SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

Harder ($$$$$) than most of the guys on here make it out to be.......

Goober79

So....Everybody throws around oh just put a stall on there, cam, tune, etc. But, what I want to know is honestly how well, when you are a college student that drives their car everyday and twice a year takes the trip from New Jersey to Florida(yea I know it sucks), does a 3600 torque converter actually drive on the street? I've heard that if you get a TC that has a 2800+ stall, that it winds out like a slipping clutch, which sounds like crap. That's the question I've been pondering for about a year now cause none of my friends have stalls in their cars and I can't really feel the seat of your pants feeling from just reading text on a screen.

brians91formula

iTrader: (12)

Mid - low 11's can be done on a properly set up cam only car with all the supporting mods and a good driver.

stumprrp

iTrader: (2)

you can have my car for 5500 and it runs 11.9, lol

honestly, a 200 shot, drag radials, and a perfect tune will get you mid 11's and only cost probably 1200-1500 bucks

nightmare23

iTrader: (5)

u can get ur fully bolt on ls1 in the mid eleven with some good suspension and just slap on a cam ... and well low elevens heads ... maybe tens

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

A good stall like the Yank SS3600 won't really drive much different than stock. There isn't really a seat of the pants feeling. To be honest from a roll my PT4000 doesn't feel as responsive as my stock stall, due to the stall speed kind of softening the hit. But I gained 7 tenths and 3 mph in the 1/4 with it.

A good stall and a mild cam will get you mid 11s in a near full weight car in good weather. You should get one and show all of your friends what's up.

Havok2

iTrader: (118)

i run mid to high 11s
cam only
full bolt ons
3600 stall

NSSANE02

iTrader: (14)

And a decent amount of weight reduction. For low 11's at full weight you'll need bolt-ons, cam, some suspension, stall/clutch, and a rear end if you want to run consistantly.

doomsdaymachine

i have seen people with full bolt ons heads and cam run
mid to high 11s even low 12s.

and a few high elevens with stock internal
my personal goal.

blakern

iTrader: (9)

Whats ur elevation? Just curious. A lot of people over look that. Any of you 11 sec guys ever took ur cars 10000ft?? It will feel like a turd, trust me.

sslateron

What about M6 cars? What type of WHP are we looking at here?

blakern

iTrader: (9)

Alls im saying is cars in my area run 14.0s stock and 13.0s with full bolt-ons and DRs. I ran 13.0 with full bolt-ons, tune, stall, and DR's. So its a little harder for some people. DA usually 3000-3500 at my local track.

Some guys have it easy at close to sea level and good DA all the time. If you dont believe me search user name Mr. Luos. Guys from Colorado and has a built 402 and only runs 11.9s!!! With 530rwhp.... But thats at 5800ft with 7900 DA.

JonCR96Z

iTrader: (33)

A good rule of thumb is .1 for every 1000 ft of DA. I find that the ait temp usually means more than overall DA. I've ran 11s in 2500 DA on an 80+ degree day with just bolt ons. Could I go to 5000+' of elevation and run that? No. But you shouldn't be that far off. Your car just isn't fast.

Bugsy

iTrader: (1)

What you have heard about the driveability of a stalled auto is simply a fallacy. My Vigilante did not adversely affect driveability, in fact, I feel it greatly improved it! It made the car much more fun to drive, which is why I always recommend to anyone who buys a stock A4, to choose a stall as their first mod.....just as I did. It is capable of transforming the personality of your vehicle. In normal driving, I really don't even notice a difference over the stock one, until I lay into it. Now, a very high stall can adversely affect your car's driveabilty, but 2,800, 3,000, etc. is nothing. Just add a trans cooler. After adding the Vig to my otherwise stock car, I DID feel a "seat of the pants" difference, both from a dig, and from a roll. I confirmed what the butt-o-meter was telling me by running a couple friends with M6s. Just keep in mind that an M6 will likely "feel" stronger than a stalled auto, due to the more violent nature of the shifting, even though the auto may be quicker/faster.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

at you people saying slap a converter cam and sticky tires and boom you got low 11s..
Do you guys actually know what it takes to go from 11.7 to 11.2? I highly doubt the ones saying "just" do this or "just" do that honestly know..

rear end-1500
converter-500-700
cam-250-400 (custom grind mid range 232/234 .600 113 lsa something like that)
FAST 9090-950
exhaust- 350-700
gears- 200
figure the misc. things.... springs push rods oil pump timing chain spark plugs etc etc etc- 300?
suspension- 500-1100
tires- 300
tune- 350
very fast rough estimate

You need to cut at LEAST a bottom 1.6 sixty time, and that should be on the slow side.. bottom 1.5s would be ideal.. and you will need to be trapping 90+mph in the 1/8.. neither are extremely hard but its more that some are making it out to be.
as stated, DA is going to play a role in your times as well..

SMS

I have been into muscle cars and drag racing long enough to know it's not as easy to put 3800 lbs normally aspirated, through the lights at 120 mph,as a lot of the people who posted here have been making it out to be. I just wanted a realistic view or what it would take.

stumprrp

iTrader: (2)

well like i said my car is not mid 11's but for literally just headers and a cam with a stall thats 1400 RPM below peak torque and only 1.69x 60' foot i went 11.90 and 7.60 in the 1/8 so if you got the money i dont think its TOO big of a deal to run those times.

new england dragway has pretty good air though, that run was on a 58 degree night, on a 90 degree day i went 11.94 @ 114x

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

a couple grand in parts, plus all the install. the big question is what tranny will you run? that will spell a big money question in regards to the rear end. a fella down here was running full bolt ons, cam, and a Yank pt4400 on a stock trans and a stock 10 bolt with a gear on DR's. if that was an M6 car the axle would not have lasted long behind 4400rpm clutch dumps.

Im running full bolt ons, mail order tune, 3.42 gear, full weight plus some for suspension mods, 3300 Circle D stall w/perfomabuilt lvl 2 4l60e and im hoping for basement 12's- high high 11's if im lucky.

bottom line is several thousand bucks plus labor and its always cheaper to buy used parts off ls1tech. IMO it would be simpler to get the car, then ask this question again, that way we as members can be much more specific to your setup and situation.

BADD SS

iTrader: (4)

Too many people make it out to be easy in here, it isnt. You will most likely break lots of stuff on the way. We are lucky now that lots of people have done things for you to know what to run and what not to. But when I first got into these cars, 11's were crazy fast..... Heads and cam were rare, and you only ran mid-high 11's usually. Now we have large cams, nice head choices, good converter and clutch choices, etc. But I can guarantee that anyone saying oh just change the suspension and you'll go 11's, is out in left field. You need lots of weight reduction to run 11's like that. just look at the sticky's and timeslips page and see how many "11 second" stock internals there are, not that many considering how many people say it's easy to do.

unit213

I went 11.50's with a lid, catback, free mods, and nitrous...on street radials.
That was in my '00 A4 Z28.