Nice write-up and pics.

Dave, that plunger might be the Cruise control kill switch.

Seems like a real nice product. I guess I'll put it on my wish list.

 

How did you bleed it without first replacing the clutch line?

 

 

Yes, you don't replace the reservoir.

The master attaches to the back plate of the clutch pedal (through the firewall). The new one has a different hole pattern. Getting the pedal assembly out is about the only difficult part. I love working under a vette dash. Find the longest ratcheting wrench you can.

Not sure about Chris, but I re-assembled everything, added a remote bleeder and then bled the system.

 

Oh crap! I just read that to bleed the clutch we have to remove the H-pipe (or X pipe whatever you have) and the tunnel plate? No big deal... just more work than I wanna add on with my hand tools.

Is this right?

 

Yep. While you are in there, put in a remote bleeder so you won't have to do it again. You might also need to remove the driver's side header.

 

Looks like this will all get done at once when I do my new clutch and headers.

 

Sorry I haven't been paying attention to this thread...

Legman: Yes, the clutch fluid reservoir stays in the same place.

03 Busa: Drilling the pedal assy makes a bolt on location for the cylinder.

C5 Pete: Yes the plunger that triggers at full clutch release is the cruise kill. Depending on where you adjust the clutch release, the plunger is adjustable and may need tweaked so the cruise disengage works right.

N4cer: I bled the cylinder assembly before connecting the clutch line, using a gravity bleed explained in the instructions. It worked real good. I kept the clutch line elevated and full, so I did not have to bleed the system afterwards. I don't have a remote bleeder installed yet and wasn't necessary. But if I had one, I would have used it just to be sure.

 

also for you guys not reusing the spring i cut the ears off pedal bracket to make the bolts easier to reach helped a TON!!!