Who Ports TBs?
07-22-2008, 08:46 PM
#1
TECH Addict
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Schiller Park (NW burb of Chicago)
Posts: 2,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who Ports TBs? Who around the chicago area....somewhere within 45 minutes of O'Hare Airport...ports throttle bodies? I've been trying to search and can't find much. I don't trust doing it myself. This is my only car, so I can't have it on a lot of downtime, especially if I **** it up. I don't have a dremel either...Thanks in advance
07-22-2008, 11:57 PM
#2
good thing you don't have a dremel, that's the wrong way to do it, short neck ends up nicking everything when you try to get in there and open up the throat.
anyway, I'm your man on this one
Here is a unit i did recently for a customer. Ported it, shaft is halfed as well. Then mirror black powdercoat, chrome powder with clear on the cam gear, polished return spring, and polished IAC motor. Pricing is $60 for just a port job, add $55 for powdercoat/polished spring/polished IAC motor. Add $100 if you want it show polished. I can have the port work done in one nite anytime. If you want powdercoat, I can get it all done in one nite also but just need to plan ahead. I also removed all the casting marks and so forth from the top and side before I powder it for a nice perfect finish
I'm in rolling meadows near 53, I'm 15 minutes from O'hare
Let me know via PM and I'll try to remember to check this thread tomorrow also.
anyway, I'm your man on this one
Here is a unit i did recently for a customer. Ported it, shaft is halfed as well. Then mirror black powdercoat, chrome powder with clear on the cam gear, polished return spring, and polished IAC motor. Pricing is $60 for just a port job, add $55 for powdercoat/polished spring/polished IAC motor. Add $100 if you want it show polished. I can have the port work done in one nite anytime. If you want powdercoat, I can get it all done in one nite also but just need to plan ahead. I also removed all the casting marks and so forth from the top and side before I powder it for a nice perfect finish
I'm in rolling meadows near 53, I'm 15 minutes from O'hare
Let me know via PM and I'll try to remember to check this thread tomorrow also.
07-23-2008, 08:44 AM
#4
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a dremel is not the wrong way,,,lol. Just use a long stemmed drum.....lol,,thats funny. You still have alot of material on that outer edge in that pic..much more porting to be done there. Coating is very nice though.
I DO NOT do them here, dont ask, someone will surly throw a tissy fit. Do some research on where to purchase, you will find your answers.
I DO NOT do them here, dont ask, someone will surly throw a tissy fit. Do some research on where to purchase, you will find your answers.
Last edited by Bad Blue WS6; 07-23-2008 at 08:58 AM.
07-23-2008, 11:10 AM
#5
Dude you wander around this board sati g the exact same BS to every person that ports throttle bodies about the edge of the lip. Do you understand the first thing about making power? If you did then you wouldn't be leaving the lip still there in the bore, look at the difference with mine. Explain to me what the point is when you dont even open the bore up, that is the entire point. That right there says you are using the wrong tools and are focusing on the wrong areas. According to you shaving 2mm from the inside of a lip is more important than actually porting the bore to match the intake neck? And i hope that isn't your polished exterior, looks like my cat used it as a scratching post.
I will put anything i do up against you on the dyno or track any time you are ready in back to back testing. Tired of you jumping into peoples threads saying the same useless thing. Stick to your dremel and ebay dude, i have more single digit cars to build thanks.
I will put anything i do up against you on the dyno or track any time you are ready in back to back testing. Tired of you jumping into peoples threads saying the same useless thing. Stick to your dremel and ebay dude, i have more single digit cars to build thanks.
07-23-2008, 11:12 AM
#6
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sure thing dude. lol. I dont wander around the boards,,im on here all the time for for my own well being. latley for rear end stuff, as i just completed my 12 bolt install. I seen your thread and looked out of curiosity. I havnt even really spoke up on any TB threads latley, cause everyone else always knows best,,like you! Dont want to start a war man, so cool you jets, and move on. Scratching post was a nice analogy, really its funny, i laughed, casue it is rough. ..no its not polished at all,,i just cleaned it up (casting marks) is all. Last one i sold on ebay went for over 2 benny's ,,,by buyers bidding,,,had nothing to do with me (i think it started at a buck),,and that was freakin months ago.
the only reason the lip would make any diff, is as working though the body, you start form the lip and go back, so if the lip isnt worked, chances are the bore isnt worked very well either. But since your an expert as you mentioned,,you already know this. To each his own, didnt mean to **** in your cheerios today. have a great day.
the only reason the lip would make any diff, is as working though the body, you start form the lip and go back, so if the lip isnt worked, chances are the bore isnt worked very well either. But since your an expert as you mentioned,,you already know this. To each his own, didnt mean to **** in your cheerios today. have a great day.
Last edited by Bad Blue WS6; 07-23-2008 at 11:26 AM.
07-23-2008, 11:38 AM
#7
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Dude you wander around this board sati g the exact same BS to every person that ports throttle bodies about the edge of the lip. Do you understand the first thing about making power? If you did then you wouldn't be leaving the lip still there in the bore, look at the difference with mine. Explain to me what the point is when you dont even open the bore up, that is the entire point. That right there says you are using the wrong tools and are focusing on the wrong areas. According to you shaving 2mm from the inside of a lip is more important than actually porting the bore to match the intake neck? And i hope that isn't your polished exterior, looks like my cat used it as a scratching post.
I will put anything i do up against you on the dyno or track any time you are ready in back to back testing. Tired of you jumping into peoples threads saying the same useless thing. Stick to your dremel and ebay dude, i have more single digit cars to build thanks.
I will put anything i do up against you on the dyno or track any time you are ready in back to back testing. Tired of you jumping into peoples threads saying the same useless thing. Stick to your dremel and ebay dude, i have more single digit cars to build thanks.
Trending Topics
07-23-2008, 11:39 AM
#8
You question my work with pics of useless dremeling in the wrong areas and I get defensive, you will live its ok.
Lol, start from the lip?? So you work the area that is already open by design and does NOT determine the proper shape and size of the port work for max efficiency and dig backwards into the area that actually DOES determine it...hoping the bore size you create is not mis-shaped or sized for the front area you already hammered away at...
I rest my case. You have no idea what the **** you are doing, please sell your dremel to a woodworking student.
Lol, start from the lip?? So you work the area that is already open by design and does NOT determine the proper shape and size of the port work for max efficiency and dig backwards into the area that actually DOES determine it...hoping the bore size you create is not mis-shaped or sized for the front area you already hammered away at...
I rest my case. You have no idea what the **** you are doing, please sell your dremel to a woodworking student.
07-23-2008, 11:41 AM
#9
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sure thing dude. lol. I dont wander around the boards,,im on here all the time for for my own well being. latley for rear end stuff, as i just completed my 12 bolt install. I seen your thread and looked out of curiosity. I havnt even really spoke up on any TB threads latley, cause everyone else always knows best,,like you! Dont want to start a war man, so cool you jets, and move on. Scratching post was a nice analogy, really its funny, i laughed, casue it is rough. ..no its not polished at all,,i just cleaned it up (casting marks) is all. Last one i sold on ebay went for over 2 benny's ,,,by buyers bidding,,,had nothing to do with me (i think it started at a buck),,and that was freakin months ago.
the only reason the lip would make any diff, is as working though the body, you start form the lip and go back, so if the lip isnt worked, chances are the bore isnt worked very well either. But since your an expert as you mentioned,,you already know this. To each his own, didnt mean to **** in your cheerios today. have a great day.
the only reason the lip would make any diff, is as working though the body, you start form the lip and go back, so if the lip isnt worked, chances are the bore isnt worked very well either. But since your an expert as you mentioned,,you already know this. To each his own, didnt mean to **** in your cheerios today. have a great day.
07-23-2008, 11:44 AM
#10
Launching!
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Texarkana, Texas
Posts: 281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You question my work with pics of useless dremeling in the wrong areas and I get defensive, you will live its ok.
Lol, start from the lip?? So you work the area that is already open by design and does NOT determine the proper shape and size of the port work for max efficiency and dig backwards into the area that actually DOES determine it...hoping the bore size you create is not mis-shaped or sized for the front area you already hammered away at...
I rest my case.
Lol, start from the lip?? So you work the area that is already open by design and does NOT determine the proper shape and size of the port work for max efficiency and dig backwards into the area that actually DOES determine it...hoping the bore size you create is not mis-shaped or sized for the front area you already hammered away at...
I rest my case.
this is fun im glad i have nothing to do at work today
07-23-2008, 11:49 AM
#12
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
LOL,,no hammering,,i would just do the whole inside as aposed to just sections of it. thats all. enough said there though, were arguing, and i dont even know you.
i dont feel owned?! but maybe the wife can atest to that persons remarks,,lol..
sorry i even posted on your thread man. take care and have fun with those single digits rides.
i dont feel owned?! but maybe the wife can atest to that persons remarks,,lol..
sorry i even posted on your thread man. take care and have fun with those single digits rides.
07-23-2008, 12:00 PM
#15
No apology needed bad blue, and people argue on technique all the time on things that is how you learn.
Every part of my TB are opened up including the front lip, my point is you need to ditch the dremel, get a real compressor and a mini die grinder and start using abrasive rolls on a 1/4" shank. That bore lip needs to be opened totally to 75mm and then work forward and shape the rest of it in accordance. Front first is running blind and you can create a shape that just promoted tubulance and not much else, you need to think about velocity not just volume of air. Would you use a straw in your drink that had one end bigger in diameter than another? Wouldnt get you anywhere when that booze hits the bottleneck in the straw.
Just maybe not attack a sponsors work when you have some things to learn.
Every part of my TB are opened up including the front lip, my point is you need to ditch the dremel, get a real compressor and a mini die grinder and start using abrasive rolls on a 1/4" shank. That bore lip needs to be opened totally to 75mm and then work forward and shape the rest of it in accordance. Front first is running blind and you can create a shape that just promoted tubulance and not much else, you need to think about velocity not just volume of air. Would you use a straw in your drink that had one end bigger in diameter than another? Wouldnt get you anywhere when that booze hits the bottleneck in the straw.
Just maybe not attack a sponsors work when you have some things to learn.
07-23-2008, 12:21 PM
#16
TECH Addict
iTrader: (41)
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Germantown Hills IL
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
let me try this way,,if you start at the rear, going foward,,your basicly only working the rear. So,,ust as a thought...starting at the front and working to the rear, gives the entire bore a work over,,i think u and i would agree that we cant go over the amount of space that the blade is in, correct? So with that in mind, we need to work the bore to the desired shape and such to maximize the bore going to that area where the blade is. There's the velocity you mentioned. Not all sponsers know everything there is to know,,,not saying you do or dont,,just saying that no one is perfect, sponser or not. And yes, you are correct,,,if i did use a better tool,,it would probably take less sanding drums to get one done. lol I think my Air compresssor is to big to run a lil tool like that though. not sure what my min setting on my air adjuster goes down too. thanx for the no apologies needed, but i jumped on your thread, and pissed you off, and that was not my intentions, so for that, i do apologize. Theres probbaly at least 20 different methods of doing these, and not all those folks would agree that other methods are better, etc, but if we can at least listen to those (as i am yours, and you are mine) then the methods can only get better,,,,and when its all said and done, thats what REALLY counts... when the person buying the TB gets a great working product that they will enjoy using for years and years.
Cheers to ya man.
Cheers to ya man.
07-23-2008, 12:38 PM
#17
how does starting by the blade and moving forward not get the whole unit?
I think you nay be confusing your terms. The bore is the area where the blade is only, which determines the size of the unit in millimeters. Stock is 70mm, where as a LS6 intake is 75mm, thus your problem at hand.
If you open up the face or cup if the unit too much or unevenly in relation to the bore size itself all you will accomplish is something that works like a poorly flushing toilet with air swirling around trying to find its way through the bore. The boor and "bowl" need to be somewhat relative to eachother. Why do you think aftermarket 90mm and such have basically no bowl and are essentially all bore? Bingo, no bottleneck created as air leaves the bowl into the bore.
Opening the bore first tells you what to do with the bowl. Opening the bowl first you run the risk of overporting it in relation to your bore.
I think you nay be confusing your terms. The bore is the area where the blade is only, which determines the size of the unit in millimeters. Stock is 70mm, where as a LS6 intake is 75mm, thus your problem at hand.
If you open up the face or cup if the unit too much or unevenly in relation to the bore size itself all you will accomplish is something that works like a poorly flushing toilet with air swirling around trying to find its way through the bore. The boor and "bowl" need to be somewhat relative to eachother. Why do you think aftermarket 90mm and such have basically no bowl and are essentially all bore? Bingo, no bottleneck created as air leaves the bowl into the bore.
Opening the bore first tells you what to do with the bowl. Opening the bowl first you run the risk of overporting it in relation to your bore.
