Does anyone got any tips or tricks on installing these inserts. I just got mine in the mail. They are going in when I install my headers, so my exhaust manifolds will be out of the way. I don't have any special tools, but just the basics. Any info is appreciated.

 

Anyone?

 

I have never installed them but I know there are at least 100 threads with all the information you need, just do a search.

 

Dude I've done a search they are just how people like how they turned out. So if anyone has anything about the install of these puppies please chime in.

 

Your not gonna find anything with a search. Heres some stuff i copy and pasted from another forum.

Tools needed:
-13mm rachet gear end wrench (This is a MUST to do this easily)
-10mm rachet gear end wrench
-Deep and short metric socket set.
-Rachet with a few different extentions and swivel joints
-Flathead Screwdriver
-Vise or Decent sized C-Clamp
-Drill with small bit and a 3/8 bit
-High floor jack with 2 jackstands and a block of wood.
-Vise grips are good to have too

Steps:

1. Disconnect battery since alternator and starter will be disconnected later.

2. Disconnect intake bellow from throttle body with a screwdriver.

3. Using a 15mm socket, take out the 4 A/C compressor and bracket bolts that can be accessed from the hood area. Take off both belts too.

4. Raise car up as high as the jack will allow and place jackstands under.

5. Using a 15mm socket, first take off the idler pulley and then take off the 3 bolts that hold the alternator and bracket on. Then be sure to take the small electrical connector out of the top of the alternator. Then move alternator foward by laying it on the sway bar.

6. Place jack with block of wood up to the oil pan to support the weight.

7. Now you can see the mount area well. What I did was put a set of vise grips on the nut in the back and a 18mm socket on the front to get the mounting bolt out. Go ahead and unbolt it and pull the long bolt out. Now that side of the engine is detached from the chassis. Go ahead and raise the motor a little with the jack to give yourself more room to work with.

8. Now you will take the clamshell that hold the actual rubber/poly mount out. On the top of my driver clamshell there was a heatshield that I had to take off to expose the clamshell to motor bolts. Use a 10mm wrench to get the heatshield bolts off then remove the heatshield. Once the heatshield is out use the 13mm rachet end wrench to take the clamshell bolts out of the motor block. They are in there tight and you will need to use a lot of force to loosen them. The rachet wrench will be your savior when taking these bolts out, without it it is very difficult. On the back bottom bolt I was able to get a long thin socket extention up there to get that one out.

9. Once all 4 clamshell bolts are out you can now pivot the clamshell around till you get it out, it can be kinda frustrating. Once it is out you will notice there are 2 rivets on one end and 3 on the other. These need to be drilled out to split the shell. I first used a very small bit and followed up with the needed 3/8 bit. After it is drilled you cn use vise grips and the C-Clamp to split the shell, it takes some force because each half of the shell is bonded to the rubber mount inside.

10. Once it is split you can take out the old rubber mount and place the new poly mount in there, make sure you place it with the tabs being faced up when it is all done. You can use a vise or a C-Clamp to force the new mount into the shell, once its in put the new bolts in that will hold the clamshell together. Now you are ready to attach the shell back to the motor.

11. Pivot the shell until you get it back in place, remember TABS UP!! Put the shell to motor bolts in, then use the jack to line the holes up and put the long bolt through the mount pedestal. Then just plug the alternator wire back in and mount the alternator and replace the idler pulley. Now we can go to the passenger side.

12. At the passenger side, take out the remaining A/C compressor bolts and move the compressor foward some, then remove the A/C belt tensioner, this will expose the A/C bracket bolts, remove these too and then take the entire bracket and set it aside somewhere.

13. Now go and remove the 13mm starter bolts and drop the starter. then remove the wires from it and set it aside.

14. Remove all electrical connectors that look like they can be in the way. Once you remove them you will have a great amount of room to work in compared to the drivers side.

15. Like the other side, go ahead and remove that 18mm pedestal to clamshell bolt. Then use the 13mm rachet wrench and take the 4 clamshell to motor bolts out. Then go ahead and pivot the shell around until you can get it out.

16. Perform steps 9 and 10 again to break the shell and install the new poly mount.

17. Pivot the shell again to get it in position and then bolt it to the motor. Then use the jack again to line up the holes and push the bolt through. This side was harder to line up since the other mount was already installed.

18. Reconnect the starter, electrical connectors, belts, and the A/C components.

19. Dont forget to reinstall the bolts for the A/C compressor and bracket from the top area. Then just reconnect your intake stuff to the engine.

20. Thats it, youre done fire it up and watch the stillness of the engine in the bay.

I can not stress the importance of the rachet end wrench. That is what allowed me to do this in half decent time. Without it it would have taken me an easy 3 hours longer at least. If you dont have one you better go get one.

I am not sure how much different this install would be with other type headers but since so many have pacesetters, this should help some. I did it in around 5-6 hours.

 

big pry bar, snickers, a few budweisers, and a good friend to help you.

yeah get the A/C and the alternator out, just unbolt them and push them forward-carfully.

they are hard to do, i think way harder than headers, just take your time.

another thing that will help is a punch-to line up the big 18mm bolt.

 

idiot.. search doesnt work like it used to so you cant tell the guy to do a search anymore

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...stall-pic.html

Damn, this took me 30 seconds to find, but thanks, never realized how much of an idiot I was for telling someone to do a search, not that hard, even an idiot can do it. I wonder how much info I could find in another 30 seconds.

 

i did prothane engine mounts during my header install. it was pretty easy, you dont need any special tools and you dont have to remove the starter though removing the alternator is a good idea. its easy to figure out what to do once your down there and have the headers off. dont forget to support the engine and have a good size pry bar handy to move the engine whichever way.

 

Just letting you know, if your doing the polly mm's just so you don't get the banging noise on the floorboard from the y-pipe, then don't bother. I installed stepped style LT headers wit tsp y pipe and have no noises at all, just my .02 , and good luck

 

I guess your the first that it works for then.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/user-supp...-function.html

You must be one of the 4 people to like it out of the 200 that don't..

 

i agree with fcss, the search funtion is crap now. you just get tons of results about other things.

for instance- i have power steering fluid in my cooling system, i tryd finding all sorts of stuff on it, nothing popped up.

the mounts will go good for you man, put em in, you'll love em. and for the extra vibration ive had plenty of people ride in it and they dont notice the difference.