Thought I would take a few install pics. It might help people wondering about it. The pics were an afterthought so not a great how to, more like a highlight. My first night I got the job half done, and embarassed to say it took every bit of 4 hours to get this far.

Here's the kit as delivered, minus packing materials.



After putting the car in the air, the first step is to disconnect the factory line. Mine happened to be tucked behind this beefy downpipe. The only way to access was remove it. You might have a similar issue with long tubes?



Disconnect the line, a breeze when you can use hands!



Remove the driver side front fender panel, to access the master. It's already gone from this pic.



Remove the clutch pedal assembly. You WILL be upside down under the dash!



Pull the resevoir, 2 easy push connectors and a rubber hose. It's already gone from this pic. I had to dig mine out from stuff I packed away in that area!



The stock master looks girly next to the Tick master!



The clutch pedal will be drilled using the provided sticky template.



That's all for now, calling it a day. See ya tomorrow!

 

Here's the master installed and looking thru the fender.



This pic with the master installed is my favorite. That means I'm almost done and soon will be driving it!



Then bleed it, and replace the clutch line. It takes a while to reinstall the turbo down pipe and make sure everything's buttoned up. Day 2 took me 4-5 hours, so maybe 8-9 total hours of work. Not a record time, but taking a slow easy pace.

The first driving experience is great! The pedal feels good. It seems to engage the clutch alot better from takeoff, with less chatter. Anyone with the Tex clutch knows this is a challenge!

No problem going thru the gears, however I can't duplicate track driving on the street. Even a 3rd gear roll goes sideways at 65mph with ET Streets. I hope to catch one of the final track days this month, and rip those gears! (Weather permitting)

In summary, this product is very well made, and seems to deliver as promised. I really like being able to adjust the pedal. For now, I just need some more seat time...

 

Nice! Thanks for the cool writeup

 

hmm... Thinking of doing this for my Z28. Made a world of difference (I realize its VERY early) ?

 

awesome write up man thanks!
Im getting one soon too.

 

Nice install procedure.. now how about those low 10 second time slips

Nick

 

Very good write up Chris....

 

Awesome job Chris, can't wait to see what kind of ET gains you make.

 

Nice write up. I also fell the clutch is much better with the MC. I want to do a final bleed and a lil re adjustment.

I drove the T/A for 3 days straight and then got into a my 114k mile 2000 Hyundai w/ a stock clutch and stock fluid and the clutch felt BROKEN compared to the Tick unit.

 

Low 10 pass = check! Been trying all year and finally did it.

60': 1.601
1/8: 6.744@107.76
1/4: 10.279@142.21

My best time for the last 2 years was 10.5's about 135mph. Last weekend I smashed that! What's funny is the run wasn't even that clean. Spun hard off the line and tagged the rev limiter.

I've been fighting all year with locked out shifts and grinded ones. It hasn't happened again since installing this master.

Here's the video:



w00t!

 

awesome!
I love my Tick!

 

Nice!!

 

Now THATS what I call success. Awesome job buddy - congratulations!

 

Half way through my install. Pretty easy so far....

Congrats again on that run, Chris. Not sure how I'm going to catch you! I believe that is the record for a stock longblock 6 speed vette.

 

Nice writeup! I personally never really experience much chatter with my or my friend's OZ700 Z-grip. It had a SLIGHT chatter for maybe 50 miles or less and it's been smooth as hell ever since on takeoff from a dead stop. I hear mixed reviews, though. Maybe I just got a good one.

Glad to hear the new master is working out for you.

 

Done with the hard part. I had a little trouble getting the clutch pedal back into place. There is a small bracket with a plunger switch that is in the way. Looks like it throws a signal as to when the clutch is completely released. You can barely see the end of the white plunger on Chris' last picture. It is just behind some wires.

The bracket is held on with two bolts. Remove the one closest to the firewall and loosen the other. The bracket swings away. Makes the whole process WAAAY easier!

 

Looks like this may help on the roadcourse as well with high rpm shifts, anybody have experience with the "Tick" in roadcourse applications?

 

I agree, haven't had the chatter problem after the 1st couple hundred miles, though broke mine in at the strip (off the lift to the strip, lol)

Nice job Chris. I started have the same problem when I approached the 650hp area and big tq. We will have to do this swap on mine for sure, then maybe I can catch your ET, lol.
Robert

 

For the C5...is the clutch fluid reservoir still in the same place after install?

 

What is the reason for drilling the pedal assy??