Hurst shifter question
#1
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Hurst shifter question
Without taking out my shift boots and stuff is the code BBS a sure-fire way to know that I have a Hurst from the factory excluding if someone messed with it?
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Yeah, I basically just wanted to know if I take a shorter shaft and bolt it up will it work until I can purchase a whole new shifter. There's certain ones out there that will only bolt up to the "Factory Hurst". So, cool man thanks. For 20 bucks it'll work until I'm able to get a Pro 5.0 or something similar.
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Factory Hurst is better than aftermarket Hurst. It had to build it to GM specs which had higher tolerances. Find someone with a stock shifter and just move it around, you'll be able to tell instantly. A lot of people by the ricer short sticks which only end up putting your shifting hand in the shift boot bowl. Complete waste of time. If it's a factory hurst shifter leave it alone and spend the money on rear suspension.
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Factory Hurst is better than aftermarket Hurst. It had to build it to GM specs which had higher tolerances. Find someone with a stock shifter and just move it around, you'll be able to tell instantly. A lot of people by the ricer short sticks which only end up putting your shifting hand in the shift boot bowl. Complete waste of time. If it's a factory hurst shifter leave it alone and spend the money on rear suspension.
* Also....the aftermarket Hurst shifter also has shift stops for those crazy gear bangin..power shifting people.
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The current shifter in the car stands WAY too tall for me, I just want to lower it a good inch and a half or two and these sticks do that. I'll end up switching to a different shifter later on, but right now, some numbnut stripped out the threads at the top of the shaft so the hurst **** keeps coming off with the slightest pull, so it needs to be fixed.
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Factory Hurst is better than aftermarket Hurst. It had to build it to GM specs which had higher tolerances. Find someone with a stock shifter and just move it around, you'll be able to tell instantly. A lot of people by the ricer short sticks which only end up putting your shifting hand in the shift boot bowl. Complete waste of time. If it's a factory hurst shifter leave it alone and spend the money on rear suspension.
Go take a real good look at a Factory option Hurst shifter vs a Billet Plus, then tell me which one you would rather have.
I disagree. I hated my stock Hurst that I got from the factory. I bought the Hurst pro billet from Summit and it feels a lot better. I have never missed a shift with my aftermarket Hurst an I would miss them all the time with the stock one.
* Also....the aftermarket Hurst shifter also has shift stops for those crazy gear bangin..power shifting people.
* Also....the aftermarket Hurst shifter also has shift stops for those crazy gear bangin..power shifting people.
Positive stops, no sloppy isolated stick, Billet Aluminum Collar and adjustable spring tension.
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#8
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I have an aftermarket Hurst shifter, and like it alot. My Hurst stick was actually taller than the original (non-hurst) standard shifter that came with the car. I cut my billet plus stick 1.25", and re-threaded the end. It now has a slightly shorter throw, and has plenty of leverage (As aposed to a Lou's Short Stick).
A lot of people really like the B&M ripper too.
A lot of people really like the B&M ripper too.
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I haven't tested or played with a B&M yet but I hear good things about it. I hear mixed reviews on the 5.0, so I guess I'll just have to sit in a car with both and drive em to tell.
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Here you guys yall need to check out my post in the Manual transmission. It's for a shorter hurst stick I bought off ebay for the billet plus shifter. Here it is: https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...installed.html