budget mods for now?
#21
Like the guys above have mentioned, get your Throttle Body ported, its like $65. Also, look into a CAI from Fast Toys or Super Sucker $200. Lastly would be an underdrive pulley $200. After that there's not much else you can do except wrap it up with a dyno tune by your local speed shop.$450. I made a full bolt on list earlier this week that a lot of people on this site helped me with.
Engine
CAI ($200) [Fast Toys Ram Air]
Filter ($62) [K&N Air Filter]
Lid ($90) [Slp]
Maf ($176) [Slp]
Bellow ($62) [Slp]
Ported TB ($65) [Spartan Performance]
Intake Manifold ($450-$750) [LS6 or FAST]
Long Tubes/ Y-pipe ($500-$1350) [Pacesetter or American Racing]
Cat Back ($450-$1,000) [Magnaflow or Corsa]
Underdrive Pulley ($200) [ASP or Slp]
1.85 Rocker Arm Kit ($1,000) [Comp Cams or SLP]
Push Rods ($125) [Slp]
Electric Water Pump ($650) [Meziere]
Gears/ Install Kit ($375) [Slp]
160 Degree Thermostat ($54) [Slp]
Dyno Tune ($450) [Performance Shop]
Total = $4900-$6600
Chassis
Shocks ($400-$850) [AGX or Koni]
Springs ($240-$275) [Eibach or Strano]
Watts Link ($650) [Fayes2]
Strut Tower Brace ($125-$200) [Slp or BMR]
Lower Control Arms ($170) [BMR or Spohn]
LCA Relocation Brackets ($89) [UMI]
Sway Bar set ($439) [Strano]
Torque Arm ($275) [UMI]
3-Point Sub Frame Connectors ($300-$350) [Slp or UMI]
K-Member ($500) [BMR or Spohn]
A-Arms ($638) [UMI]
Total = $3800 - $4400
Engine
CAI ($200) [Fast Toys Ram Air]
Filter ($62) [K&N Air Filter]
Lid ($90) [Slp]
Maf ($176) [Slp]
Bellow ($62) [Slp]
Ported TB ($65) [Spartan Performance]
Intake Manifold ($450-$750) [LS6 or FAST]
Long Tubes/ Y-pipe ($500-$1350) [Pacesetter or American Racing]
Cat Back ($450-$1,000) [Magnaflow or Corsa]
Underdrive Pulley ($200) [ASP or Slp]
1.85 Rocker Arm Kit ($1,000) [Comp Cams or SLP]
Push Rods ($125) [Slp]
Electric Water Pump ($650) [Meziere]
Gears/ Install Kit ($375) [Slp]
160 Degree Thermostat ($54) [Slp]
Dyno Tune ($450) [Performance Shop]
Total = $4900-$6600
Chassis
Shocks ($400-$850) [AGX or Koni]
Springs ($240-$275) [Eibach or Strano]
Watts Link ($650) [Fayes2]
Strut Tower Brace ($125-$200) [Slp or BMR]
Lower Control Arms ($170) [BMR or Spohn]
LCA Relocation Brackets ($89) [UMI]
Sway Bar set ($439) [Strano]
Torque Arm ($275) [UMI]
3-Point Sub Frame Connectors ($300-$350) [Slp or UMI]
K-Member ($500) [BMR or Spohn]
A-Arms ($638) [UMI]
Total = $3800 - $4400
thats shitty for around 3 grand you can get a used 408 shortblock with stock top end will make just as much power
alot of those prices and "performance parts" are stupid as fuc!<
#24
My brother and I did some testing on a few performance parts, including descreening the maf, port and polished TB, CAI, and skinny wheels on the front, with back to back runs after each install. I think you might find it a little suprising. Check it out.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
#26
My brother and I did some testing on a few performance parts, including descreening the maf, port and polished TB, CAI, and skinny wheels on the front, with back to back runs after each install. I think you might find it a little suprising. Check it out.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
#28
Everybody's Budget is different. I put up that list so he could see what is available and how much it costs. He didn't even know what a CAI was. LOL, anyone can argue back and forth as to what they think is a well worth it mod, I'm just giving him info to build on and research instead of taking every Tom, Dick, and Harry's advice on what is the "right" mods he should do.
#29
Everybody's Budget is different. I put up that list so he could see what is available and how much it costs. He didn't even know what a CAI was. LOL, anyone can argue back and forth as to what they think is a well worth it mod, I'm just giving him info to build on and research instead of taking every Tom, Dick, and Harry's advice on what is the "right" mods he should do.
btw where you useing spare tires as skinny's?
#30
Yeah, my brother was convinced that skinnies did nothing for improving acceleration, So I bet him if I ran our spare tires in the front that my car would be faster, thats why we only did a run to about 65mph that time. I'm all for them now, I think I'm going to go with Bogart.
#31
Like the guys above have mentioned, get your Throttle Body ported, its like $65. Also, look into a CAI from Fast Toys or Super Sucker $200. Lastly would be an underdrive pulley $200. After that there's not much else you can do except wrap it up with a dyno tune by your local speed shop.$450. I made a full bolt on list earlier this week that a lot of people on this site helped me with.
Engine
CAI ($200) [Fast Toys Ram Air]
Filter ($62) [K&N Air Filter]
Lid ($90) [Slp]
Maf ($176) [Slp]
Bellow ($62) [Slp]
Ported TB ($65) [Spartan Performance]
Intake Manifold ($450-$750) [LS6 or FAST]
Long Tubes/ Y-pipe ($500-$1350) [Pacesetter or American Racing]
Cat Back ($450-$1,000) [Magnaflow or Corsa]
Underdrive Pulley ($200) [ASP or Slp]
1.85 Rocker Arm Kit ($1,000) [Comp Cams or SLP]
Push Rods ($125) [Slp]
Electric Water Pump ($650) [Meziere]
Gears/ Install Kit ($375) [Slp]
160 Degree Thermostat ($54) [Slp]
Dyno Tune ($450) [Performance Shop]
Total = $4900-$6600
Chassis
Shocks ($400-$850) [AGX or Koni]
Springs ($240-$275) [Eibach or Strano]
Watts Link ($650) [Fayes2]
Strut Tower Brace ($125-$200) [Slp or BMR]
Lower Control Arms ($170) [BMR or Spohn]
LCA Relocation Brackets ($89) [UMI]
Sway Bar set ($439) [Strano]
Torque Arm ($275) [UMI]
3-Point Sub Frame Connectors ($300-$350) [Slp or UMI]
K-Member ($500) [BMR or Spohn]
A-Arms ($638) [UMI]
Total = $3800 - $4400
Engine
CAI ($200) [Fast Toys Ram Air]
Filter ($62) [K&N Air Filter]
Lid ($90) [Slp]
Maf ($176) [Slp]
Bellow ($62) [Slp]
Ported TB ($65) [Spartan Performance]
Intake Manifold ($450-$750) [LS6 or FAST]
Long Tubes/ Y-pipe ($500-$1350) [Pacesetter or American Racing]
Cat Back ($450-$1,000) [Magnaflow or Corsa]
Underdrive Pulley ($200) [ASP or Slp]
1.85 Rocker Arm Kit ($1,000) [Comp Cams or SLP]
Push Rods ($125) [Slp]
Electric Water Pump ($650) [Meziere]
Gears/ Install Kit ($375) [Slp]
160 Degree Thermostat ($54) [Slp]
Dyno Tune ($450) [Performance Shop]
Total = $4900-$6600
Chassis
Shocks ($400-$850) [AGX or Koni]
Springs ($240-$275) [Eibach or Strano]
Watts Link ($650) [Fayes2]
Strut Tower Brace ($125-$200) [Slp or BMR]
Lower Control Arms ($170) [BMR or Spohn]
LCA Relocation Brackets ($89) [UMI]
Sway Bar set ($439) [Strano]
Torque Arm ($275) [UMI]
3-Point Sub Frame Connectors ($300-$350) [Slp or UMI]
K-Member ($500) [BMR or Spohn]
A-Arms ($638) [UMI]
Total = $3800 - $4400
#32
My brother and I did some testing on a few performance parts, including descreening the maf, port and polished TB, CAI, and skinny wheels on the front, with back to back runs after each install. I think you might find it a little suprising. Check it out.
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...ing_643805.htm
#34
That has to be some of the worst testing conditions for mods. First you gusy race two different cars with two different mods, different sized people in the cars, and two different drivers. You then take stock parts off his car and switch them with modified parts from your car. You when you guys did your first race you had a P&P TB the maf, and the others, you then put stock parts back on your car. To make your test even a bit more realistic you would have to had left your car alone exactly the way you raced him the first time and then changed parts out on his car. DYNO runs would be the best way to prove gains..
Second, what does the different drivers have to do with anything? As long as we were consistant in our driving/ shifting, all variables would stay the same, except for the different mods which was the only variable we wanted to change in order to see differences in acceleration.
Third, we did not switch parts for the CAI or putting skinnies on the front which was our two main focuses. We just threw in switching mafs and throttle bodies because the majority of people were saying that if you descreened the maf/ ported your throttle body or even if you didn't, there wouldn't be any noticable gains at all. Well, from the video you can see that those two mods can affect your acceleration, whether it be positive or negative.
Finally, I know we could have got on a dyno and done some pulls to see gains/ losses, but what would that translate to on the road? I know I see that this such and such mod makes such and such more hp, but those numbers on a computer screen don't really translate to a lot of people to what it will actually do to their car's acceleration. Thats why I wanted to run a test like this one. Optimally, like you said, I would have liked not to have to switch mods because it skewed accuracy on the data for the maf and TB, but ultimately it showed a difference which is something not many expected. The majority I've talked to on this site have said because we "switched" parts, instead of adding them, the gains would be roughly half of what you saw on the video. So the actual gain of the descreened maf would have been about 3/4 of a car rather than a car and a half if we would have started out being both screened and then descreened one car. And then the same for the TB, both starting with stock, and then adding the ported TB to the test car, about 3/4 of a car, rather than a car and a half.
I can't convince anyone on what to think, that wasn't my goal. All I can do is present the data I've collected and try to answer any questions to clear up discrepancies.
Last edited by TheBlueKnight; 04-29-2009 at 11:53 AM.
#35
Blue knight my point is that you in theory doubled the gains seen by descreen the maf and the tb by switching them. Your car had them for the trial run so in the baseline your car was slow with the modified parts. Not only did you put modified part on the already faster car you in doing so slowed down your car as well with stock parts making the difference greater. To make your test more accurate you would have had to leave you car the exact way it was run in the first race in order to see the true difference in performance. Fair enough I though the video was pretty cool over all..
#37
Blue knight my point is that you in theory doubled the gains seen by descreen the maf and the tb by switching them. Your car had them for the trial run so in the baseline your car was slow with the modified parts. Not only did you put modified part on the already faster car you in doing so slowed down your car as well with stock parts making the difference greater. To make your test more accurate you would have had to leave you car the exact way it was run in the first race in order to see the true difference in performance. Fair enough I though the video was pretty cool over all..
not me i think that video sucked
#39