OK...so did this mod for idiots-changed out air lid and well guess failed idiot test...because now trowing P0410 code. Secondary Air Intake.

Well, have changed the bellow-brand new (one in there had a hole in it could see where previous owner had tried to patch it. Tried SLP bellow no play to clamp air lid down went back to OEM accordion bellow), changed IAT sensor, put in a K&N breather filter. Still get code.

After did all this I manually cleared the code and then 36 hours later IT IS BACK.....

This is a Whisper Carbon Fiber Lid. Called Whisper Motor Sports Technical Support and they told me "NOT TO USE AFTERMARKET PARTS" so have ordered a GM IAT sensor to replace the brand new Duralast IAT just put in...

Well, so I have a aftermarket part distributor telling me not to use aftermarket parts....AAAAHHHHHH!!!!!

Anyway, was thinking of changing out check valve cartridges in the air pump. Can anyone explain to me or point me to pics up here where that is located PLEASE!!!!!!

I think it is somewhere on the driver's side of the car near front wheel...but not sure.

 

Its right behind the driver fog light, there is an access hole you can release with 2 bolts from under the bumper

 

The check valves are the round black things right off of the manifolds where the piping changes from metal to rubber.

Did you reconnect the hose to the lid? Are there any kinks in the hose? Did you check the AIR pump fuse?

 

take that stupid thing out. get the codes deleted. problem solved.

less clutter = win

 

WAIT WAIT....OK SENSOR JUST CAME IN THE MAIL....GOING TO INSTALL IT NOW...

QUESTION: HAVE BEEN TOLD 2 THINGS-SO DO I RESTET CODES MANUALLY? OR DO I JUST INSTALL SENSOR AND ALLOW THE ENGINE TO CYCLE AND LET CODE DISAPPEAR ON ITS OWN?




LOL I do know what check valve cartridges are I do high end technical support for chemical instrumentation...including all kinds of pumps....

I was thinking it might be the cartridges if the air flow has changed some because of the lid replacement. That can happen-they are directional there is an inlet and an outlet check valve cartridge on every pump....so was going to check...

There is no connection on a Whisper lid for the hose...hence the K&N breather filter. No kinks in that 3/4 inch ID hose...do not see any...pretty big hose to miss that.

AIR PUMP FUSE....IS IT IN THE AIR PUMP? THINK I read somewhere it is in that pump?????

OK I think this is wierd...because no problems with anything until I did this...so by virtue of changing out a piece of plastic for a nicer look I have tripped a code P0410 I cannot get rid of???????

If I cannot figure this out then Car-X or Pepboys is gonna cost me even more...this should be so simple...and I mean K&N filter WHY???? According to everything I have read you could stick a pair of panties in that hose and would serve the same purpose...


SO WHAT THE HELL IS GOING ON???? This is driving me nuts...should be an easy fix...

 

TAKE WHAT OUT....THE AIR PUMP??? DO NOT THINK i WANT TO DO THAT...What advantage do I get from doing that...and I am sure will have to tap/seal off some lines somewhere if I do...

So have instructions for that????

 

Chill on the caps lock.

Ok, its pretty simple. Go under the driver's side front nose part. There will be several bolts holding a black panel on under there. Get a 10 mm socket, remove them, push panel out of the way.

Next, find the bolts to the air pump, also 10 mm I believe there, take out the bolts, some are hard to see and get, but if you stick with it you'll get them out.

Unplug the electronic connector piece, pull off the air hose on the air pump. Pull the tubing out and take it out of the back of the intake manifold. I put a screw into the part to seal it there.

Now pull out the tube that goes to the lid. Block it off. I used aluminum tape and then switched to a large body panel clip, again.. very easy.

For the next part you either have to get block off plates or make something to go over the exhaust manifolds to seal them in place of the air lines.

Once you're done that, you've taken out the air system. Get the code tuned out and go about your life.

 

This is my work computer and CAPS LOCK STICKS ALOT...SO HAVE TO FIX IT ALL THE TIME....IT IS NOT ON PURPOSE...This is a loaner till they get my real computer fixed....

OK WELL....for now I have opted to replace the Air Pump Fuse and the IAT with a GM sensor. I cleared the code manually and replaced the air pump fuse.

The code has cleared-for how long well we will see. Have to pick up a few things at Pepboys-will take it for a drive.

Look sorry not into major engineering projects (sealing the exhaust manifolds with plates as opposed to the air lines is not what I was looking to do) and I like my car the way it is. If this does not work I will replace the RAM AIR LID...that is an option.

I seem to have encountered the exact same issues when I wanted to replace my dipsticks with chrome and or aluminum. All I wanted was a replaecement dipstick that was shiney...not a $100.00 hour install major engineering project OMG going to lose oil and trans fluid. So returned those and painted what I have.

This was supposed to be a simple install not a major engineering project with well now let me change the DNA of my car especially since I love it and bought for what it was.

No offense everyone likes what they like. I just wanted a nicer looking engine bay and thought the Whisper CF Lid would give me that. So hope the code stays gone.

So lets see if the codes stay gone...and Thank You All for the help-greatly appreciated.

And I know where the air pump is now and how to change the check valve cartridges.

 

i just took it out of my car... just a waste of space and it doesnt do anything.

 

You can do either. I would prefer to clear them now just so you don't have to see that light.



You fucked up a lid install. How do we know your qualifications?

The fuse is in the fuse panel with the rest of them. I'm sure whatever the problem it's an easy fix. If nothing else just get the code disabled then you can take the air pump off at a later time if you need/want to.

 

lol i say... weight savings! it doesn't really do all that much anyway to justify the clutter.

 

MMM...do not think I fucked anything up.

Lid looks fine, MAF is fine, K&N filter went right over the hose just fine. Had a replacement sensor and grommet as outlined in the instructions for the Whisper Lid Install.

According to Whisper Motor Sports did everything right except replacing the sensor with an OEM sensor....so just did that.

I think you kind of get me wrong...it whas the reference to the black thingy (check valve cartridge location-assembly)....made me LOL use that all the time...

And well seems to me if I read all the posts on various forums...then well a large part of the Trans Am population has had the same exact code issue with the Lid Replacements. In fact far more than I have had...usually 3 of them...

So would kind of think if it is an AIR PUMP ISSUE and that that AIR PUMP does no good except take up space...then it should be mentioned somewhere in intsall instructions or some STICKY somewhere-that it needs to be removed.

Searched and search...could not find a thing.

Seems to be gone for now. Lets see if it stays gone. Did get alot of help here today so Thank You!!

 

OK well have it up on ramps...will take a look and see what I can accomplish...cannot imagin eGM putting anything in a car for NO REASON...but if it is going to trip codes all the time now that I have changed out the lid...well will consider removing it..

 

who cares about the code honestly. you know what its from, you caused it. go contact frost, get your car tuned, get the code turned off, be happy.

 

Well so far so good looks like changing the sensor and fuse worked. I would say that remark is pretty much indicative of what I said earlier.

If you know that this swap will cause erros then state it - then say so. If I had known that from the start I would have left the RAM Air Lid in place.

I cused what? i did a lid swap and I caused this-YEAH simply by changing thew LID OUT...I cused this...so then the previous post is inaccurate and incorrredt....I could not have possibly fucked up a lid install because simply by changing it out it ***** up my car....

WELLA and finally truth comes to the surface...basically any of these aftermarket modifications will/can **** up your car. Done deal....So there is nothing in place says any of these installs will be correct.

So if it errors again I go back to 100% stock lid.


But thanks for the advice...hindsight is 20/20....too bad none of this is in the manuals, installation instruction, etc...some people do read.

 

the air pump is in the car to help bring the cats to temp so that they work sooner than without the extra "air" (oxygen). dont know if its been stated yet, but thats the reason for the pump. obviously, if you go to "race-style" headers or take out the cats, then there's no reason to have the air pump.

fwiw, i have the carbon fiber mti lid and there was no hole or opening for the little k&n filter.

 

NO...that was not explained. And Thank You for taking the time to do so. I was able to find out that with LS6 intake it is not needed.

Also, what was never addressed...was finally on fbodyonline.com-the lid should work with my system as is-I should not be throwing these codes.

Finally, one guy answered me-and really it was the sensor and well maybe fuse too...but I have installed the GM IAT sensor and changed the air pump fuse...and I am still good today-NO SES CODE.

I plan on pulling this lid I want aTSP lid-I know they are no longer made...but have few friends helping me find one. IF MTI made a black one I would get it. I have a plan for my underhood-just do not want huge decals on the lid that say SLP or FTP...There is a black Whisper Lid I can get at Lingenfelter Performance; but, I think I will have the same fitament issues. Clips are still popping-Llid does not pop up but clips pop off they do not clamp down.


Then I will take this and have it installed in my black Firebird.

I will not be putting headers in my car. I do not intend to race my car.

Thank You so Much for the very LOGICAL and Staright Forward explanation. I have a better handle on things now.

 

no problem. my mti lid wasnt to great of a fit either, at least not what i expected it to be. however, mine does stay clipped down, but you damn near have to break it to get the tabs on the front to insert.

 

One of my friends swears by the MTI lid-just do not see one anywhere in black. OK he has a MTI clear and a black TSP.

So I am trying to find a TSP lid. Used of course since it is no longer made. But I have decided I am going to HIG GLOSS IT-will be HIGH GLOSS BLACK...now that would be awesome ...

I am just afraid will have same problem with black Whisper Lid-and SLP has raised letters..and do not like the FTP letters...so limited now right???

Most iportant that SES error has not come back at all. Keeping my fiongers crossed that putting in that GM IAT sensor and changing the air pump fuse fixed it.

Now I have heard from many people that that IAT sensor has to be GM and it is calibrated differently from the aftermarket sensors.