Hell the heads cam can make more then 5-6lbs SC 
Cammed and Sprayed Or Supercharged
yeah man do the cam and nitrous you will love it more, and yes, i agree the rush from the button every now and then will be a lot better.. go for the cam and spray!!
I went with heads, cam, and nitrous. The torque generated from it really adds to the fun factor.
The supercharger is nice but its much more expensive. You also have to think about your transmission, rear end, and fuel supply. This can add up quick and is obviously a lot of money.
The supercharger is nice but its much more expensive. You also have to think about your transmission, rear end, and fuel supply. This can add up quick and is obviously a lot of money.
I have the magic stick 4 in my car. I love the way it sounds...and it doesnt drive like stock but very very close. I have a really good tune in mine also.
I love the sound of superchargers...especially rooster style...but...when at idle...nothing beats a big beefy cam. I drive mine every day just about...and you like driving it with the bigger cam since you have a m6.
I love the sound of superchargers...especially rooster style...but...when at idle...nothing beats a big beefy cam. I drive mine every day just about...and you like driving it with the bigger cam since you have a m6.
No one can critique and say that he will love nitrous more than a supercharger if youve never owned a supercharged car before. YES they are more expensive to purchase, but they can be just as fun if not more.
Nitrous is just as risky. With the press of a button BOOM there goes your motor. They are both risk factors on a stock block. Its all about doing it the right way the first time.
I went 441/407 on h/c through a 9 inch and 56x/60x on just a 100 shot. Nitrous is very easy to make power..... I love the sound of the whine on the supercharger, and its so much more UNIQUE.. every ls1 has nitrous.......
Nitrous is just as risky. With the press of a button BOOM there goes your motor. They are both risk factors on a stock block. Its all about doing it the right way the first time.
I went 441/407 on h/c through a 9 inch and 56x/60x on just a 100 shot. Nitrous is very easy to make power..... I love the sound of the whine on the supercharger, and its so much more UNIQUE.. every ls1 has nitrous.......
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Either way is good but man i love my cam/spray setup. On the bottle the car is fast *** hell. The only thing is nitrous runs out but its not hard to go fill it up again. My cam and spray setup makes for a pretty deadly street car
Perfect example of what I said not to listen to. No way in hell a 240+ cam drives anything like stock, I dont care if God himself tuned it the cam profile is nothing like stock and it wont run stock like either.
procharger will have stock like driveability with *** loads of power on tap. cam + nitrous will net lower driveability but at a cheaper cost. like the other guys said, power is what you make of it. either setup will get you whatever power goals you wish for, just depends on how deep your pockets are.
for your application (street car), i would do procharger.
for your application (street car), i would do procharger.
This is exactly the **** that gets people in trouble. Couldn't agree with you more.
Yea, maybe not stock. but who the hell wants that. 
I say cam and N20 or heads/cam/N20. That is if you dont mind a slight lope. Though it may not be exactly "stock" drivability, It will get the point across that you arent stock, and with a tune a large cam can feel much more docile that its profile suggests. That said, if you do want stock Drivability and idle by all means take the procharger. i bought a D1 for my 85 monte SS with a 358 and couldnt have been happier. its all in what you want. Nitrous and cam will be a beast when you want it to, whereas a D1 would be slightly more "refined". like i said though, IMHO Heads/Cam/N20 is a hell of a ride 
I say cam and N20 or heads/cam/N20. That is if you dont mind a slight lope. Though it may not be exactly "stock" drivability, It will get the point across that you arent stock, and with a tune a large cam can feel much more docile that its profile suggests. That said, if you do want stock Drivability and idle by all means take the procharger. i bought a D1 for my 85 monte SS with a 358 and couldnt have been happier. its all in what you want. Nitrous and cam will be a beast when you want it to, whereas a D1 would be slightly more "refined". like i said though, IMHO Heads/Cam/N20 is a hell of a ride 
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 27
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I would say go with the supercharger if money isn't a big issue. You will have power there all the time. Versus nitrous which you have to refill all the time,(it will add up after a while.) With a good tune the supercharger and your engine should last a good while. Anything tuned good will last a good while.lets just hope nothing breaks. Good luck in what you decide to do.
Once you spend the money on...
Heads 1200-2000,
cam 350,
gaskets, oil pump, pushrods, lifters, timing chain 500
FAST 90/90 900-1100
Nitrous kit with all acessories 1000
Lid 100
Your already at $4000-5000 for a decent HC +N20 setup plus the additional labor on tearing the entire engine apart +40 per N20 refill each track night
(Go to the track once a month for a year and you've used Just under $500 worth of nitrous)
Procharger kits start right at 3500 used to 5000 New
Choose your poison Both setups will require full exhaust, fuel system, trans rear, suspension etc...
If I had to do it again I'd go with a 8 Rib D1 tuner kit right off the bat
8-10 hours after you open the ATI box you go from 350RWHP to 500-575RWHP@7-9PSI
HC+N20 Is capable of 430-475RWHP on Motor and 550-650+RWHP on N20
Heads 1200-2000,
cam 350,
gaskets, oil pump, pushrods, lifters, timing chain 500
FAST 90/90 900-1100
Nitrous kit with all acessories 1000
Lid 100
Your already at $4000-5000 for a decent HC +N20 setup plus the additional labor on tearing the entire engine apart +40 per N20 refill each track night
(Go to the track once a month for a year and you've used Just under $500 worth of nitrous)
Procharger kits start right at 3500 used to 5000 New
Choose your poison Both setups will require full exhaust, fuel system, trans rear, suspension etc...
If I had to do it again I'd go with a 8 Rib D1 tuner kit right off the bat
8-10 hours after you open the ATI box you go from 350RWHP to 500-575RWHP@7-9PSI
HC+N20 Is capable of 430-475RWHP on Motor and 550-650+RWHP on N20
I got my entire h/c setup for $1325 shipped. That included: heads w/918 springs, cam, cometic gaskets, and chromoly pushrods. I also picked up some new comp 850 lifters for $125 and a few odds and ends. The grand total was less than $1500.