09-17-2008, 12:33 AM
#23
Staging Lane
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Yeah, we did the mity vac and it did get a lot of air out but it turns out that i need a shim behind me slave cylinder. I found a shim, i'm putting it in Saturday morning. I'll let ya'll know how it works.
09-18-2008, 02:51 PM
#25
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Pretty sure he has a new flywheel. It just seems some cars need to be shimmed from what I have seen over the years on these cars. His clutch his pre engaging so the shim so help that and hopefully all will be good. Right now the clutch is pretty much working fine its just the engagement thats screwed up. I freaking hate the hyro system for these cars!!
Good luck Brett, let me know how it works out, wish I could help but I'll be on call in case you get real pissed and start a fire or something. lol...anyway I think the shim will do the trick. Theres really nothing else it could be.
Good luck Brett, let me know how it works out, wish I could help but I'll be on call in case you get real pissed and start a fire or something. lol...anyway I think the shim will do the trick. Theres really nothing else it could be.
09-28-2008, 11:00 AM
#29
How thick are the shims & where did you buy them? So you just unbolted the slave cyl & put them betwen the trans & slave mount? I ask because it seems installing the new LS7 clutch didnt seem to solve the "once in a while theres a wall in my trans where it wont go into any gear syndrome" & my clutch engagement is close to the floor. Good pedal feel though. I think I may need a shim to get the slave closer to the clutch.
09-28-2008, 02:22 PM
#30
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Dis-connect the Slave, pump the Clutch until it gets hard and have someone depress the end of the line with a Screwdriver(or whatever works) and push the Clutch to the floor when it's open to push out all the air. Repeat this as necessary until all the Air is out, and you build up pressure to where you can't move the Clutch Petal at all, it will be solid. Then connect the Slave Cylinder in to it and try that.
08-19-2009, 06:37 AM
#31
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Ok, so the fianl thing i did that finaly worked was I'd bought a GM slave for a '98 WS6, when I later found out I needed one for an '01 or newer, because of how much tougher my stage 4 clutch is. I put the new one in, vacuum bled it and now it works perfect.
08-19-2009, 07:17 AM
#32
Tick Perf bleeder line If ya have to drop the trans again, pick up one of those Bleeder Extensions that Tick perf. sells. There Great ! The steel hose is long enough that you can be in the car and have the bleeder right below the rocker panel. Loosen it with 2 wrenches, bleed air, tighten and ur done ! Then tuck the extra line up under the car. I think there like $50 but well worth it...
I got in on one of their group buys on a Tick Master cyl. and the line came with it.
I got in on one of their group buys on a Tick Master cyl. and the line came with it.
08-19-2009, 09:14 AM
#34
Back from the dead...like a Zombie...! I am not sure how I missed this thread a year ago but I am glad that you got it all worked out. In truth you shouldn't need two shims--but if it works it works. Let me know if you need anything else and I will be happy to assist you further. Thanks,
