Another Hall's deal!!!
11-08-2008, 07:07 AM
#6441
I have been talking to Joe about my setup all the time. I have 3.73 gears, and I ordered the new converter that Yank just came out with the SBS3800 stall. I am planning on doing the RHS 210 heads, and the cam that Joe has talked about putting in is a mid to high 230's cam. Also I already have Kooks Long Tube Headers, and was also planning on buying a driveshaft safety loop anyways for my winter project. I'll probably take my car to the track occasionally but not that very often at all.
11-08-2008, 09:39 AM
#6443
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Why RHS heads? there are so many proven heads out there, why use an off brand like RHS (I know they do a ton of sbc race stuff), but even some ported LS6 heads from Al would be killer and proven. Kooks are 1 3/4 I assume? Get the biggest tranny cooler you can get and DO NOT use synthetic tranny fluid. SHould be a fun car!
Should take high teen's or low 20 psi to get there. I've got an AEM TruBoost boost controler that can handle up to 30psi. Any word from Al on my heads lately?
11-08-2008, 11:30 AM
#6446
Anybody want to come help me smash my RX7 into little pieces with a bat?
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
11-08-2008, 11:43 AM
#6447
Anybody want to come help me smash my RX7 into little pieces with a bat?
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
11-08-2008, 11:52 AM
#6448
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[QUOTE=digitalsolo;10444394]Anybody want to come help me smash my RX7 into little pieces with a bat?
Project super Ninja 2.0 LOL . Nows the time to take a break and walk away from the car,put the tools down and have a drink. Your just a that point were we've all been.
Chill and work on it another day,hell you have a winter to work on it.
Project super Ninja 2.0 LOL . Nows the time to take a break and walk away from the car,put the tools down and have a drink. Your just a that point were we've all been.
Chill and work on it another day,hell you have a winter to work on it.
11-08-2008, 11:57 AM
#6450
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Hey darren what the hell happend to you yesterday? I had the rack cleared for you to bring the SS over to bleed the clutch and you never showed or called?? I tried to call both your numbers and no answer. WTF??
11-08-2008, 12:01 PM
#6451
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Anybody want to come help me smash my RX7 into little pieces with a bat?
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
All are welcome.
Bring sawzalls with metal cutting blades to chop the heads and turbo kit into little pieces also.
Crank bolt broke while tightening (by hand, with a 16" socket wrench) nicely into the crank. I put it in 3 turns by hand, so I see no way it could have cross threaded. My bottom end is now garbage.
**** that car.
11-08-2008, 12:28 PM
#6452
It snapped cleanly off in the crank snout, right at the top of the threads (where the indentation is where the threads were cut/rolled).
Since it broke (I was he-man'ing it pretty good, though I'm not THAT strong and the factory torque spec is far more than I can ever apply with a Craftsman socket wrench) under pressure, I'm fairly sure it probably abused the threads. I don't know if I trust a helicoiled crank bolt thread set, and it would have to be out to really get that "right" wouldn't it?
I have a spare crank (had spun bearings) that I can have checked and turned, but if the motor has to come apart, I might as well put in rods/pistons, so that it can actually survive the abuse. At that point, I'm going to need to either change blocks, or overbore my 5.3L to 5.7L, since forged pistons for the 5.3 would be custom, and cover the cost of doing the block change or overbore anyway. I'm expecting 2000-2500 dollars in parts/labor. To be blunt, I don't have 2500 dollars in cash at this point, I've spent enough on the turbocharger as is.
I know I could spend 500-600 bucks and throw in another 5.3L, but I'm just wasting the money, since that's a third of the cost of doing a "proper" build anyway. I'm just livid, I just got the Katech bolts put in, the last 2-3 parts are here that I needed to finish assembly. I'm literally a shipment to/from Jet-Hot for my header/turbo coatings from being able to get the car ready, and a 5 dollar bolt has completely pissed in my kool-aid.
Ironically, I was going to upgrade the pulley and use an ARP bolt, but I figured since I'm only spinning to ~6800 RPM, the stock pulley should be fine, and I was at GM anyway, so I snagged a bolt. ~150 bucks for a Powerbond pulley and ARP bolt. Seems like a good deal now.
I'm thinking about just parting the car out and building a turbo bike. It'll go faster and cost less. Or just weld the damned pulley in place with my welder. Or light the car on fire and shove it off a cliff. One of the three.
Since it broke (I was he-man'ing it pretty good, though I'm not THAT strong and the factory torque spec is far more than I can ever apply with a Craftsman socket wrench) under pressure, I'm fairly sure it probably abused the threads. I don't know if I trust a helicoiled crank bolt thread set, and it would have to be out to really get that "right" wouldn't it?
I have a spare crank (had spun bearings) that I can have checked and turned, but if the motor has to come apart, I might as well put in rods/pistons, so that it can actually survive the abuse. At that point, I'm going to need to either change blocks, or overbore my 5.3L to 5.7L, since forged pistons for the 5.3 would be custom, and cover the cost of doing the block change or overbore anyway. I'm expecting 2000-2500 dollars in parts/labor. To be blunt, I don't have 2500 dollars in cash at this point, I've spent enough on the turbocharger as is.
I know I could spend 500-600 bucks and throw in another 5.3L, but I'm just wasting the money, since that's a third of the cost of doing a "proper" build anyway. I'm just livid, I just got the Katech bolts put in, the last 2-3 parts are here that I needed to finish assembly. I'm literally a shipment to/from Jet-Hot for my header/turbo coatings from being able to get the car ready, and a 5 dollar bolt has completely pissed in my kool-aid.
Ironically, I was going to upgrade the pulley and use an ARP bolt, but I figured since I'm only spinning to ~6800 RPM, the stock pulley should be fine, and I was at GM anyway, so I snagged a bolt. ~150 bucks for a Powerbond pulley and ARP bolt. Seems like a good deal now.
I'm thinking about just parting the car out and building a turbo bike. It'll go faster and cost less. Or just weld the damned pulley in place with my welder. Or light the car on fire and shove it off a cliff. One of the three.
11-08-2008, 12:59 PM
#6455
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It snapped cleanly off in the crank snout, right at the top of the threads (where the indentation is where the threads were cut/rolled).
Since it broke (I was he-man'ing it pretty good, though I'm not THAT strong and the factory torque spec is far more than I can ever apply with a Craftsman socket wrench) under pressure, I'm fairly sure it probably abused the threads. I don't know if I trust a helicoiled crank bolt thread set, and it would have to be out to really get that "right" wouldn't it?
I have a spare crank (had spun bearings) that I can have checked and turned, but if the motor has to come apart, I might as well put in rods/pistons, so that it can actually survive the abuse. At that point, I'm going to need to either change blocks, or overbore my 5.3L to 5.7L, since forged pistons for the 5.3 would be custom, and cover the cost of doing the block change or overbore anyway. I'm expecting 2000-2500 dollars in parts/labor. To be blunt, I don't have 2500 dollars in cash at this point, I've spent enough on the turbocharger as is.
I know I could spend 500-600 bucks and throw in another 5.3L, but I'm just wasting the money, since that's a third of the cost of doing a "proper" build anyway. I'm just livid, I just got the Katech bolts put in, the last 2-3 parts are here that I needed to finish assembly. I'm literally a shipment to/from Jet-Hot for my header/turbo coatings from being able to get the car ready, and a 5 dollar bolt has completely pissed in my kool-aid.
Ironically, I was going to upgrade the pulley and use an ARP bolt, but I figured since I'm only spinning to ~6800 RPM, the stock pulley should be fine, and I was at GM anyway, so I snagged a bolt. ~150 bucks for a Powerbond pulley and ARP bolt. Seems like a good deal now.
I'm thinking about just parting the car out and building a turbo bike. It'll go faster and cost less. Or just weld the damned pulley in place with my welder. Or light the car on fire and shove it off a cliff. One of the three.
Since it broke (I was he-man'ing it pretty good, though I'm not THAT strong and the factory torque spec is far more than I can ever apply with a Craftsman socket wrench) under pressure, I'm fairly sure it probably abused the threads. I don't know if I trust a helicoiled crank bolt thread set, and it would have to be out to really get that "right" wouldn't it?
I have a spare crank (had spun bearings) that I can have checked and turned, but if the motor has to come apart, I might as well put in rods/pistons, so that it can actually survive the abuse. At that point, I'm going to need to either change blocks, or overbore my 5.3L to 5.7L, since forged pistons for the 5.3 would be custom, and cover the cost of doing the block change or overbore anyway. I'm expecting 2000-2500 dollars in parts/labor. To be blunt, I don't have 2500 dollars in cash at this point, I've spent enough on the turbocharger as is.
I know I could spend 500-600 bucks and throw in another 5.3L, but I'm just wasting the money, since that's a third of the cost of doing a "proper" build anyway. I'm just livid, I just got the Katech bolts put in, the last 2-3 parts are here that I needed to finish assembly. I'm literally a shipment to/from Jet-Hot for my header/turbo coatings from being able to get the car ready, and a 5 dollar bolt has completely pissed in my kool-aid.
Ironically, I was going to upgrade the pulley and use an ARP bolt, but I figured since I'm only spinning to ~6800 RPM, the stock pulley should be fine, and I was at GM anyway, so I snagged a bolt. ~150 bucks for a Powerbond pulley and ARP bolt. Seems like a good deal now.
I'm thinking about just parting the car out and building a turbo bike. It'll go faster and cost less. Or just weld the damned pulley in place with my welder. Or light the car on fire and shove it off a cliff. One of the three.
11-08-2008, 01:24 PM
#6459
Joe,
I think I know what you're talking about doing to fix it. You trust that method?
I can drill the bolt out, I have a pneumatic drill motor that will clear that ****** out like no tomorrow. I do not however have any bits that are big enough, so I'll pick one up and get it cleaned out.
I'll give you a call Monday about renting that tool. I'm guessing you can get or know where to get at the bigger diameter bolt in sufficient grade?
Thanks for your help, hopefully I can fix it this way. The effort/benefit ratio on a motor I only wanted to last the next 8-12 months fades quickly.
To the people talking about easy outs. I'm 99% sure the threads were cut wrong on the GM bolt. I don't think an easy out will do it, and will probably just break in the bolt, and then I have REALLY hard parts to try and drill.
I think I know what you're talking about doing to fix it. You trust that method?
I can drill the bolt out, I have a pneumatic drill motor that will clear that ****** out like no tomorrow. I do not however have any bits that are big enough, so I'll pick one up and get it cleaned out.
I'll give you a call Monday about renting that tool. I'm guessing you can get or know where to get at the bigger diameter bolt in sufficient grade?
Thanks for your help, hopefully I can fix it this way. The effort/benefit ratio on a motor I only wanted to last the next 8-12 months fades quickly.
To the people talking about easy outs. I'm 99% sure the threads were cut wrong on the GM bolt. I don't think an easy out will do it, and will probably just break in the bolt, and then I have REALLY hard parts to try and drill.
11-08-2008, 02:02 PM
#6460
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Joe,
I think I know what you're talking about doing to fix it. You trust that method?
I can drill the bolt out, I have a pneumatic drill motor that will clear that ****** out like no tomorrow. I do not however have any bits that are big enough, so I'll pick one up and get it cleaned out.
I'll give you a call Monday about renting that tool. I'm guessing you can get or know where to get at the bigger diameter bolt in sufficient grade?
Thanks for your help, hopefully I can fix it this way. The effort/benefit ratio on a motor I only wanted to last the next 8-12 months fades quickly.
To the people talking about easy outs. I'm 99% sure the threads were cut wrong on the GM bolt. I don't think an easy out will do it, and will probably just break in the bolt, and then I have REALLY hard parts to try and drill.
I think I know what you're talking about doing to fix it. You trust that method?
I can drill the bolt out, I have a pneumatic drill motor that will clear that ****** out like no tomorrow. I do not however have any bits that are big enough, so I'll pick one up and get it cleaned out.
I'll give you a call Monday about renting that tool. I'm guessing you can get or know where to get at the bigger diameter bolt in sufficient grade?
Thanks for your help, hopefully I can fix it this way. The effort/benefit ratio on a motor I only wanted to last the next 8-12 months fades quickly.
To the people talking about easy outs. I'm 99% sure the threads were cut wrong on the GM bolt. I don't think an easy out will do it, and will probably just break in the bolt, and then I have REALLY hard parts to try and drill.