What mods would I *not* want on an LS1 I want to buy?
#21
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i have a magazine article " ls1 dos and donts " ,pm me a fax # if you'd like. if you start modding it never ends (teehee). air lid, catback, headers, tune!! just my 2 cents, good luck
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And I know all about it never ending...My old Cobra was stock for three years, then I put some UD pulleys on it....a year later, I had full exhaust, blower, 4.30s, E/T Streets, brakes, etc. etc.
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I 2nd that! It just is a major turn off because you know they used it. Unless they have the supporting mods for it. When they say "never been sprayed", i don't know anyone that puts nitrous on their car and doesn't use it.
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personally i would want one with nothing on it. when i got mine it was bone stock and only had 40k on it, doing the mods your self is the best part and i must say you havnt moded an f-body till you install a pair of LT's. but my point is if you can find one bone stock theres less chance it has been ragged on just my opinion
Buy one that is bone stock! If it's had ANY modifications, somebody beat the **** out of it, and now it's for sale.
There are no guarantees either way, but put the odds in your favour that you are buying a car that still has some life in it.
Think about it: Compare two used cars that are identical, except one has headers and one doesn't. Which one has spent more time spinning at over 6,000 RPM?
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Messing with An F-Body MAF without 500+ horsepower or Standalone management is just asking for trouble down the line. Think like a car that had nitrous on it for a while. Hidden damage waiting to wreak havoc on your wallet.
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Of course, it's unknowns either way unless you know the car/owner very well. I'm kind of leaning toward buying a car here with light mods since I feel that at least in general, I can expect to find a car that was maintained properly, even if ridden harder.
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I agree. But Lots of guys who like to go fast don't care about their cars. I know a couple. I would look to the body to tell the cars tale. I park as far from civilization as possible and check my oil more than i brush my teeth. So truly **** people will keep the car clean inside and out. AND low miles goes a long way to help.
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I personally like one with some suspension done, long tubes (because they're a mild pain) and the lid/flowpack or something of that nature done. This wouldn't make for a car that's built all out for the track and make me think the owner just wanted it to feel a little stronger and perform accordingly...plus wake up the neighbors (and when i say neighbors I mean everyone within a square mile). Maybe have larger wheels and tires already too so I can skip spending the extra grand on getting traction for what I do modify on the car.
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Yeah, that was my thoughts, plus it really depends what you mean by "ragged on". Are a few dozen 1/4 passes any worse than disregarding speed bumps, driving on same oil for 20,000 miles? Or having the stock rear diff fluid in for 130k?
I'm kind of decided at this point that bolt ons, exhaust, rear, brakes and suspension are all overall OK to see as mods on a purchase. Something could f up with those mods, but so could stock parts.
I'm kind of decided at this point that bolt ons, exhaust, rear, brakes and suspension are all overall OK to see as mods on a purchase. Something could f up with those mods, but so could stock parts.
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I bought my car almost 2 years ago with the mods to make the power in my sig. only problem so far has been a dead window motor and alternator. Previous owner modded it and took care of it. I checked the car out in person, bought it and havn't looked back since.
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LTs on a LS1 really aren't that bad. Now on my old LT1,
that sucked. I've installed headers twice now on my LS1, and I'm about to do it for a 3rd when I put in my new cam and heads. My car was bone stock when I bought it except for a lid and filter and suspension mods. Ask the person who you are buying it from questions to see if he know how to take care of his car.
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Put a set of subframe connectors somewhere up towards the top of the list. These cars are bad about getting warped quarter panels and cracked dashes from chassis flex. They're something akin to a wet noodle.
I wouldn't shy away from nitrous any more than blown, turbo'd, stroked or H/C/I cars. Any one of those is as dangerous as the other if it hasn't been done right. Cars with work aren't necessarily beat to hell, but are more than likely driven the way they were meant to be. I see nothing wrong with buying a car that's got a thing or two done, but take pride in the idea of throwing my own goodies at it. Progression of power is my favorite part.
When I got mine it had a lid, cut out and the free ram air mod. I laughed when I found that last one because I was in the process of doing in myself.
I wouldn't shy away from nitrous any more than blown, turbo'd, stroked or H/C/I cars. Any one of those is as dangerous as the other if it hasn't been done right. Cars with work aren't necessarily beat to hell, but are more than likely driven the way they were meant to be. I see nothing wrong with buying a car that's got a thing or two done, but take pride in the idea of throwing my own goodies at it. Progression of power is my favorite part.
When I got mine it had a lid, cut out and the free ram air mod. I laughed when I found that last one because I was in the process of doing in myself.
#39
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Dash cracks are from the cheap plastic + extreme temperatures. Most people's dash crack when the car is just sitting in the sun. Next, the quarter panels are from a really weak crush zone in the rear, and you will get dimples from wheel hop, not chassis flex. Many people that add SFC'c still get the dimples.
Last, these chassis do not flex nearly as much as some like to think, you certainly do not need SFC's. Most people only notice an increase in NVH from them, which doesn't make sense if the are truly making the chassis noticeably stiffer. I've been in a few fbodies with SFC's, one of which I have in a lot before the install. The car felt no different other than the ride was harsher and it caused more noises.
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Very very wrong.
Dash cracks are from the cheap plastic + extreme temperatures. Most people's dash crack when the car is just sitting in the sun. Next, the quarter panels are from a really weak crush zone in the rear, and you will get dimples from wheel hop, not chassis flex. Many people that add SFC'c still get the dimples.
Last, these chassis do not flex nearly as much as some like to think, you certainly do not need SFC's. Most people only notice an increase in NVH from them, which doesn't make sense if the are truly making the chassis noticeably stiffer. I've been in a few fbodies with SFC's, one of which I have in a lot before the install. The car felt no different other than the ride was harsher and it caused more noises.
Dash cracks are from the cheap plastic + extreme temperatures. Most people's dash crack when the car is just sitting in the sun. Next, the quarter panels are from a really weak crush zone in the rear, and you will get dimples from wheel hop, not chassis flex. Many people that add SFC'c still get the dimples.
Last, these chassis do not flex nearly as much as some like to think, you certainly do not need SFC's. Most people only notice an increase in NVH from them, which doesn't make sense if the are truly making the chassis noticeably stiffer. I've been in a few fbodies with SFC's, one of which I have in a lot before the install. The car felt no different other than the ride was harsher and it caused more noises.