Another Hall's deal!!!
10-24-2008, 04:29 PM
#5781
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LETS TRY THIS....
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
10-24-2008, 04:37 PM
#5782
LETS TRY THIS....
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
10-24-2008, 04:44 PM
#5783
hey so i just bought a 160 degree thermostat on here new in box, but i guess its probly too cold of a thermostat for me (mixed reviews on the search)
so should i run the 160, or get a 180 instead?
if i should get a 180 then i have a 160 degree thermo for sale hint hint blake, azar, beast....
so should i run the 160, or get a 180 instead?
if i should get a 180 then i have a 160 degree thermo for sale
hint hint blake, azar, beast.... 
10-24-2008, 04:59 PM
#5785
Staging Lane
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10-24-2008, 05:04 PM
#5786
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10-24-2008, 05:04 PM
#5787
Staging Lane
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LETS TRY THIS....
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
JPH & COBB i found your birthplace.....
http://curezone.com/upload/Members/n...tokeAlaska.wmv
LMAO I'm so glad I bought stock in the AXE company, dividends should should be paying out soon..... HA HA
10-24-2008, 05:05 PM
#5788
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Anybody made it out to Lady Janes yet? I am in serious need of getting my mange trimmed up and I'd like to hear some feed back.
Is there anyone that needs a trim and wants to go there tomorrow?
Is there anyone that needs a trim and wants to go there tomorrow?
10-24-2008, 05:09 PM
#5789
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hey so i just bought a 160 degree thermostat on here new in box, but i guess its probly too cold of a thermostat for me (mixed reviews on the search)
so should i run the 160, or get a 180 instead?
if i should get a 180 then i have a 160 degree thermo for sale hint hint blake, azar, beast....
so should i run the 160, or get a 180 instead?
if i should get a 180 then i have a 160 degree thermo for sale
hint hint blake, azar, beast....
10-24-2008, 05:25 PM
#5790
ben, terry, thats what i was thinkin too, but when i searched about the 160 a guy was talkin about the coolant not being able to stay cool and all sorts of stuff.
my thinkin here is that that guy is wrong. once the thermostat opens and allows the coolant out of the motor and into the radiator wouldn't that allow it to cool that much more?????
plus w/ the heads/cam plan i'll need a tune newayz so i can just have the fan kick on temp lowered to utilize the new thermo
my thinkin here is that that guy is wrong. once the thermostat opens and allows the coolant out of the motor and into the radiator wouldn't that allow it to cool that much more?????
plus w/ the heads/cam plan i'll need a tune newayz so i can just have the fan kick on temp lowered to utilize the new thermo
10-24-2008, 05:28 PM
#5791
this is the post i was talkin about VVV
I've talked with GM techs, and they say that these cars like to run a little warmer to perform the best... and to not use a 160* t-stat which will stay open all the time and not actually allow the coolant to "cool off" to actually cool the engine...
here's some additional info I have:
============================
What effect the 160 stat has on the engine/computer depends on different factors. In terms of achieving closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor plays a more important role - it will not function until the exhaust temperature is at least 660 degrees F. To a degree this is a function of the coolant temp, so it is possible that abnormally cold coolant temps can prevent closed loop operation.
If the coolant reaches 160 degrees, there should be no problem, as the torque converter lockup AIR, and EGR function at temps over (approximately) 150 degrees F. The trouble is that overcooling (and subsequent chronic open loop operation) is much more likely with the colder stat, since you are running that much closer to the "crossover" temp. This is especially true in colder climates, where the ambient temperature can contribute to the overcooling problem. A 160 stat is probably not a good idea if the ambient temperature is below 75 degrees F, or if a significant percentage of the driving time is spent on the highway. In that case, go with the 180 instead.
Aside from loss of converter lockup, AIR, and EGR operation, overcooling can cause an abnormally rich air/fuel ratio, which at best will make your fuel economy and performance suffer, and at worst will destroy the catalytic converter. In any case, the colder stat is not much good without changing the temperature at which the radiator fan activates. During city driving, the fan will simply wait until the coolant reaches 225 degrees F to turn on, which is what you were trying to avoid in the first place.
==========================================
there is a "middle ground" where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That "magic" number lies in the 175-180 degree range, which requires a 180 degree thermostat..
The all too commonly used 160 degree thermostat is way too low to be considered for performance or engine longevity. As the chart illustrates, engine wear increased by double at 160, than at 185 degrees. So then, why do the 160's exist in the first place? The 160's were commonly used in older, open loop cooling systems where only 6 pound radiator caps were used, and low 212 degree boiling points were experienced. In contrast, modern cooling systems can see upwards of 260 degrees in coolant temperature with radiator pressures exceeding 45 pounds. Many early hot rodders found the 160's to be better performing than the 190's, however, the in between "180" appears to satisfy both ends of the spectrum. The correct water temperature is required for the cylinders to achieve a minimum specific temperature in order to allow a fully homogenized Air/Fuel mixture to combust efficiently. Guess what the minimum number is… right! 180 degrees. Even so, you might see some still recommending the lower 160's, for no other reason than to possibly get that last drop of horsepower out, at the high price of dramatically reducing the life of the engine and it's internal components.
================================================== =
here's some additional info I have:
============================
What effect the 160 stat has on the engine/computer depends on different factors. In terms of achieving closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor plays a more important role - it will not function until the exhaust temperature is at least 660 degrees F. To a degree this is a function of the coolant temp, so it is possible that abnormally cold coolant temps can prevent closed loop operation.
If the coolant reaches 160 degrees, there should be no problem, as the torque converter lockup AIR, and EGR function at temps over (approximately) 150 degrees F. The trouble is that overcooling (and subsequent chronic open loop operation) is much more likely with the colder stat, since you are running that much closer to the "crossover" temp. This is especially true in colder climates, where the ambient temperature can contribute to the overcooling problem. A 160 stat is probably not a good idea if the ambient temperature is below 75 degrees F, or if a significant percentage of the driving time is spent on the highway. In that case, go with the 180 instead.
Aside from loss of converter lockup, AIR, and EGR operation, overcooling can cause an abnormally rich air/fuel ratio, which at best will make your fuel economy and performance suffer, and at worst will destroy the catalytic converter. In any case, the colder stat is not much good without changing the temperature at which the radiator fan activates. During city driving, the fan will simply wait until the coolant reaches 225 degrees F to turn on, which is what you were trying to avoid in the first place.
==========================================
there is a "middle ground" where both optimum performance as well as minimal wear share similar characteristics. That "magic" number lies in the 175-180 degree range, which requires a 180 degree thermostat..
The all too commonly used 160 degree thermostat is way too low to be considered for performance or engine longevity. As the chart illustrates, engine wear increased by double at 160, than at 185 degrees. So then, why do the 160's exist in the first place? The 160's were commonly used in older, open loop cooling systems where only 6 pound radiator caps were used, and low 212 degree boiling points were experienced. In contrast, modern cooling systems can see upwards of 260 degrees in coolant temperature with radiator pressures exceeding 45 pounds. Many early hot rodders found the 160's to be better performing than the 190's, however, the in between "180" appears to satisfy both ends of the spectrum. The correct water temperature is required for the cylinders to achieve a minimum specific temperature in order to allow a fully homogenized Air/Fuel mixture to combust efficiently. Guess what the minimum number is… right! 180 degrees. Even so, you might see some still recommending the lower 160's, for no other reason than to possibly get that last drop of horsepower out, at the high price of dramatically reducing the life of the engine and it's internal components.
================================================== =
10-24-2008, 05:38 PM
#5792
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Since i have a NASA type gauge assembly, i can tell you that with a 160 thermostat you will be around the 170-175 range in temps. (this is with 70% distilled water 30% coolant with water wetter I am measureing just below the left head on the block. The only reason i would be off is due to autometer having bunk gauges. For the money i spent, i doubt that they are off too much.
10-24-2008, 06:48 PM
#5795
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10-24-2008, 07:01 PM
#5796
10-24-2008, 10:13 PM
#5799
Ok someone was out doing there own "Test and Tune" on hwy 30 west working there way back towards town around 11pm tonight. I was standing out front having a cig listening. It made me go put a damn jacket on and have another cig! LOL
Who ever that was if you are reading this you made me jealous
And that car sounded sic especially when you were launching. My first thought was shocker but after texting him I found out it was not.
Who ever that was if you are reading this you made me jealous
And that car sounded sic especially when you were launching. My first thought was shocker but after texting him I found out it was not.
10-24-2008, 10:16 PM
#5800
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Here you go then, http://fortwayne.craigslist.org/cto/892176440.html, it even has a hood so you can be like Nate.
, same price and condition .