what is needed to do a wheelie
06-02-2010 | 07:53 PM
#21
06-02-2010 | 08:28 PM
#22
Here's a thread for ya... https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...e-bruised.html
06-03-2010 | 04:58 PM
#25
06-03-2010 | 05:11 PM
#26
Normally the idea is to keep the wheels on the ground, but hell throw 500 lbs of bricks in the truck drop the clutch and try to not catch the driveshaft or clutch as it comes through the floor. We used to make a old chevy single cab dually with a 350 and 4 speed hook on a trailer with a skidsteer and I could pull the front end 10 ft off the ground, from the bottom of the tire but that was back when I did alotta **** I shouldn't have.
06-03-2010 | 06:06 PM
#28
Normally the idea is to keep the wheels on the ground, but hell throw 500 lbs of bricks in the truck drop the clutch and try to not catch the driveshaft or clutch as it comes through the floor. We used to make a old chevy single cab dually with a 350 and 4 speed hook on a trailer with a skidsteer and I could pull the front end 10 ft off the ground, from the bottom of the tire but that was back when I did alotta **** I shouldn't have.
And doing wheelies in bike is more of the norm and doing in in a car, personally would look way better then doing it on a bike
06-03-2010 | 07:55 PM
#29
Great first post...
06-03-2010 | 08:13 PM
#30
You guys **** and moan a lot, too lazy to find it yourself?
It's been discussed in many other threads.
You don't need a transbrake, and you don't need 500whp.
What the **** were those guys even talking about.
You need to lose weight in the front.
Going skinny up front is a good start.
Lighter brakes, get rid of the sway bar and any other **** you can.
You can relocate the battery.
bassically get all the **** you don't need off of the front.
Now, you don't need mega power but you gotta get into the thick of your powerband.
A bigger stall is a must.
4k+.
You need to have a rigid suspension setup, you don't want that **** to unload too fast.
Pretty much full suspension.
And so you don't light up the tires get as much sticky meat under the back as you can.
And as far as power?
You can hang the tires at close to 400RWHP provided everything else is right and you hook.
To the guys complaining (not the OP), do a ****** search instead of crying.
I can understand the thread being started, but if someone does not go into tons of detail on their first post, it's probably because this **** has been posted on several occasions. There was a few guys who did post up what was pretty much needed already and you guys just looked past their posts.
******* retarded if you ask me.
Read the god damn thread.
-Matt
It's been discussed in many other threads.
You don't need a transbrake, and you don't need 500whp.
What the **** were those guys even talking about.
You need to lose weight in the front.
Going skinny up front is a good start.
Lighter brakes, get rid of the sway bar and any other **** you can.
You can relocate the battery.
bassically get all the **** you don't need off of the front.
Now, you don't need mega power but you gotta get into the thick of your powerband.
A bigger stall is a must.
4k+.
You need to have a rigid suspension setup, you don't want that **** to unload too fast.
Pretty much full suspension.
And so you don't light up the tires get as much sticky meat under the back as you can.
And as far as power?
You can hang the tires at close to 400RWHP provided everything else is right and you hook.
To the guys complaining (not the OP), do a ****** search instead of crying.
I can understand the thread being started, but if someone does not go into tons of detail on their first post, it's probably because this **** has been posted on several occasions. There was a few guys who did post up what was pretty much needed already and you guys just looked past their posts.
******* retarded if you ask me.
Read the god damn thread.
-Matt
06-05-2010 | 12:39 AM
#32
I agree that you don't need 500rwhp but your logic is flawed. A solid 400-425 with a big stall will do it just fine. If you set the car up just right you could probably do it with a lot less but it won't be the best setup for going fast, just good wheelies.
06-05-2010 | 12:55 AM
#33
Your going to need a good suspension setup front AND rear, sticky tires, a trans brake in that 4L60, more stall and a HELLUVA lot more power than what you have now.
EDIT: And taking some weight out would help some too.
Let me eleborate some on the suspension. You need the rear hard and the front soft. Not having much travel also helps but will hurt on the landing...been there and done that. I doubt you need 500RWHP, b/c Evolution has a new stang running 10:50's on a 150 shot and it picks the wheels up pretty good using just suspension pieces, gears, slicks/skinnies, and probably a 6 grand clutch dump.
So your gonna need either a trans brake or swap to a stick. If you dont know, a trans brake is on a buttom and when pressed it locks the trans in 1st and reverse to hold the car still, when the button is released it is just like dumping a clutch with a stick. They are AWESOME but will find weak parts very quickly.
EDIT: And taking some weight out would help some too.
Let me eleborate some on the suspension. You need the rear hard and the front soft. Not having much travel also helps but will hurt on the landing...been there and done that. I doubt you need 500RWHP, b/c Evolution has a new stang running 10:50's on a 150 shot and it picks the wheels up pretty good using just suspension pieces, gears, slicks/skinnies, and probably a 6 grand clutch dump.
So your gonna need either a trans brake or swap to a stick. If you dont know, a trans brake is on a buttom and when pressed it locks the trans in 1st and reverse to hold the car still, when the button is released it is just like dumping a clutch with a stick. They are AWESOME but will find weak parts very quickly.
Here is something that will make you wonder for a second..
My last TA cut low-mid 1.6 short times raising both fronts about a six inches off the ground.. The car made right around 440/410 through a 4400 stalled A4.. Stock suspension
Current car.. Cuts bottom 1.5s-high 1.4s.. Car makes right at 395/375 through a 4000 stalled A4.. Full suspension.. Won't lift either tire, not even an inch off the ground.
It ALL in the suspension. I have seen 475Rwhp stalled A4s running 6s in the 1/8 not lift the tires and I have seen full bolt on 360Rwhp cars running high 7s in the 1/8 lift them 4-8 inches.
Power has a very small roll in it.
06-05-2010 | 01:12 AM
#34
get as much weight off the car(especially off the front). i'd say !front sway bar, !AIR/EGR, skinny's. good tire in the back. good suspension set-up. you could do it with 400hp, which means cam-only, just depends on the rest of the set-up. hell, if the rest of the car was set-up right i'd bet you could do it bolt-on only.
06-08-2010 | 12:01 AM
#35
06-08-2010 | 09:48 AM
#37
Although Matt's post above seems a bit angry, he does offer useful information.
In short, your car should make plenty of power to pull a wheel as long as the other components are setup properly. This would include a great tire, a suspension setup that sits soft in the rear and mostly anything you can do to cut weight in the front will help you.
Can it be done on the stock 10 bolt -- absolutely. That being said, I wouldn't expect to continually put that type of stress on that rear without eventually running into an issue.
In short, your car should make plenty of power to pull a wheel as long as the other components are setup properly. This would include a great tire, a suspension setup that sits soft in the rear and mostly anything you can do to cut weight in the front will help you.
Can it be done on the stock 10 bolt -- absolutely. That being said, I wouldn't expect to continually put that type of stress on that rear without eventually running into an issue.
06-08-2010 | 11:58 AM
#38
You cant be serious...6" off the ground is not even considered a wheelie yet LMAO
06-08-2010 | 07:45 PM
#40
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 1,516
Likes: 0
Although Matt's post above seems a bit angry, he does offer useful information.
In short, your car should make plenty of power to pull a wheel as long as the other components are setup properly. This would include a great tire, a suspension setup that sits soft in the rear and mostly anything you can do to cut weight in the front will help you.
Can it be done on the stock 10 bolt -- absolutely. That being said, I wouldn't expect to continually put that type of stress on that rear without eventually running into an issue.
In short, your car should make plenty of power to pull a wheel as long as the other components are setup properly. This would include a great tire, a suspension setup that sits soft in the rear and mostly anything you can do to cut weight in the front will help you.
Can it be done on the stock 10 bolt -- absolutely. That being said, I wouldn't expect to continually put that type of stress on that rear without eventually running into an issue.