Updated: THREE trips to TNT with pics + vids
#441
Learning process
I have a project I’m gonna be starting it’s my first. I have a 91 s10 I’m going to do a 5.3 with with some heads,cam ETC but I’m also looking to do a single turbo set up with an auto trans I’ve been looking at the 4L80E but I’m wondering if they will hold good power? Any information will help
Last edited by Jacob Bruner; 11-07-2017 at 08:08 AM.
#442
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Lots of people seem to do ok up until 7/800hp with just an Hd2 shift kit installed in a healthy transmission. At that point, depending on vehicle weight and 60ft, you are approaching the limits of the stock input shaft. Most builds for high hp include the billet shaft. The main issue I've seen with bone stock 80s is they need to be dual fed internally for hp handling. The Hd2 kit accomplishes this through the valve body mods. Most competent builders can do it with a stock valve body and internal mods if the trans is already disassembled. Hope this helps.
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As of now, with the recent motor swap I haven't done any tuning. I was actually considering taking it out today for a bit. As far as over boost safeties what did you have in mind?
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Good point. Once it's tuned I will look into that. My plan is to tune till 7-10psi on the street, then inch it up at the track. When boost comes in it is hard to put the power down cleanly on the street. So I'm figuring this out as I go....it's different from all the NA setups I've tuned in the past.
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I've determined at this point, 7 psi is enough on the street. It will boil the tires at 80mph rolling into it. I can't see the logic behind running any more boost then what the street will hold. I also don't drive the car much, maybe 200 miles a year. Generally out where I test the car the road is lined with trees so I error on the side of caution when it comes to safety. I believe with a slick I can get a few pulls in in the 7-10psi range, enough to get my timing and VE good enough. I'm also of the mindset that up to 5-7psi you probably won't hurt anything in the engine if you're even remotely close to where the tune should be. The car does have a mwc drag bar on the rear and leaves straight and pretty flat.
#446
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It has 305/40 et streets on it now. It weighs approx 3025 with no driver and hooks considerably better as I add gas to the tank. It almost always hooks at the track on a slick though. I think the *** end is so light isn't helping and to add I don't have a street adjustment for the coilovers, I just leave them at the last setting I ran em on at the track. Also, I'm running on dusty country blacktop roads. No doubt it would hook better if I got on some nice gritty concrete.
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I've determined at this point, 7 psi is enough on the street. It will boil the tires at 80mph rolling into it. I can't see the logic behind running any more boost then what the street will hold. I also don't drive the car much, maybe 200 miles a year. Generally out where I test the car the road is lined with trees so I error on the side of caution when it comes to safety. I believe with a slick I can get a few pulls in in the 7-10psi range, enough to get my timing and VE good enough. I'm also of the mindset that up to 5-7psi you probably won't hurt anything in the engine if you're even remotely close to where the tune should be. The car does have a mwc drag bar on the rear and leaves straight and pretty flat.
#448
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Bad news is I didn't get any tuning done today but I took a buddy for a ride who has never been in a turbo car and he was impressed, so I'm not the only one drinking the turbo coolaind.
#449
I’m wanting it to be quick coming off the line but I’m also wanting to do some roll racing I’m looking to try and make around 800 but I’ll probably have to do some bottom end work. I’m looking to do a e85 set up and wanting to try and run it on around 18+lbs of boost. I’m trying to get as much education in before i start it I’m trying to at least be in low 9s high 8s
#450
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Here is a pic of the coolers, i thought i bought a matching one in size but it turns out it was about 1/3 bigger. Oh well, they fit. The new one is in the center and notice the Ys on the framerail. I changed to black nylon hose and will be buying that from now on, that stainless mesh line is ****, pokes the heck out of your fingertips.
My heel isnt even healed yet and now this. Always wear your gloves gentlemen.....sike I dont wanna die without any scars!!!! This cut was down into the meat LOL.
My heel isnt even healed yet and now this. Always wear your gloves gentlemen.....sike I dont wanna die without any scars!!!! This cut was down into the meat LOL.
#453
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Been a while since my last update. Been building this for a buddy....
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-75-build.html
Not much been going on with mine other then the usual crank up and maybe drive around the yard. Long story short, things appeared great (dont they always) and after bringing the motor to temp one day last week......the oil pressure dropped to 30. Checked the dipstick and yep, it had bearing material on it. It was time for some real soul searching. I chose not to replace engines every 15 miles!!! I also noticed the cylinder heads seemed dry (but no lifter noise). My conclusion is very obviously this motor, as well as the last one, has an oiling issue. But what is it, it eats bearings at 70 psi of pressure. After careful examination of the LS oiling system, Ive concluded the oil is being picked up and pumped at least to the sending unit at the rear top of the engine, but somewhere in the upper galley isnt making the pressure to force it up the pushrods OR down to the rods which are the last two things to get oil. I cant see the rods but if i can get oil to the cylinder heads the rods are getting it too. So how is 70 psi being lost so quickly, internal leak, front cam plate maybe. Once I realized I had installed a new cam plate I said lets keep it simple. You have an oiling system issue, you altered the oil pan/pickup, the oil pan has been on both engines. Lets reinstall a stock pan setup THEN go from there. Well when my buddy brings over a stock pan I look it over. Front of the pan is 5.5" deep, rear is 5", I estimate stock pickup clearance is 3/8"ish. I maintained height when i moved the pickup back So the pickup is literally laying flat on the pan floor if you subtract those measurements, which is causing massive cavitation. I opted to shorten the pickup i had instead of go back to a front sump. You can see how much i cut out here in this pic. I also upgraded to an ICT Billet turbo feed just because i liked the way it looked. And yeah its shooting oil out of the pushrods now Hope i caught it in time.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...-75-build.html
Not much been going on with mine other then the usual crank up and maybe drive around the yard. Long story short, things appeared great (dont they always) and after bringing the motor to temp one day last week......the oil pressure dropped to 30. Checked the dipstick and yep, it had bearing material on it. It was time for some real soul searching. I chose not to replace engines every 15 miles!!! I also noticed the cylinder heads seemed dry (but no lifter noise). My conclusion is very obviously this motor, as well as the last one, has an oiling issue. But what is it, it eats bearings at 70 psi of pressure. After careful examination of the LS oiling system, Ive concluded the oil is being picked up and pumped at least to the sending unit at the rear top of the engine, but somewhere in the upper galley isnt making the pressure to force it up the pushrods OR down to the rods which are the last two things to get oil. I cant see the rods but if i can get oil to the cylinder heads the rods are getting it too. So how is 70 psi being lost so quickly, internal leak, front cam plate maybe. Once I realized I had installed a new cam plate I said lets keep it simple. You have an oiling system issue, you altered the oil pan/pickup, the oil pan has been on both engines. Lets reinstall a stock pan setup THEN go from there. Well when my buddy brings over a stock pan I look it over. Front of the pan is 5.5" deep, rear is 5", I estimate stock pickup clearance is 3/8"ish. I maintained height when i moved the pickup back So the pickup is literally laying flat on the pan floor if you subtract those measurements, which is causing massive cavitation. I opted to shorten the pickup i had instead of go back to a front sump. You can see how much i cut out here in this pic. I also upgraded to an ICT Billet turbo feed just because i liked the way it looked. And yeah its shooting oil out of the pushrods now Hope i caught it in time.
#454
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She's been on the back burner for a bit, other then the pickup tube repair, due to the turbo TA i was building for a buddy. But she went home Sunday so its time to get back on this car and get ready for some personal best springtime ETs. And we know these cars are never done right?
So I had a pretty nice interior in the car, sewed it years and years ago. It still looked new bc of how little I drive my car. As luck would have it I just happen to find someone local who was wanting to refresh their interior......so we struck up a deal. It's time to move on and let someone else enjoy it.
Here's what the guy bought, all 4 seats, and both door panels.
And here's how she sits today.
Not sure if you remember awhile back when i did the lexan windows, and the front and back glass was busted, but when pulling the seats out for the buyer i found this:
Whoops! Well I've got some clean-up to do. On the agenda: (in no particular order) 17" kirkey prostreet drag x2 with the black tweed covers, Wolfe aluminum door panels wrapped in carbon fiber 3m, a custom back seat delete including cutting holes in the floor and flattening it out, remove the passenger door bar which i never got around to doing, may replace that window motor also since its been in my tool box for about 4 years (works but its a little slow), ZR1 MAP sensor, and also gonna ditch the stock PS lines and make up new -6AN lines that route completely away from the hotside. Stay tuned, should be a fun little transformation!
So I had a pretty nice interior in the car, sewed it years and years ago. It still looked new bc of how little I drive my car. As luck would have it I just happen to find someone local who was wanting to refresh their interior......so we struck up a deal. It's time to move on and let someone else enjoy it.
Here's what the guy bought, all 4 seats, and both door panels.
And here's how she sits today.
Not sure if you remember awhile back when i did the lexan windows, and the front and back glass was busted, but when pulling the seats out for the buyer i found this:
Whoops! Well I've got some clean-up to do. On the agenda: (in no particular order) 17" kirkey prostreet drag x2 with the black tweed covers, Wolfe aluminum door panels wrapped in carbon fiber 3m, a custom back seat delete including cutting holes in the floor and flattening it out, remove the passenger door bar which i never got around to doing, may replace that window motor also since its been in my tool box for about 4 years (works but its a little slow), ZR1 MAP sensor, and also gonna ditch the stock PS lines and make up new -6AN lines that route completely away from the hotside. Stay tuned, should be a fun little transformation!
#455
Looked at your interior quite a few times over the years debating on giving it a shot. Never did it though. On the Kirkeys I went with Intermediate Oval tracks. I know you don't have a cage yet but most likely will end up with one. I liked the extra rib protection the Intermediate offered incase something ever went wrong.
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A cage is in the future without a doubt. It's just a matter of which one and when. Safety is a more important aspect now, especially since the stock equipment like abs and airbags is non-functional.
#457
In my thread "02 camaro parts pile" in the drag race section I have a pic of the seats installed. Pretty much the same covers are available as the Pros. Safety takes on a different meaning at some of the speeds people are hitting now days. Plus I'm just getting old I think.
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I've been in fatal wrecks where I was seriously injured, trust me, there is no shame in being able to get out and walk away. Life is not a joking matter.
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Summit dropped off a surprise.
Spent the morning making some simple brackets out of 1.5" wide flatbar. Though the seats are very stable, I think I going to add a backbrace to them temporarily until there is a cage to support the backrests.
After an hour of cussing i got the passenger door bar out. Weighs 8 lbs. Here's the dzus fasteners Im gonna use to hold the new door panels on.
What i will wrap the door panels with....
Rear seatbelts and the little bit of stock carpet in the hatch was 18 lb per my shitty bathroom scale.
The tools I used to get the door bars out, the new -6 line that will be PS hose, and the ZR1 map. You must drill the intake out to 15/32 for it to fit, it is slightly larger.
MAP is installed (waiting on the harness adapter), there is no panels or carpet in the car from the backseat back. Took the seats back out so i can work in the rear. Going to modify the floor and start cutting off brackets I dont need.
Spent the morning making some simple brackets out of 1.5" wide flatbar. Though the seats are very stable, I think I going to add a backbrace to them temporarily until there is a cage to support the backrests.
After an hour of cussing i got the passenger door bar out. Weighs 8 lbs. Here's the dzus fasteners Im gonna use to hold the new door panels on.
What i will wrap the door panels with....
Rear seatbelts and the little bit of stock carpet in the hatch was 18 lb per my shitty bathroom scale.
The tools I used to get the door bars out, the new -6 line that will be PS hose, and the ZR1 map. You must drill the intake out to 15/32 for it to fit, it is slightly larger.
MAP is installed (waiting on the harness adapter), there is no panels or carpet in the car from the backseat back. Took the seats back out so i can work in the rear. Going to modify the floor and start cutting off brackets I dont need.