Originally Posted by InsomZ

Is that you? Good stuff.

Originally Posted by DaSkinnyGuy

Do you still have a stock shifter, if you dont get yourself a short shifter that will help also

keep on working to get like this...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTSA778AqtA

Originally Posted by venom ws7

You shifts are getting better...
I can;t wait for some nitrous numbers

Here is mine only shifting at 6000-6200rpm

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CTaX3yrZA9A

and another one

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RH9NsHlViao

Originally Posted by LS1 Sounds

Anyone that has driven a manual transmission knows the basic procedure for performing a gear change. Once the car is under way, there are five basic steps that you must perform to complete a successful gear change:

1. You must first lift your foot off of the gas at the shift point. This unloads the powertrain, clutch and shifter, limits clutch disc wear, and makes the mechanical movement of the parts involved much smoother.
2. Depress the clutch pedal to uncouple the transmission from the engine by creating a gap between the clutch disc and pressure plate.
3. While holding the clutch pedal down, you must move the shift lever into the appropriate gear. This will disengage and engage the drive gears, with the corresponding gears on the countershaft.
4. Release the clutch to reconnect the crankshaft to the drive wheels.
5. Depress the throttle to continue accelerating.

Descriptions

* The process that most of us use for typical daily-driving is very casual, and results in what racers call granny-shifting. It is not hard on parts, but it doesn't get you down the road fast.
* In an effort to go faster, you might try increasing the tempo of these movements, resulting in quickshifting, or snapshifting.
* Speed things up another notch and you have speedshifting.
* On the top of the food chain for maxed-out motoring in competition, demands nothing less than an all-out powershift (sometimes called a flatshift).

As most hardcore racers will tell you... powershifting is more than just brutal speedshifting. Timing, touch, and technique are critical. Some racers even consider it an art... Some of the steps listed above are completely disregarded, others are "cheated". One very strict rule to follow, is NEVER LIFT! That's right, you leave that right foot planted solidly on the loud pedal while you cheat your way through steps 2-4.

Since so much technique is involved with this type of gear change, this section will concentrate on the powershift.

Driving Position

In order to properly execute a powershift, you must first be comfortably situated at the controls. No, this does not mean that you want to have your seat leaned waayyyy back gangsta style. You want to use an upright seating position so you have a clear view of the road, and your vehicle's instrumentation. This position also offers you the greatest leverage on the shifter, clutch and throttle pedals, steering wheel, etc.

Flaring

The engine has a natural tendency to rev up quickly while the throttle is matted to the floorboard. If done right, you should be able to keep your engine's RPM from flaring by more than 100-200 RPM between gears. In the lower gears, especially on cars with low rear-end gears, you are going to have to be able to complete each of the integrated clutch and shifter movements as quickly and precisely as possible! This instantaneous action on your part, is what will keep your engine speed from flaring between shifts.

Flaring occurs when you release the clamping forces between your clutch disc and pressure plate, while holding your right foot down on the throttle. Flare wears the clutch disc, creates heat, and slows the progress of both the gear changes, and also the vehicle. Precision is needed to confine engine flare, but dead-on accuracy with the clutch pedal and shifter also limits the mechanical wear and tear that these violent actions impart on the rest of your car.

Powershifting Instructions

The 1-2 gear change is generally regarded as the most demanding, because of the speed at which the revs climb in the lower gears. Anyone that has tried racing a manual tranny will also tell you about the difficulty of finding 3rd gear as well! Upshifting from 2nd to 3rd involves an uncomfortable "dogleg" movement, as you cross through the internal linkage's neutral gate, placing your knuckles uncomfortably close to the dash. Comparatively, the shift from 3rd to 4th occurs at a pretty leisurely pace, but don't allow yourself to slack off because of it! You must execute this shift with as much precision as the rest!

Making these power-on upshifts without allowing engine speed to flare, means that the shifter literally has to be slammed across the neutral gate to engage each successive gear. This slamming involves some aggressive pulling and pushing of the shift lever! But before the lever is even moved, you need to preload it towards the next gate by applying just enough pressure to take the slack out of the stick and counter (but not overcome) the forces imposed by the engine spinning the transmission's gear teeth against each other. Theoretically, preload should be increased progressively as each shift point approaches, but never to the point where the lever is actually moved out of the gear gate that it is in. This preload will eventually lead to a natural "follow-through" motion into the next gear at the instant the clutch is kicked.

Kicking the clutch pedal is a gross oversimplification, as you probably guessed. You are hoping to momentarily reduce the clamping forces between the engine and the transmission, so that in the brief instant that the powertrain unloads... the preloaded shift lever can be yanked into the next gear, without jamming too many spinning parts together.

Kicking the clutch pedal involves more than just pushing it down quickly, and then releasing it. The action is more like a perfectly timed, glancing blow that depresses the pedal only slightly, and then sidesteps (slip your foot completely off the clutch pedal) it in a single downward leg motion. Pedal depression must be limited so that no actual departure (or air gap) is created. Instead, the load between the clutch disc and flywheel is only partially released to allow a gear change to be made, and then allowed to slam shut again and apply the power to the ground. A properly-executed power-on upshift is performed with the clutch pedal instead of the shift lever.

How NOT To Shift!

Just because people tell you to "Drive It Like It's Stolen!", doesn't mean that you should ignore these tips! Don't be fooled, shifting as hard as you can isn't going to make you go any faster. Shifting as quickly as you can will make you faster!

Originally Posted by smok'nZ

venom you car has alot more power than his once you shift that things stays 5500+

Originally Posted by InsomZ

Venom: The z06 video looks like the car is smoking.. i guess it's sun light. LOL both of your cars spin 1st bad. Get some nt05Rs!

Originally Posted by vetteboy99

wa7sh il z06. :-)

Originally Posted by 96onele

LS1 Sounds, great right up! That's what he needs to do next.