Another Hall's deal!!!
09-04-2008, 04:03 PM
#3361
L92's don't seem to seal as well as LQ9 from what I have seen...LQ9 head ported by all with good valves and springs would be the best dollar/performance value. I would do a 370 cube iron motor, stock crank, forged rods/pistons/ARP fastners, ported LQ9 heads, reverse the manifolds, ported LS2 intake and ported TB. Proven, cheap, reliable, make lots of power
09-04-2008, 04:41 PM
#3363
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L92's don't seem to seal as well as LQ9 from what I have seen...LQ9 head ported by all with good valves and springs would be the best dollar/performance value. I would do a 370 cube iron motor, stock crank, forged rods/pistons/ARP fastners, ported LQ9 heads, reverse the manifolds, ported LS2 intake and ported TB. Proven, cheap, reliable, make lots of power
09-04-2008, 05:03 PM
#3365
I'd do stainless valves with forced induction (or nitrous for that matter). Cheap insurance.
I'm not completely sure that flipped manifolds will work just yet, but we'll figure something out. It may be C6 manifolds + Vette "pedestal" style mounts to clear the frame rails in the FD. I'd avoid tubular personally. Expensive + fragile =
in my book.
I'm not completely sure that flipped manifolds will work just yet, but we'll figure something out. It may be C6 manifolds + Vette "pedestal" style mounts to clear the frame rails in the FD. I'd avoid tubular personally. Expensive + fragile =
in my book. 
09-04-2008, 05:55 PM
#3367
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I'd do stainless valves with forced induction (or nitrous for that matter). Cheap insurance.
I'm not completely sure that flipped manifolds will work just yet, but we'll figure something out. It may be C6 manifolds + Vette "pedestal" style mounts to clear the frame rails in the FD. I'd avoid tubular personally. Expensive + fragile = in my book.
I'm not completely sure that flipped manifolds will work just yet, but we'll figure something out. It may be C6 manifolds + Vette "pedestal" style mounts to clear the frame rails in the FD. I'd avoid tubular personally. Expensive + fragile =
in my book.
I read somewhere on v8rx7forum, that you had to notch the frame rails, I believe, for the truck manifolds to work... but only time will tell... i need a motor and car first
09-04-2008, 07:10 PM
#3370
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Mines in my car! Its just in the rear hatch right now... It was susposed to go in Monday but that didn't happen and my car isn't running right anyway so I haven't called to reschedule with the welder.
09-04-2008, 08:05 PM
#3372
The ones in my Z have ran flawlessly, but the one in the Fireturd is offcially
I wish there was a simple solution to getting a for sure made in the USA Walbro. As for now, I guess I'll be rolling the not so lucky lately dice on getting another Walbro through Joe.
09-04-2008, 09:47 PM
#3374
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Stainless valves WILL work for the intake valves, but stainless valves WILL NOT work for the exhaust valves. You will need ICONEL material for the exhaust valves.
09-04-2008, 09:58 PM
#3375
edit: Looks like Ferrea Super Alloy T/F style valves are only ~350 dollars in 1.60" for an LSx head (exhaust only). That's not terrible, my stainless valves weren't dramatically cheaper than that.
Last edited by digitalsolo; 09-04-2008 at 10:05 PM.
09-04-2008, 10:16 PM
#3377
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I think my work sells Ferrea, so my discount should ease some of the pain
Blake,
Other than the motor, turbo and trans, can you give me a guess-timate of how much the "swap kit" and random parts like that usually end up costing... I know it's next to impossible to get a fairly close price, but at least a ballpark figure. Thanks!
Blake,
Other than the motor, turbo and trans, can you give me a guess-timate of how much the "swap kit" and random parts like that usually end up costing... I know it's next to impossible to get a fairly close price, but at least a ballpark figure. Thanks!
09-04-2008, 10:49 PM
#3378
I think my work sells Ferrea, so my discount should ease some of the pain
Blake,
Other than the motor, turbo and trans, can you give me a guess-timate of how much the "swap kit" and random parts like that usually end up costing... I know it's next to impossible to get a fairly close price, but at least a ballpark figure. Thanks!
Blake,
Other than the motor, turbo and trans, can you give me a guess-timate of how much the "swap kit" and random parts like that usually end up costing... I know it's next to impossible to get a fairly close price, but at least a ballpark figure. Thanks!
09-04-2008, 10:52 PM
#3379
I'm not sure what Samberg charges for their kit, but...
Kit w/driveshaft should be around: 1500-1700 dollars
Clutch Hydraulics: 100 dollars
Cooling system: 250 dollars
Fuel system: 1000 dollars (gotta support that turbo...)
Gauges: 500 dollars
Random bits: 500 dollars
So, somewhere around 4000 dollars + engine + trans + turbo and plumbing, I/C, etc. + car. I'd expect 5500-6500 for engine + tranny + 2000 for turbo and related bits + 5500 for car...
So... 15-17k dollars. Ballpark.
Remove 4500 dollars or so for a basic N/A setup. Just a thought, as it might be easier to build the car, debug it, drive it next summer THEN tear it down and do the turbo setup the following winter.
FWIW my FC cost around 10k to put together, but that's with a few pieces purchased and never used and some things I ended up swapping. That doesn't include my spare engines and transmissions.
Kit w/driveshaft should be around: 1500-1700 dollars
Clutch Hydraulics: 100 dollars
Cooling system: 250 dollars
Fuel system: 1000 dollars (gotta support that turbo...)
Gauges: 500 dollars
Random bits: 500 dollars
So, somewhere around 4000 dollars + engine + trans + turbo and plumbing, I/C, etc. + car. I'd expect 5500-6500 for engine + tranny + 2000 for turbo and related bits + 5500 for car...
So... 15-17k dollars. Ballpark.
Remove 4500 dollars or so for a basic N/A setup. Just a thought, as it might be easier to build the car, debug it, drive it next summer THEN tear it down and do the turbo setup the following winter.
FWIW my FC cost around 10k to put together, but that's with a few pieces purchased and never used and some things I ended up swapping. That doesn't include my spare engines and transmissions.
09-04-2008, 11:10 PM
#3380
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lol, it's never a good thing when you ask how much while trying to build a car.... dah well gotta pay to play... i'll enjoy being debt free while i can
sweetness... the na/n2o idea crossed my mind, but i don't wanna have to buy 2 sets of pistons, 2 cams, tune it twice etc etc... I get all my parts at cost through work, that's my saving grace. i was just doing a mock build on paper and adding it all up, and wanted to make sure it wasn't in the 20's lol... i'm banking on mid teens (praying HARD for low teens 
), so it should be all good
I'm not sure what Samberg charges for their kit, but...
Kit w/driveshaft should be around: 1500-1700 dollars
Clutch Hydraulics: 100 dollars
Cooling system: 250 dollars
Fuel system: 1000 dollars (gotta support that turbo...)
Gauges: 500 dollars
Random bits: 500 dollars
So, somewhere around 4000 dollars + engine + trans + turbo and plumbing, I/C, etc. + car. I'd expect 5500-6500 for engine + tranny + 2000 for turbo and related bits + 5500 for car...
So... 15-17k dollars. Ballpark.
Remove 4500 dollars or so for a basic N/A setup. Just a thought, as it might be easier to build the car, debug it, drive it next summer THEN tear it down and do the turbo setup the following winter.
FWIW my FC cost around 10k to put together, but that's with a few pieces purchased and never used and some things I ended up swapping. That doesn't include my spare engines and transmissions.
Kit w/driveshaft should be around: 1500-1700 dollars
Clutch Hydraulics: 100 dollars
Cooling system: 250 dollars
Fuel system: 1000 dollars (gotta support that turbo...)
Gauges: 500 dollars
Random bits: 500 dollars
So, somewhere around 4000 dollars + engine + trans + turbo and plumbing, I/C, etc. + car. I'd expect 5500-6500 for engine + tranny + 2000 for turbo and related bits + 5500 for car...
So... 15-17k dollars. Ballpark.
Remove 4500 dollars or so for a basic N/A setup. Just a thought, as it might be easier to build the car, debug it, drive it next summer THEN tear it down and do the turbo setup the following winter.
FWIW my FC cost around 10k to put together, but that's with a few pieces purchased and never used and some things I ended up swapping. That doesn't include my spare engines and transmissions.
), so it should be all good