SS Hood
#4
If your looking to swap to an SS hood then you should also change the lower air box. The ram airs come with a taller air box to allow the increased air flow to make it's way into the air lid.
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#8
That's only on the Ram Air T/A's. The SS has the same airbox as the Z/28 and T/A
#10
You can see a much lower IAT from the SS hood.
But add the SLP CAI to that, and the IATs come
back up big time - stainless steel heat absorber,
right on top of the radiator. So skip the SLP
"Flo Pac", only the lid is worth anything and the
rest just extracts money from your wallet for no
improvement.
If you just baffle off the engine bay from the
"nose pocket", like the piece you see with the
K&N FIPK, you'll force the lid slot to draw from
the forward space and get cooler air. Open up
the foam blocking the "nostrils" in the bumper
and that space will receive adequate ambient
airflow to hold down IATs.
All the performance improvement comes from
pulling air cold enough, not to cause IAT-based
spark retard. Not the coldness itself but the PCM
response to warmness.
But add the SLP CAI to that, and the IATs come
back up big time - stainless steel heat absorber,
right on top of the radiator. So skip the SLP
"Flo Pac", only the lid is worth anything and the
rest just extracts money from your wallet for no
improvement.
If you just baffle off the engine bay from the
"nose pocket", like the piece you see with the
K&N FIPK, you'll force the lid slot to draw from
the forward space and get cooler air. Open up
the foam blocking the "nostrils" in the bumper
and that space will receive adequate ambient
airflow to hold down IATs.
All the performance improvement comes from
pulling air cold enough, not to cause IAT-based
spark retard. Not the coldness itself but the PCM
response to warmness.