would i get away with just changing the plugs and not the wires?
#41
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i'm in serious need of probably a 1998 picture guide line for the passenger side. if anybody can provide this, then i will remember you alwayz.
remember this is my first spark plug job what so ever.
the most tactical thing ive done besides this is a fuel filter change.
so you can tell where i stand amongst you fellas when it comes to car work.
but listen, im still new, young, eager and really want to do all my work myself.
this is basically the start of something new to me. thanks for the continued support, techs!
im trying to stay positive. im pretty much the only one in my relatives/friends that is in to WORKING on cars, so thats definitely a disadvantage for me as well.
remember this is my first spark plug job what so ever.
the most tactical thing ive done besides this is a fuel filter change.
so you can tell where i stand amongst you fellas when it comes to car work.
but listen, im still new, young, eager and really want to do all my work myself.
this is basically the start of something new to me. thanks for the continued support, techs!
im trying to stay positive. im pretty much the only one in my relatives/friends that is in to WORKING on cars, so thats definitely a disadvantage for me as well.
Last edited by Nickstock98t/a; 11-04-2008 at 08:47 PM.
#42
do the back passenger one from under the car. Its easy once you find the right angle to get to everything. Also, you dont have to disconnect the A/C.... Thats a waste of money.
#43
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i have no plans to disconnect the A/C
i want to get the rail pack off though as instructed by www.installuniversity.com
but apparently 1998's dont have a rail! so i have to do it individually, but like i said, im so new to this that some sort of picture guideline form a 98 would help tremendously.
#46
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I do them all from above, with or without the coil packs off. The only difference on your 98 is that you can't take the coils off on the rail, but they still all simply unbolt from the valve cover, it's no harder
#47
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#48
Then I think you should take this as your first lesson, dont try and start any projects without having all the necessary items. If your going to be working on your own car you need at a minimum some ramps and basic tools, at least a good jack, or all your going to be able to do is change the air filter.
#49
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btw those ngk tr-5's on my driver side were 40mm out of the box
but i gapped hem at 60 with the tool because thats what it says on our engine bay
i then proceeded to talk to some guys at the local shop and they said i should of left it at 40
but they said if all is running fine i should be fine. all seems fine. what do you think?
but i gapped hem at 60 with the tool because thats what it says on our engine bay
i then proceeded to talk to some guys at the local shop and they said i should of left it at 40
but they said if all is running fine i should be fine. all seems fine. what do you think?
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no change them to .060, i just replaced my NKGs for the Delco professional ones and honestly the Delcos run better. Anyways i hear ya, i felt this way with my header install, i did it when i was 17 (18 now) and yes i have a 98 as well. i felt lost, best advise given to me: if you start cussing and swearing, take a break. with ls1's they are a bitch any other time that you arnt driving them.
now for the plugs, they are only tight when they are torqued down. try to wiggle a socket in and break it loose, from there try to use your hand to get them all the way out. make sure they are at .060 and put anti seize on them. for the back passanger side go from the bottom, just jack it up or get it on a lift, its realllllly easy from the bottom.
just keep busting knuckles until you get them done and take your time. i replaced my wires as well when i was doing them and put in new MSD wires. but just my 2 cents. best of luck
now for the plugs, they are only tight when they are torqued down. try to wiggle a socket in and break it loose, from there try to use your hand to get them all the way out. make sure they are at .060 and put anti seize on them. for the back passanger side go from the bottom, just jack it up or get it on a lift, its realllllly easy from the bottom.
just keep busting knuckles until you get them done and take your time. i replaced my wires as well when i was doing them and put in new MSD wires. but just my 2 cents. best of luck
#51
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I really like the Delcos, they were the cheapest Iridium plug.
I had 70k on my stockers when I pulled them out, they looked like they were still in real good shape. The elctrode was not rounded at all.
I had 70k on my stockers when I pulled them out, they looked like they were still in real good shape. The elctrode was not rounded at all.
#53
btw those ngk tr-5's on my driver side were 40mm out of the box
but i gapped hem at 60 with the tool because thats what it says on our engine bay
i then proceeded to talk to some guys at the local shop and they said i should of left it at 40
but they said if all is running fine i should be fine. all seems fine. what do you think?
but i gapped hem at 60 with the tool because thats what it says on our engine bay
i then proceeded to talk to some guys at the local shop and they said i should of left it at 40
but they said if all is running fine i should be fine. all seems fine. what do you think?
I just left mine at the stock specs.
But that may be where that guy got his info from.
#54
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I have been running NKG plugs (copper) for 172,000 + miles..used the TR 55 plugs when the engine had stock compression and then switched to the TR 6 plugs with the installation of after market heads with higher compression...all were gapped at .055...I change mine every 6 months or 15,000 miles..I like to "read" the plugs .. your plugs will tell you a lot about how your engine is performing...