Is this a good LS1? I'm thinking about buying it.
01-19-2010, 05:04 AM
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Is this a good LS1? I'm thinking about buying it. I was wondering if someone could tell if this looks and seems like a clean solid reliable ls1 that I should buy. I don't want headaches, just a turn key dd that I can bring to the track once in a while and seeing that many guys have had to replace motors and trannies under 100k it freaks me out that ls1 fbodies are headaches. What do you think?
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-cobra-gt.html
http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...-cobra-gt.html
01-19-2010, 06:48 AM
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$9,500 OBO. No one go jacking my car.
I'm just worried about durability, reliability and longevity. I personally dont care if its got 110k on it as long as it will hold up well and all these random, motors bad this, tranny bad that now have me questioning reliability of the car
I'm just worried about durability, reliability and longevity. I personally dont care if its got 110k on it as long as it will hold up well and all these random, motors bad this, tranny bad that now have me questioning reliability of the car
01-19-2010, 07:00 AM
#4
All that I can see possibly wrong is no clutch upgrade, (assuming based of the 4.10) rear gear. No mention of a LS6 intake which is choking it. You would need to drive it to see if the car has driveability issues or is just cranky with the tune.
The rear end will prob go 1st due to the normal wear and of course, more power.
Last thing I will throw out there.... all that work, only 800 miles on it and he wants to sell!? I wonder if he got his *** kicked by a 03' Cobra or something.
I think it will be a fine car, but trouble/headache free???? I do not think so.
The rear end will prob go 1st due to the normal wear and of course, more power.
Last thing I will throw out there.... all that work, only 800 miles on it and he wants to sell!? I wonder if he got his *** kicked by a 03' Cobra or something.
I think it will be a fine car, but trouble/headache free???? I do not think so.
01-19-2010, 07:04 AM
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If you maintain the car and don't beat the hell out of it every single time you drive the car you won't have any problems I wouldn't think.
Although, you might have more problems with it having internals worked on, but if it was done right then you certainly shouldn't have a problem.
I would try to talk him down a little bit. I bought my full bolt on '98 SS a year ago for only $500 more and it has half the miles of that one, but I say go for it. Just be prepared for it to be loud as FUH w/ LT's, LM 1, and a cam. Lol.
Just remember, every car is gonna have problems eventually, there's no avoiding it, no matter how well you take car of your car.
Keep us posted on what you do
Although, you might have more problems with it having internals worked on, but if it was done right then you certainly shouldn't have a problem.
I would try to talk him down a little bit. I bought my full bolt on '98 SS a year ago for only $500 more and it has half the miles of that one, but I say go for it. Just be prepared for it to be loud as FUH w/ LT's, LM 1, and a cam. Lol.
Just remember, every car is gonna have problems eventually, there's no avoiding it, no matter how well you take car of your car.
Keep us posted on what you do
01-21-2010, 12:37 AM
#7
thoes numbers are awfully low for the mods....
366 RWHP for full boltons and a pretty large cam?
that car should be closer to 400 horse at the wheels. i would look very closely at this car.
i imagine it has a LS1 intake on it, and probably a shitty tune.
366 RWHP for full boltons and a pretty large cam?
that car should be closer to 400 horse at the wheels. i would look very closely at this car.
i imagine it has a LS1 intake on it, and probably a shitty tune.
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01-28-2010, 09:13 AM
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I have heard many exhaust systems and I would have to say Loudmouth is one of my least favorites. That's just personal preference. You can make up your mind on that. But it looks really clean. Always a plus. Most people don't give a crap.
When I buy a car, I like it to be as close to stock as possible and build it the way I want to build it...not pre-modded. It takes away from all the fun.
As was said in a previous post, it is missing the LS6 intake. I THINK that would complete all the bolt on mods. Then you would need a tune. But you can bet this person drove this car hard so reliability should be a concern. If it is local, take it to a good mechanic that YOU trust to have EVERYTHING checked. Compression is always a great way of telling just how hard a person was driving the thing. You don't want to find out, in a couple of months, that you need an engine rebuild. $$$
Good luck with the purchase.
When I buy a car, I like it to be as close to stock as possible and build it the way I want to build it...not pre-modded. It takes away from all the fun.
As was said in a previous post, it is missing the LS6 intake. I THINK that would complete all the bolt on mods. Then you would need a tune. But you can bet this person drove this car hard so reliability should be a concern. If it is local, take it to a good mechanic that YOU trust to have EVERYTHING checked. Compression is always a great way of telling just how hard a person was driving the thing. You don't want to find out, in a couple of months, that you need an engine rebuild. $$$
Good luck with the purchase.
01-28-2010, 03:14 PM
#18
Screw what everyone else states, the ONLY thing that would always prevent me from buying a modded car is when there has been major engine work to a car (heads/cam, etc) or anything internal, and then they sell it.
I'd be more willing to buy a cammed car that has been cammed for at least a few thousand miles. But when a car looks clean, and the seller states "There has only been 500 miles on the engine since the cam swap!" that tells me they did the cam swap and didn't like it. Why cam the car knowing you're going to sell the car a few miles later, also knowing you wont get the value back from the cam swap?
FYI.
Doesn't matter though, the car has apparently been sold already.
I'd be more willing to buy a cammed car that has been cammed for at least a few thousand miles. But when a car looks clean, and the seller states "There has only been 500 miles on the engine since the cam swap!" that tells me they did the cam swap and didn't like it. Why cam the car knowing you're going to sell the car a few miles later, also knowing you wont get the value back from the cam swap?
FYI.
Doesn't matter though, the car has apparently been sold already.
