406malibu

You have over 90 posts, and no one has told you your a ******* idiot?

1987firechicken

[QUOTE=00PontiacTA;11256273]
Umm the diagnostic thing to do would be to tear down the engine and check all your bearings. They are telling you to replace the engine because you ran it with little to no oil in it and you continue to drive on it. This isn't like your running on bad O2 sensors or your MAF is dirty, you probably wore out a bearing or spun one. This isn't an issue with any sensors, you knocked a hole in your oil pan dude.

Your car is NOT pulling timing btw, it will only pull timing due to knock. If it is pulling that much timing due to knock then you have more serious issues that are setting off the knock sensors like a spun bearing. The closest thing we have to a "limp home" mode is going into a Speed density tune but it will still run well if your tuned for it. I run in SD mode I flashed to it with HP Tuners. The only thing that will put you into SD mode is a failed MAF or other sensors NOT including your oil pressure (basically your MAF and MAP).

Your car is also NOT running lean unless you have a vacuum leak or some kind of unmetered air entering your engine. The way the PCM works is it adjusts your fueling to switch between lean and rich very quickly (called fuel trimming). Only way to have a lean condition is having air come in that isn't measured, this WILL set off an SES light. Your believing the people who told you it would be big $$ to change out a oil pressure sending unit, they just want to scare you into replacing O2's and other needless crap. Ask them for the codes they are pulling off your PCM for the lean condition and other issues, it's hard to diagnose at all if your going off someones word that is trying to make money off you.

Keep it simple, you ran a car with considerably less lube then normal for a decent amount of time. This tells me you put an assload of wear and tear on everything that needed to be lubed. The first step should have been tearing down the engine to make sure the bearing were still good and nothing was scarred or worn down after loosing oil. Sometimes **** happens and it sucks but throwing money at replacing sensors on a dieing engine is just as bad. I believe you will end up having to replace your short block.

ItsNotStock

iTrader: (24)

Yes, I didn't believe he is experiencing knock retard but I was saying that's the closest thing our cars have to the "limp home mode."

The reason people keep telling you it's time for a rebuild is because for the money and time you are going to spend at a dealership you might as well take it to a reputable shop and have it rebuilt.

They charge $90+/hour to diagnose problems and usually end up throwing parts at it until they figure out what's wrong. So say they spend 10 hours, replace a few sensors and you have yourself a $1,200 quagmire. Then they end up telling you your bearings a fried and you need a rebuild. Well tack on another $500-$1000.

Option two would be spending $1,500 to just suck it up and rebuild it, but by one of our sponsors who won't dick you around.

1987firechicken

^^ I was agreeing on you with the "limp mode" thing not critisizing you. I was just trying to inform the OP because it seems that he thinks the car is in such a mode. His car may be pulling timing but it's not because of detonation IMO. If it is pulling it's because something is so trashed after wearing out or spinning it's making enough noise and vibration to trip the knock sensors.

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...nshifting.html

I guess one of our respected sponsors doesn't what he is talking about then When my ls based truck motor (lm7) had a t-stat stick it lost tons of power and the guys on Chevytalk.com told me it cuts off fuel+spark to one bank to help produce less heat. I honestly don't know HOW it works just know I experienced it.

Why do you think limp mode doesn't exist Educate me........I may be wrong but IIRC it is even referenced in the owners manuel. I may be off here though as it has been years since I have read the OM

HDNVALLEY

I'm completely amazed your "mechanic" didn't check the bearings when he had it with a hole in the pan. The only way to know what's inside the engine is to take a look at the bearings. It's not likely you have damaged the cylinder walls in that short a time. If you did trash the bearings you have metal pieces in your oil passages and need to have the block boiled out to clean them out. This means a rebuild. You won't know what to do until you check the bearings.

00PontiacTA

We'll wont a Compression Check tell me if every cyliner is good plus if my block is good! ? Then i dont have to brake it down, The next step would be to check Bearings!!!

00PontiacTA

**** it im selling it to the HIGHEST BIDDER ,,,, start bidding!

HDNVALLEY

That's certainly one way to solve your problem. Good luck with the sale.

RE AND CHERYL

iTrader: (31)

If you drove the car for even a minute after the oil ran out it is only a matter of time before the bottom end goes. I had a SB400 in a 69 Camaro that ran low on oil because of a broken oil sending unit. I onlt saw the oil light flash on once for 2-3 seconds under acceleration. Several months later when I tore it down for other reasons, the mains and several rods were severely gouged. I know this happened when it ran low on oil because the engine only had 10k on it and it was the only time it ran low on oil.

As for limp mode...Yes it has it for certian trans and ignition knock related problems, but not low oil pressure. The oil pressure switch goes straight to the gauge cluster, not the PCM. Older GMs used to have a oil pressure switch hold the fuel pump circut closed, but no more. If you have oil pressure, the fuel pump would run. your lean condition could be the result of bad intake gaskets or a faulty fuel pump. The dealer should have been able to diagnose this.

Also, the mechanic that worked on your car is an idiot. He should have dropped a rod or main cap to see if/what damage was done to the engine.

Re'

ghardester

I compression check could tell iif you broke a piston ring, but that should make a nasty sound. The first thing to go when you run out of oil is the bearings. And it takes no time at all.

Once when I was much younger I rebuilt a VW engine the night before hunting season. It got late and I forgot 1 thing, the oil. The next morning it ran for 5 miles on just the engine assembly grease. The rod bearings melted. But new crank, main and rod bearings and the engine ran for years.

Your rod bearings at least are damaged. Probably the main bearings. Maybe the piston rings.

There isn't an easy fix when you run out of oil. You have to turn the engine off NOW and have it towed.

98cherrySS

iTrader: (2)

C'mon now you don't really want to sell it do you?

01SOMZ28

iTrader: (37)

you can pull the oil pan off with the motor still in the car?

wicked383lt1

there is a place in hialeah that they are fair and do good work. It's on 55st and palm ave. The guy's name if Junior. I forgot the name of the place but, 411 the address.

b.lee

iTrader: (6)

edit: wrong place

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

its more like a reduced power mode. after a wrecked my car and drove it home, with a busted radiator, it got hot a few times, and started laboring itself. i later read that what happens when the engine overheats, the computer changes the firing order on some of the cylinders to protect the engine.

Zerokube

iTrader: (4)

im in coral springs, ill give ya 2k for the whole car lol.

ByeByeRiceBoy317

how much you want for it?

VetteDood

I think the real problem is you need one of these:

NAAllTheWay

yea man, for what its worth, id scrap that motor, my buddy blew his **** up (rod knock) and he bought himself a brand new ls6 shortblock with heads for like 3500, threw a cam in as long as the motor was out, and now it runs 11's. i dont know if you have funding, but if your working, it may be worth a loan. just my .02c....and many people will agree, if you have a junk motor, you may as well throw somethin good back it, not worth it to throw in another stocker.