holding rpm at shift points and throttle release
10-26-2008, 03:40 PM
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holding rpm at shift points and throttle release Never had an issue before, here is what I have done recently before I noticed the condition.
Cleaned MAF with CRC MAF Cleaner, used same cleaner on throttle body plate area behind it while opening-closing
Replaced K&N with stock Purolator Air Filter
Put Seafoam in Gas Tank
Put Seafoam in oil, getting changed tomorrow its at 146 miles now.
Replaced PCV Valve
Changed catback from 2 3/4 to 3" and muffler from single in/out Hooker Maxflow to Flowmaster Series 80
Cleaned K&N and reinstalled.
Immediately after I cleaned MAF / did Purolator filter I noticed greatly improved throttle response.
After exhaust upgrade I noticed a loss of power, but that is from the ButtDyno.
About 2 days after I had exhaust done I began to notice loss of throttle response again. It would run WOT great, but not so much putting around town. A few more days, and on the way to work at night I stomped it hard when there were no cars coming/going, it all came back HARD!, for about 5 secs...
then at the normal 2-3 shift , it sounded like it was hitting a rev limiter (steady tone combined with "wa-ka-ka-ka-ka" for 2 to 3 secs) then shifted into 3rd. I have gotten on it alot and that has never happened before.
The next day it popped SES light driving normally, had it checked at Advance, 1 code in the system, a MAF imbalance one I believe.
I found the PCV Valve to be a bit loose, not seated to the rear fully in the boot. Fixed that, and had light reset. I can tell after one day it is pulling better vaccum thru that hose, as the gap between hose - hard tube - hose area is about 1/3 as large as it was when I pushed it together as good as I could with hands.
I cleaned MAF again, cleaned/reinstalled K&N (the band-aid gasket I hear about is nowhere to be found in lid), disconnected battery for a few minutes, restarted and noticed no ill effects on idle (not long enough off battery ?), let it warm up fully, went for a drive......
still seeing a lack of throttle response, general power seems there, takes alot more pedal, and still having the RPM holding issue mentioned in title. The holding r's at shift points after I let off throttle, I hope thats not the trans starting to go.......
Any ideas what I am missing ?
Chewie
Cleaned MAF with CRC MAF Cleaner, used same cleaner on throttle body plate area behind it while opening-closing
Replaced K&N with stock Purolator Air Filter
Put Seafoam in Gas Tank
Put Seafoam in oil, getting changed tomorrow its at 146 miles now.
Replaced PCV Valve
Changed catback from 2 3/4 to 3" and muffler from single in/out Hooker Maxflow to Flowmaster Series 80
Cleaned K&N and reinstalled.
Immediately after I cleaned MAF / did Purolator filter I noticed greatly improved throttle response.
After exhaust upgrade I noticed a loss of power, but that is from the ButtDyno.
About 2 days after I had exhaust done I began to notice loss of throttle response again. It would run WOT great, but not so much putting around town. A few more days, and on the way to work at night I stomped it hard when there were no cars coming/going, it all came back HARD!, for about 5 secs...
then at the normal 2-3 shift , it sounded like it was hitting a rev limiter (steady tone combined with "wa-ka-ka-ka-ka" for 2 to 3 secs) then shifted into 3rd. I have gotten on it alot and that has never happened before.
The next day it popped SES light driving normally, had it checked at Advance, 1 code in the system, a MAF imbalance one I believe.
I found the PCV Valve to be a bit loose, not seated to the rear fully in the boot. Fixed that, and had light reset. I can tell after one day it is pulling better vaccum thru that hose, as the gap between hose - hard tube - hose area is about 1/3 as large as it was when I pushed it together as good as I could with hands.
I cleaned MAF again, cleaned/reinstalled K&N (the band-aid gasket I hear about is nowhere to be found in lid), disconnected battery for a few minutes, restarted and noticed no ill effects on idle (not long enough off battery ?), let it warm up fully, went for a drive......
still seeing a lack of throttle response, general power seems there, takes alot more pedal, and still having the RPM holding issue mentioned in title. The holding r's at shift points after I let off throttle, I hope thats not the trans starting to go.......
Any ideas what I am missing ?
Chewie
Last edited by ChewieFL; 10-26-2008 at 03:47 PM.
10-26-2008, 04:50 PM
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I think you are both could be correct. Hopefully I fixed the vaccum error with finding/correcting the honked up PCV connection.
Spraying the MAF cleaner on and around the inside of TB and TB Plate, could have dried things up, that stuff evaporates very quick. I have Deep Creep that will fix that part of it. New catch can, a RevXtreme unit should get here Monday or Tues. I am waiting on that to do the top end portion of Seafoaming.
No options to check O2's other than looking for codes @ Advance AutoParts.
Chewie
Spraying the MAF cleaner on and around the inside of TB and TB Plate, could have dried things up, that stuff evaporates very quick. I have Deep Creep that will fix that part of it. New catch can, a RevXtreme unit should get here Monday or Tues. I am waiting on that to do the top end portion of Seafoaming.
No options to check O2's other than looking for codes @ Advance AutoParts.
Chewie
10-26-2008, 05:16 PM
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Learned that after 
I had exhaust done up. Can't decide now if I want to get crossflow Hooker Aerochamber or the Magnaflow put on in its place, and in addition to or instead of that, an electric cutout.
Somehow related to the tune that was done (before I got ahold of car, dont have specifics other than flashed to a 02 SS VIN, and + line pressure on trans).... could the 80 series actually be contributing to problem in subject line ? Other than that, yeah it flows worse.
I had exhaust done up. Can't decide now if I want to get crossflow Hooker Aerochamber or the Magnaflow put on in its place, and in addition to or instead of that, an electric cutout.Somehow related to the tune that was done (before I got ahold of car, dont have specifics other than flashed to a 02 SS VIN, and + line pressure on trans).... could the 80 series actually be contributing to problem in subject line ? Other than that, yeah it flows worse.
Yeah. They are junk... Trending Topics
10-28-2008, 08:30 AM
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update finished seafoam yesterday, stopped to get some more gas, reset SES light via fuses under the hood method, (light popped immediately when i cranked car over after deep creep portion and cooldown.)Directly before seafoam, water flushed radiator and cooling system, refilled with watter wetter, deathcool, and distilled water. cleaned maf again.drove to friends shop to borrow lift to change oil and replace fuel filter.
Car is running better, but inconsistent throttle response, and, on the way to the shop, after i got on it to about 65 in Drive, took my foot off gas, slowed down... then without me touching gas pedal, car surged and revved hard for 2 secs. This was 10 miles or so of driving after i had blown all the seafoam on to hippies.
IMHO, I Idle too damn good, as in perfect, to have a vaccum leak. 2 Biggest things I am still noticing are crap happening in/on/around shift points, and then the inconsistent throttle response.
Popping code p1133 which i gather is 02 sensor the slow switching bit. It used to take much longer to come back after a reset, BUT that was with smaller I pipe, worse flow, and a very very dirty k&N, and dirty MAF. Fixed all that in spades, so I can see where it woudl be worse for the cooler exhaust @ sensor....
Which brings me to....... how to conclude this ? How can I diagnose, is problem bad/improper tune, that was on the edge of workable before, that now is messing with T response and shifting, because of changes to intake and exhaust (perhaps it was tuned while dirty, its possible, i didnt do it
) (I.E. Need full dyno tune), or 02 sensor that was weak before, getting hurt a bit by exhaust and flow changes, and finally killed off by seafoam....Hell, I have also heard weak battery can cause this
AFAIK batt is good, its alternator (1 diode problem) or the mysterious loose ground. I have intermittent, but often occuring flickering lights. all of them. volt gauge on dash does seem to move around somewhat, yet when it is put on machine, battery, alternator, charging voltage all test good.
Lookin at goin for full tune next and dont want to waste my $$$ or my and the tuners time, by showing up and finding out, "hey guy, we cant go further untill you fix x y z"
Chewie
Last edited by ChewieFL; 10-28-2008 at 08:39 AM. Reason: did change tires same size, but worn out kumho h rated to brand new Wide Ovals
10-28-2008, 09:19 PM
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Wondering how to make sure, before I go throwing parts at it. That particular code, can be a bad ground/bad circuit from 02 sensor to PCM. If it IS the tune, a new sensor won't fix it. If its the ground, a new sensor won't fix it.
Talked to a local shop today, he mostly does imports from the title of his place, but he gave me a great idea, which is kind of a "duh" I must admit. This particular thing happens quite a bit I have noticed from searches, not just the code, but the code plus other symptoms..... anyway shop guy says, "Just turning off the code is bad idea, until you know why you have it. Swap the sensors around with each other, and see what code(s) pop." He is perfectly willing to have me stop by and set it to no error report, but wants me to try this first. Man, can't believe I forgot that..... Basic Troubleshooting 101...... swap problem out with known good part....
Chewie
Talked to a local shop today, he mostly does imports from the title of his place, but he gave me a great idea, which is kind of a "duh" I must admit. This particular thing happens quite a bit I have noticed from searches, not just the code, but the code plus other symptoms..... anyway shop guy says, "Just turning off the code is bad idea, until you know why you have it. Swap the sensors around with each other, and see what code(s) pop." He is perfectly willing to have me stop by and set it to no error report, but wants me to try this first. Man, can't believe I forgot that..... Basic Troubleshooting 101...... swap problem out with known good part....
Chewie
10-28-2008, 10:11 PM
#11
Yup. If you swap them from side to side it will change the first number I believe from bank one to bank two. Should look something like p1102 then p2102. I'm pretty sure those are the right numbers, but thats just an example. You could also simply unhook them. If its a bad O2, then it should stop that all together. You'll still get the same code, but it won't cause that since it won't be hooked up. Just unplug them, and if it stops, theres your problem. You will still get a SES light though.
10-29-2008, 05:33 PM
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Call it resolved, trans fluid was a bit low , and I picked up new 02's and spark plugs. Loks like it was 2 or 3 simultaneous issues and not just one.
Chewie
Not exactly resolved. Combined threads and dealing with issues in PCM section. Pretty close now (I hope). Thanks for the help.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1#post10399231
, and I picked up new 02's and spark plugs. Loks like it was 2 or 3 simultaneous issues and not just one.Chewie
Not exactly resolved. Combined threads and dealing with issues in PCM section. Pretty close now (I hope). Thanks for the help.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...1#post10399231
Last edited by ChewieFL; 10-31-2008 at 07:44 PM.
