battery relocation?
battery relocation? Well i was looking into maybe relocating the battery to the back of the car and was wondering if it was worth it? what would it benefit and has anyone ever done it? if so how much did it cost?
It will help with weight transfer and cleaning up the engine bay. If this is going to be your first mod I would save the money for something more worth while. You won't notice a difference unless you are taking it to the track alot.
I did it. Cleaner engine bay, and only cost me $25 for the tray, and like $20 for about 20 feet of 2 gauge. Benefit? ah, there's no SOTP gain, I did it last winter because I was bored. 
what did you do with the factory battery cables? just remove them? how did you hook up the new positive battery cable?
and secondly, could you possibly tell me how you did it/where you mounted it? could i still do it even if i had a sub mounted where the t tops are stored? the amp is in the space on the drivers side you can still do it. Run the battery to where the spare tire goes, usually w/ a bmr or afco (found at summit) battery tray. Fits nicely there behind the panel and no one will see it.
Seat Of The Pants (sotp)
What I still want to see is a clean routing of the power wire. The reason I'll be relocating my battery is because of the cleaner engine bay.
Seat Of The Pants (sotp)
What I still want to see is a clean routing of the power wire. The reason I'll be relocating my battery is because of the cleaner engine bay.
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vent tube out of car... battery box securely mounted, 1 gauge or bigger pref 2/0 (two ought) ... and a kill switch in the back for nhra legal (btw must kill motor, so if you shut off the field wire on the alt it should kill the charging portion of the alternator and the engine....
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i kept the front cables, ground the negative up front, and connected the positives with a switch. Ran the + through little rubber grommet in the firewall, tucked under the carpet/molding. Have the battery box bolted for now, but will get it welded, in the spare tire compartment. I don't have a kill switch, nor a vent tube, but don't race nhra. What kills me is even dry cell batteries which don't give out fumes nor spill need a box. But rules are rules I suppose.
i kept the front cables, ground the negative up front, and connected the positives with a switch. Ran the + through little rubber grommet in the firewall, tucked under the carpet/molding. Have the battery box bolted for now, but will get it welded, in the spare tire compartment. I don't have a kill switch, nor a vent tube, but don't race nhra. What kills me is even dry cell batteries which don't give out fumes nor spill need a box. But rules are rules I suppose.
from nhra website:
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
i don't have either. if you go for fun/tnt, they don't do inspections.
I have a street car that I occasionally run at the strip. I've relocated the battery to the rear. What else do I need?
Any car with a relocated battery must be equipped with a master electrical cutoff, capable of stopping all electrical functions including ignition (must shut the engine off, as well as fuel pumps, etc.). The switch must be located on the rear of the vehicle, with the "off" position clearly marked. If the switch is of a "push / pull" type, then "push" must be the motion that shuts off the switch, and plastic or "keyed" typed switches are prohibited. Also, the battery must be completely sealed from the driver and/or driver compartment. This means a metal bulkhead must separate the trunk from the driver compartment, or the battery must be located in a sealed, metal box constructed of minimum .024 inch steel or .032 inch aluminum, or in an NHRA accepted plastic box. In cars with a conventional trunk, metal can simply be installed behind the rear seat and under the package tray to effectively seal the battery off from the driver. In a hatchback type vehicle the battery box is usually the easiest solution, since the alternative is to fabricate a bulkhead which seals to the hatch when closed. At present, Moroso is the only company which offers an NHRA accepted plastic battery box, part number 74050.
i don't have either. if you go for fun/tnt, they don't do inspections.
