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Broke off corner of block. Help!
Broke off corner of block. Help! The starter on my car broke and caused the corner of the engine block to break off where the outside starter bolt goes. I didnt know if there was anybody in the St. Louis area or within a couple hours of there that could actually weld the piece back on while the motor is still in the car. The car is a 02 Z28 A4. Any help leading me in the right direction would be great! Thanks
Here are some pictures...http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2646533
Here are some pictures...http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumId=2646533
well most likely the motor is going to have to come out.. i think it would be pretty tough to manuver a welder around that area.. its a very tight fit in there.. also your block is alum.. not such an easy fit man.
is this area a threaded area too?
is this area a threaded area too?
I was told it had to come out already i was just looking for some second opinions. Yes its a threaded area. I guess on the bright side i can go ahead and put a cam in it while its out. lol
pull your plugs and check the cylinders for coolant first. Had a T/A at my shop about a year ago with the same problem. Come to find out it had a bad head gasket and #7 cylinder had coolant in it....
lol what are you talking about? his starter broke and when it did it broke his block..... it nothing to do with a head gasket? wtf lmao
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Think about it....hydro lock. it's an idea or try turning the crank manually to check...
also may want to check the flex plate as well. On that same car that was at my shop, it also cracked the flexplate.
Last edited by winger4800; Sep 30, 2009 at 03:08 PM.
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Apply that same theory to an LS1 or ANY Aluminum Block Engine for that matter, And what do you think is going to happen to a small tab on the side of the block when force is applied to it..... IT WILL BREAK OFF!
So I'd say make sure to double check that.
Also had a similar incident with a 99 Olds Intrigue with a 3.5L twin cam engine. (Aluminum heads, very similar to a Northstar Cadillac engine) Anyways, the tensioner is bolted to the cylinder head and it actually has a notch for a tab on the tensioner to sit into, and also has a hole in the center of the tensioner for the bolt to go through. Well the tensioner bolt threads into a TAB on the side of the head. same as the tab on the side of an LSx Aluminum engine! And it actually broke off as well!
Good Luck to the OP!
*May need to replace the engine all-together. And if so, Maybe a stroker, or a new shortblock from a sponsor would be a best bet for you. They can be found VERY reasonable on here.
I wouldn't worry so much about the treaded part, it's more of reattaching the part back to the block. I snapped a starter bolt in a block a few years back (one bolt backed out, and the other got a little bent and snapped whe I went to take it out) Long story short, I drilled through the old bolt and just used a longer bolt with some washers and a locknut with locktite to hold that bolt in place. Worked fine for over a year.
your right on that!! sorry man.. never thought of it hydrolocking actually.. at the moment it didnt click and then you said this and i was like duh.. my bad man..
Im not sure what cam to go with to be completely honest. I dont want a huge cam i know that. Im keeping the stock heads and intake for now. Im going to put on Headers, ORY, and stall. Im not sure what cam and stall combo to go with. I want it to be very street friendly. So any suggestions???
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From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
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The engine in my Pro-Mod now has the same thing as Yak. It kicked back and cracked the outer bolt hole.
Asked and called around, and everyone said, it can be spray welded, but it must be bare.
I drilled it all the way through added helicoil and a longer bolt. Made about 4-5 pass' since.
If there's enough solid meat left, you might consider trying it before pulling it??
Good luck.
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The engine in my Pro-Mod now has the same thing as Yak. It kicked back and cracked the outer bolt hole.
Asked and called around, and everyone said, it can be spray welded, but it must be bare.
I drilled it all the way through added helicoil and a longer bolt. Made about 4-5 pass' since.
If there's enough solid meat left, you might consider trying it before pulling it??
Good luck.
.
And does it matter if the block is aluminum or cast? Can they both be spray welded?
Where did you get yours block spray welded at and how much did that cost you?
Thanks
Last edited by 02_camaroz28; Oct 2, 2009 at 03:51 PM.
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From: Akron, Ohio
Im not sure what cam to go with to be completely honest. I dont want a huge cam i know that. Im keeping the stock heads and intake for now. Im going to put on Headers, ORY, and stall. Im not sure what cam and stall combo to go with. I want it to be very street friendly. So any suggestions???
im running the gmperformance parts stage 2 cam and a yank ss4000 stall. i absolutely love it. once i finally get it tuned it'll be even better. i ran a 12.39 @ 111.39 last week with this setup. (cam and converter only, stock heads, stock ls1 intake and stock tune) and its completely street able.
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Akron, Ohio
6 & 8 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,284
Likes: 0
From: Illinois, RT 66 dragway area
.
An aluminum block would just get welded up and a new hole machined in.
Spray welding is supposedly the strongest way to fix a cast block.
I have not done it yet, like I said, I drilled it deeper and repaired it myself.
I will be getting it done when it comes apart for the winter.
Mine is a brand new Big M, that I have almost $3000 in, that there's no way I can just scrap because the corner is gone.
Even if I have to spend a few hundred bucks, I'm doing it.
If I can find my notes, I'll post who does it in the Chicago area.
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