SLP lid = slower car
03-20-2010, 06:02 PM
#21
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There is no "IAC sensor".
Are you talking about the sensor that inserts into the air lid on the driver's side? If so, that's an IAT sensor
Or are you talking about the vavle that attaches to the driver's side of the throttle body? If so, that's an IAC motor/valve.
Are you talking about the sensor that inserts into the air lid on the driver's side? If so, that's an IAT sensor
Or are you talking about the vavle that attaches to the driver's side of the throttle body? If so, that's an IAC motor/valve.
03-20-2010, 07:21 PM
#23
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I had a totally stock 98 TA and would run dead even w my buddy's Z...put in a SLP lid and pulled him by about a car every time...you car hasn't lost power bro. Just do as others said, hit the track or a friends car your familiar with running like i did 
03-20-2010, 08:07 PM
#24
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my car bone stock, paper filter, EVERYTHING stock, swaybar hooked up, full weight, half tank of gas, rated tire psi all around. last year ran 13.5s @ 107 with like 2.1x 60'. soft launch, no burnout, no powershifting. I'm sure if it weren't my car or my daily I would get 13.0xs no prob.
02-27-2012, 10:22 AM
#26
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I've experienced the same thing, had a hard getting the maf free from the stock set up. It did take a pretty good hit on the work bench. Now, the car seems to run fine, it idles smoothly. But it feels like its lost something, especially on take off? Please help
02-27-2012, 12:51 PM
#27
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When I put the Blackwing lid on, I found the IAT was
heat soaking a lot worse than the stock lid because
it located the IAT in a "back-water" corner where it
could get warmed up nicely by the engine bay but see
negligible airflow over it.
High IAT will pull timing, and there's your SOTP.
Take a reading and if IAT is way higher than ambient,
relocate the sensor and plug the hole.
heat soaking a lot worse than the stock lid because
it located the IAT in a "back-water" corner where it
could get warmed up nicely by the engine bay but see
negligible airflow over it.
High IAT will pull timing, and there's your SOTP.
Take a reading and if IAT is way higher than ambient,
relocate the sensor and plug the hole.
02-28-2012, 06:07 AM
#28
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When I put the Blackwing lid on, I found the IAT was
heat soaking a lot worse than the stock lid because
it located the IAT in a "back-water" corner where it
could get warmed up nicely by the engine bay but see
negligible airflow over it.
High IAT will pull timing, and there's your SOTP.
Take a reading and if IAT is way higher than ambient,
relocate the sensor and plug the hole.
heat soaking a lot worse than the stock lid because
it located the IAT in a "back-water" corner where it
could get warmed up nicely by the engine bay but see
negligible airflow over it.
High IAT will pull timing, and there's your SOTP.
Take a reading and if IAT is way higher than ambient,
relocate the sensor and plug the hole.
06-09-2012, 06:53 PM
#33
While a lid is important its just a basic mod. Like a few people have said its not possible to feel a difference of 10 HP especially in a 300+ HP car. Its no different then when ricers install a CAI on a honda and claim how much faster it is.
06-09-2012, 07:36 PM
#34
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Oh I know, but the car feels like it is working harder to get going from a stop. I was not expecting to have my remaining hair blown back but I seriously feel like she is a tad bit sluggish now when compared to before the lid. Could I have installed something wrong or messed up the MAF or IAT? I'm used to my Pontiac 400 where I don't have to worry about those sorts of things.
06-09-2012, 07:47 PM
#35
Im guessin on all or most if these people saying ut feels slower, they managed to damage there MAF. This could cause the motor to pull fuel. Try unplugging your MAF and run it for a few miles like that. Also you may have an ecm thats not adjusting to the added air flow. Pull your battery for like 20 minutes and then try again. Once your ecm learns too see the added air it may make a difference. Also, if you guys used a blow dryer for 20 seconds, you never would of had a problem with install/uninstall
06-09-2012, 08:02 PM
#36
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I had to use a blow dryer for about a minute to get it to go on. Also my instructions mentioned nothing of using a heat source just that some "lubrication" may be necessary. If the MAF was damaged wouldn't it kick the SES? When I look in at the MAF I still see the 3 little lines or strings in it.
06-09-2012, 10:27 PM
#38
I had to use a blow dryer for about a minute to get it to go on. Also my instructions mentioned nothing of using a heat source just that some "lubrication" may be necessary. If the MAF was damaged wouldn't it kick the SES? When I look in at the MAF I still see the 3 little lines or strings in it.
Jussayin.
And it should throw a ses but doesn't mean it will.
06-09-2012, 10:40 PM
#39
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I knew to use a hair dryer I was just saying it took me longer then 20 seconds to get the proper amount of give to have it slide on. I also didn't drop my MAF or bang it around so I would be surprised if it was damaged but I will try the suggestions above.
