ask nate...no other way to run 11.5 than throw in a donkey dick cam and 100 shot.

**** man.

 

Spray is good.

 

Well I started pulling the motor out tonight, and I almost have the motor and trans out of the car. I decided to pull it from the bottom and while it's out I'm going to be cleaning up under the hood and deleting some things I really don't need. Considering it's gonna be a weekend car.
Well anyways..... I have to pick up the hoist tomorrow and get started on lowering the K-Member and the Trans. Crossmember on Thursday. Wish me luck guys....

James

 

been a member for a while but just dont get on this part of the site much. im in tipton about an hour north of indy. my cars been outa commision for about 9 months but ill get my motor done and put back in in less then a week. not too many people with fbodies around tipton but im in kokomo and indy and everywhere in between pretty frequently. maybe ill see some of you guys sometime. new baby so cruising is limited anymore. but anyways just saying hi.

 

It should the car went 12.5@115 NA when I ran it a few weeks ago and that was with a EASY launch (2.2 60 ft) to avoid breaking the stock 10 bolt and easy shifts. Plus cutouts closed, a cooler in the car, my tool box, and all kinds of crap I wasn't planning on racing.

Plus I still have to bolt on:

QA1's Front and Rear (full coilovers)
Spohn Adj Tq arm
BMR adj pan hard bar
NX kit with all the good stuff
Welds fat and skinnys 26x11.5 ET streets and MT front runners
Racetronix fuel system
Racetronix injectors
Gotta take the A/C off
SLP ram air
12 Bolt with 3.73's Eaton Posi and 33 spline axles

I still have to buy:

Subframe connectors (which should I get?)
Driveshaft (same thing not sure which to get?)

Then its time to put it together get a tune and have some fun.

 

i'd try to find a set of the kenny brown 3 pt. weld in subframes, i had a set on my car. they are very nice, heavy as hell, but work very well. just get a steel driveshaft out of an a4 273 car unless you really want to drop some coin on an aftermarket driveshaft. gains would be minimal and hardly worth it for a street car.

 

Will a stock steel ds hold the power?

 

yes, the u-joint will go before the driveshaft does. also, i highly doubt the car would even 1.6 on those 18" drag radials..

 

Well my cobra with Road race susp went 1.70 60 fts on 18" nittos. So I would hope a drag susp TA could do 1.6's on 18" BFG drs.

Plus you must have missed the

26x11.5x15 ET streets on welds.

 

ah yeah i did. either way, the u joint will break before the driveshaft twists. i haven't personally heard of anyone breaking one, nor do i recall reading such a post in the drivetrain section...i'll check it out, perhaps you should, too.

 

Yeah I will definately have to check into one, it would be nice right now to not have to spend 400 on a ds.

 

1.50s on my stock steel DS but I had 1350 U-joints. Upgrade to a CM one from speed inc.

 

just ordered a couple more goodies main thing was a lid the rest was show but now ls6 inatke and h/c pakage and im done with power wise then suspension

 

Can anyone around the Indy area recommend a shop to install SFC's on a 4th gen F-Body? I'm probably going to get the weld in type. LMPerformance has the J&M Products Flat Tube Subframe Connectors Triangular Style for 1993-2002 F-Body for $194 with free shipping. Seems like a decent deal.

 

I'm telling you, Ryan, the traingular ones weigh more and is not needed unless you plan on running it on an autocross. You can get a better deal on UMI SFC's at Speed Inc. Free shipping.

UMI2001 1993 - 2002 GM F-Body Tubular Subframe Connectors - Weld-In $154.99

 

Decisions Decisions. I guess I really should wait and see what the total damage is going to be at RPM Transmissions before I put anything on my "to buy" list. I'm not looking forward to that bill.

 

I'm afraid that I have to agree with the chicken boy on this one, whostorm05. The UMI units are great quality. BMR also makes a good set. And the tubular units do not reduce your ground clearance, either. Best of luck.

 

Still have the stock steel one?

 

Got my car back! The wallet damage was about as much as I expected. The guys at RPM Transmissions were all really nice. They took time out to show me all the old parts, I took some cell phone pics I wish I would have taken my camera with me. They said it was the worst damage to a transmission they have ever seen - and I'm sure they have seen some bad ones. They said I was lucky the thing didn't catch on fire.

I'll post the pics somewhere, I hope they came out at least viewable.

They even put the car back on the lift so I could get a good look at the underneath. They noticed my "issue" with the driver side header and the oil filter - it looks like someone just beat the **** out of that header, but they said there doesn't apepar to be any frame rail or clip damage, so they can't even begin to guess what happened. Maybe someone jumped a curb or something?? Anyway, they suggested replacing the headers and y pipe. The header is right up against the oil filter and is probably heating up the oil pretty good, and a fire hazard.

They also said my rear end leaks, but evidently almost all 9 inch rear ends leak. They said just to wipe it down and fill it up every once in a while and I should be fine. I need to figure out how to do that.

The car feels and drives so much better. I can't wait to put a few more miles on it so I can see what it will do.

 

Crappy pics of a few of the old transmission parts....I wish I would have had my real camera with me.


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