traction issues
#1
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What can i do other than radials to keep my *** end from breaking loose. Is there something i can do to get the power to the ground without constantly breaking traction. I have this problem when i shift hard all the way up to 4th gear.
as of right now my car just has full exhaust with dual cherry bombs, headers, and a cam, if that helps any
as of right now my car just has full exhaust with dual cherry bombs, headers, and a cam, if that helps any
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What can i do other than radials to keep my *** end from breaking loose. Is there something i can do to get the power to the ground without constantly breaking traction. I have this problem when i shift hard all the way up to 4th gear.
as of right now my car just has full exhaust with dual cherry bombs, headers, and a cam, if that helps any
as of right now my car just has full exhaust with dual cherry bombs, headers, and a cam, if that helps any
Lower control arms will help you launch better and stop wheel hop. You could also do a panhard bar and torque arm to help put the power on the ground. Check out www.spohn.net they have alot of good suspension parts
Last edited by AlexVette505; 12-10-2008 at 06:06 PM.
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yeah i agree..tires should be first on your list. Some people dont like the nitto's. You cant go wrong with M/T drag radials..for the street i hear good things about the bf goodrich kdw2's
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im in the same boat as sweetsolace
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A buddy of mine had KDW'2 on his 00 SS and he said that even in the rain the tires were "awesome" lol
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suspension wise what i was planning on doing was sub frame connectors rear control arms torque arm panhard bar and some kind of package deal for shocks/springs
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if you're losing traction in 3rd and 4th gear...it sounds to me like your tires are the culprit not the suspension.
on my old bolt on LT1 i had the crappiest tires in the world...but i had several of the suggested suspension mods also....i could chirp 4th on occasion.
swapped out to some GOOD tires (still 245s) and never heard a chirp beyond 2nd gear after that.
sounds like you need tires more than suspension.
i have 17x11 rims on my cammed car now. and they cam with worn nitto DRs. i recently upgraded to the Nitto 555r street tires and traction is almost the same. they are truely awesome tires. and cheaper than many of the high end competition.
if you plan to lower the car, make sure to get the relocation brackets.
on my old bolt on LT1 i had the crappiest tires in the world...but i had several of the suggested suspension mods also....i could chirp 4th on occasion.
swapped out to some GOOD tires (still 245s) and never heard a chirp beyond 2nd gear after that.
sounds like you need tires more than suspension.
i have 17x11 rims on my cammed car now. and they cam with worn nitto DRs. i recently upgraded to the Nitto 555r street tires and traction is almost the same. they are truely awesome tires. and cheaper than many of the high end competition.
if you plan to lower the car, make sure to get the relocation brackets.
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my personal experience in my 3rd gen (in sig) was on the street tires, LCA/LCARB/panhard actually made it spin worse. With ET Streets on, it still spun worse on the street, but would 60ft better at the track.
Added a torque arm, and adjustable QA1 shocks on the rear, and now it will leave on just about any tire I toss under it street or strip. On motor, i can do 1.8x 60s on my 215/60/15s, yes 215's! (best pass was 12.0 @ 117 on the street tires)
My advise, get some good rubber if you can afford it, and afford replacing it as you wear them out.
If not, get the torque arm/shocks/LCAs/LCARBs in that order, unless you have wheel hop, then get it all.
Added a torque arm, and adjustable QA1 shocks on the rear, and now it will leave on just about any tire I toss under it street or strip. On motor, i can do 1.8x 60s on my 215/60/15s, yes 215's! (best pass was 12.0 @ 117 on the street tires)
My advise, get some good rubber if you can afford it, and afford replacing it as you wear them out.
If not, get the torque arm/shocks/LCAs/LCARBs in that order, unless you have wheel hop, then get it all.
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so i could spend around $600 for the tires in the back, get what i want in the front. Then go suspension? Im wanting to solve future problems before i run into them. Figure after i finish my interior i'll go wheel/tire, then suspension parts. Will these drag radials fit on a car thats dropped about 2" ? Another problem i have is if i hit any kind of dip at a decent speed i can hear metal on metal in the back. Im not smart suspension/engine wise so when i looked under the car nothing caught my eye. I havent had a chance to take it to a shop though.
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sounds to me like your exhaust is scraping.
either that or the wheels are hitting the inside of the fender.
run your finger around the inside of the wheel...if they hit the fender....clearance it.
lowered 2" is gonna make traction hard to get. lowering a car is one of the worst things you can do for straight line traction.
either that or the wheels are hitting the inside of the fender.
run your finger around the inside of the wheel...if they hit the fender....clearance it.
lowered 2" is gonna make traction hard to get. lowering a car is one of the worst things you can do for straight line traction.
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car was already lowered. I'm looking to replace it with bilstien shocks and eibach springs. Tires look great, and i can't see where it would be rubbing anything. Im wondering if its something to do with the chassis or something
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can what wheels?
whether a wheel will fit or not depends on the specs of that rim. width, backspace, offset...etc.
given the right rim setup, a 315 WILL fit under the rear end, but if you're lowered you may have more clearance issues.
whether a wheel will fit or not depends on the specs of that rim. width, backspace, offset...etc.
given the right rim setup, a 315 WILL fit under the rear end, but if you're lowered you may have more clearance issues.