FatZ28

iTrader: (1)

I've heard of people doing that on old school motors (carbed motors) but I wouldn't do it on a LS1.....

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

^^^dont use water, and dont use anything like this on a Northstar motor, the valves of the northstars dont like it. youll be fine with the ls1's though.

also, the longer you let it sit after you bog it to kill it, the better. if you can let it sit like that overnight that would be best. gives the seafoam longer to break down the buildup.

02_camaroz28

iTrader: (20)

I read a really good SeaFoam How To on here a couple months ago. I dunno what it was under but it was a good write up. Ill try to see if i can find it.

02_camaroz28

iTrader: (20)

Here's the Link https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...-your-car.html

98Z2885

Im kinda scared about putting it in the crank case, and then driving it at all. Im afraid it might un clog something and suck it up in the screen of my pump. Has anyone done this? I was thinking about just letting it sit in there all night and then just draining it.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

if you dont wanna drive it then just let it sit and idle for a while, the point in driving it is to get the sludge off all the inside walls, oil passeges, lifters, out of the pushrods etc so it needs to be cycled though the motor. if it would make you feel better then do it several times in a row and just keep changing the filter.

back in the day people used to put a quart of ATF in the crank case and do the same thing, these new motors dont like that though, it tears up the bearings. which is why we use seafoam now.

98Z2885

Im new to the LS1 game, why do they sludge up and build up so much carbon? I have never seen a car act like this. My brothers LT1 did the exact same thing.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

they all do it, its really just the time, heat, pressure, etc. It also doesnt help that always, no matter what, there will be some blow-by, so theres going to be gasoline and exhaust in the mix too. the blow-by increases with milage and time so the build up gets faster.

remember motor oil is designed to stick to stuff, especially the internals of an engine. add in a few hundred degrees, a crankshaft spinning a minimum of 15 times a second or as fast as over 100 rps ( 3000 rp minute is 50 rp second, do the math) , the oil pump pressures, the fact that its dripping down from all over and well, sludge.

also theres burnt oil in there. the bottom ring on a piston has nothing to do with holding compression, its there to keep the oil out of the combustion chamber. so when it starts to ware and oil starts to burn......

98Z2885

Ive built fox bodies for the last 11 years, and Ive never seen them do that. Then my brother bought a LT1 in 05 it had carbon really bad on the maf and tb. Then I bought my car, and it had did the same thing. I just cleaned it off, but I know its got to be built up in the motor. Oh I dropped my pro stars off yesterday, to have the gloss black powder coated. There gonna look sick.

BlackScreaminMachine

iTrader: (17)

I started to read some of these post but here is my personal exp, in no certain order.

- Automatics are not Dyno Queens (at very least compare to other A4 stock stalled cars)
- 1998 cars tend not to dyno high due to PCM and intake, even though the cam is slightly bigger but due to the CAT design and tune, tends to make less power
- Any car that removes the CATS will set a MIL or SES light and the tune can be adjusted. Often a car should be running lean, you should be seeing knock retard
- Mustang dynos lower due to certain parameters that are inputted and some are assumed and ultimately if done correctly can be more accurate then a dynojet but often are not due to again, assumptions.
- Every A4 98 car I have seen does not out the power on par with a 01-2002, the LS6 intake does factor in but we had a car locally, put on headers, LM1 exhaust, lS6 intake, lid, on a 10 bolt w/ dyno tune make 315 rwhp. Sadly my 2002 M6 car with a lid only makes 324 and when headers added made over 350. The auto vs manual diff will matter but alot of it has to do with the pcm and cyl head design.

IMO you need to tune the car see what it makes.

dutinsss

iTrader: (2)

just for a reference, my car made like 295 hp with a full bolt-on m6 untuned(don't know what kind of dyno it was, or what my AF was). after i got a good tune, it bumped it up to 360 uncorrected.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

I dunno then, ive never seen a motor not do it. I do know that the type of oil matters, and im sure all conditions matter, and the motor/design prob matter a lot too.

the build up in the intake is from the gasoline, believe it or not a motor will shoot some of the gas that far back up the intake, it has to do with the valves slamming shut and subsuquent pressure wave that travels back through the intake. take the air filter off a carbed motor at night, shine a flashlight across the top and rev the motor, its crazy. the more valve lift and stiffer valve springs and faster the valves shut the worse it gets, so try it on a factory cam motor and a large cam motor, you should see fuel jump a solid 18 inches out of the carb on the cammed motor.
I dunno that it makes it as far as the MAF but thats whats in the TB and intake manifold.

CarsandWomen

iTrader: (19)

oh yeah,

PICS!!!!!

they say when theyd be done? ive seen black ccw's but not prostars, that just sounds cool lol what are you gonna due for the lug nuts and center caps? all black or some crome? think it would be kinda neat to have the Prostars black, center caps black, and leave the lug nuts crome. then again all black is bad ***

98Z2885

Im having it all done in black, the caps and lugs included. Here is a pic of what they are gonna look like.

blackfang

iTrader: (2)

She is running rich. personally I would swap the maf with a stock one as the stockers work just fine. Sometimes if you mess with them(descreening and porting) it will mess things up.

FWIW, my 98 with a lid, catback, no cats and a basic Frost tune made 300/308 through an A4 in 90 degree heat and right after a thunderstorm.

98Z2885

Link to my wheels I got them back today
https://ls1tech.com/forums/wheels-ti...all-think.html