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98 z28 with 216,000 miles!

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Old 11-02-2011, 09:56 PM
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...I just realized you said you put it on Nitto's...NT555r's? I'd LOVE to make a pass in the old girl at NED on those tires...I can't believe how hard they hook up on my 2010...and you know how much seat time I have in that car...that I built...lol.
Old 11-02-2011, 11:52 PM
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yes 555r's , my wife drives it more than me and I was concerned seeing it would/could break loose even in 3rd with the winter rubber that was on it (allthough she claims to have never triggered the shift light) it hooks well now

it wont be seeing the track until it gets an adjustable master... , I am sure you could best your 11.95 on these tires

keep piling the miles on that 2010 , remember I called dibs......
Old 11-03-2011, 09:04 AM
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I got a friend that has a 99' TA with 220k miles and it has had a nitrous bottle for as long as I can remember (even with past owners) it is still hanging in there.
Old 11-03-2011, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Joshiedoom
Dont rebuild the 98 engine. Most likely it will be out of spec, get a good newer ls1 and rebuild it. Im waiting till mine handgrenades Mine does the same thing will oil pressure btw Good luck modding!
This


BtW Josh I have your cars twin.
Old 11-03-2011, 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
yes 555r's , my wife drives it more than me and I was concerned seeing it would/could break loose even in 3rd with the winter rubber that was on it (allthough she claims to have never triggered the shift light) it hooks well now

it wont be seeing the track until it gets an adjustable master... , I am sure you could best your 11.95 on these tires

keep piling the miles on that 2010 , remember I called dibs......
When I put the new clutch in the car I put in all new OEM hydraulics (plus the Tick remote bleeder line)...are they acting up on you? The original stuff was fine until the odometer turned around 190K, then the pedal would stick to the floor occassionally on high RPM shifts...once I changed it all over though (at 210K) it was fine for me...oh well...I had the 2010's pedal stick to the floor once already too...at the track, after the best 60' the car has ever cut...really pissed me off that I couldn't get down the track and get it a best ET too.

I know you called dibs on the 2010 haha...but I may never sell this one...it's already modified more than the old car was
Old 11-04-2011, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
When I put the new clutch in the car I put in all new OEM hydraulics (plus the Tick remote bleeder line)...are they acting up on you? The original stuff was fine until the odometer turned around 190K, then the pedal would stick to the floor occassionally on high RPM shifts...once I changed it all over though (at 210K) it was fine for me...oh well...I had the 2010's pedal stick to the floor once already too...at the track, after the best 60' the car has ever cut...really pissed me off that I couldn't get down the track and get it a best ET too.

I know you called dibs on the 2010 haha...but I may never sell this one...it's already modified more than the old car was
whats your best et with the 2010 ??


my pedal feels fine...shifts slick until full throttle and high rpm combined - then you gotta be patient....searches here lead to adjustable master and be done with it , dont get me wrong we are thrilled with the car - it was/is a tremendous value. Its been a long time since i had a stick car but I cant shift it at full boogie like I could always shift a muncie or super t 10 car and the kirban shifter feels nice and positive.

It needs a full push of the clutch ( when driving aggressively I move the seat way forward to force myself not to cheat the clutch and still need to back off the gas a lot)

with the miles it could be internals/synchro issue but from reading around here it sounds like an aftermarket adj master will improve your shifting either way so i am thinking try that first over winter....
Old 11-06-2011, 09:29 PM
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Only mid 12's so far in the new car...making more power than the stock clutch can take (can't leave like I want to, the clutch starts to get the car out of the hole then gives up)...trapping 116 mph without spinning though (when I leave like a pansy since the clutch sucks)...it'll get a twin disc and gears this winter...and heads and a cam and a fast 102 and............................................... ..

I think you're just seeing what a T56 shifts like...I'd never shift any car without putting the clutch pedal all the way on the floor...so I'm not sure what you mean by it requires a full push...of course it does...just do it fast lol.

Sounds like you need to sit in the passenger seat of my old car and let me take it or a rip to show you how I always shifted it ...milliseconds in my data logs.
Old 11-06-2011, 09:32 PM
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It's kinda funny what you said about the seat...I am leg tall...that seat spent all it's life with me as far down to the floor and as far back from the pedals as it goes...then just set the seatback so my right wrist landed on the wheel with my shoulder against the seatback and a slight bend to my elbow.
Old 11-07-2011, 04:23 AM
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holy cow..i am suprised these cars last to 220,000.+miles thats great to know
Old 11-07-2011, 07:18 AM
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Thats if you drive them nice. Dont gun it or get it up in the 6k rpm.
Old 11-07-2011, 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by 02ws.sik
Thats if you drive them nice. Dont gun it or get it up in the 6k rpm.
Mine saw full throttle 6K rpm shifts daily (a lot too, not just once a day)...I owned it from 87K to 226K.
Old 11-09-2011, 11:46 AM
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i also vote on a rebuild. even tho it may be super clean and run great, gaskets are old, and when you start puttine mods and power in yoru gonna spend your extra time replacing them eventually. so get it done with mods in 1 shot. instead of 2
Old 11-09-2011, 12:00 PM
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My best advise would be to start putting some $$$ aside for a engine rebuild. 216k is pretty high. I would take it easy on it too.
Old 11-09-2011, 11:39 PM
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Originally Posted by camaroboy14
holy cow..i am suprised these cars last to 220,000.+miles thats great to know
my 230k cars body ,undercairage , interior is nicer than most 80k cars just need to plan for the inevitable mechanicals at some point.....no reason the rest of the car wont make it to 400k , its tight as a drum (hardtop car)
Old 11-10-2011, 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
my 230k cars body ,undercairage , interior is nicer than most 80k cars just need to plan for the inevitable mechanicals at some point.....no reason the rest of the car wont make it to 400k , its tight as a drum (hardtop car)
...and it did a HELL of a burnout when it hit 200K...just sayin...
Old 11-11-2011, 12:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike454SS
...and it did a HELL of a burnout when it hit 200K...just sayin...
no pics or vid it didnt happen lol
Old 11-11-2011, 03:39 AM
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Rebuild before modding, or
Old 11-11-2011, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by murphinator
no pics or vid it didnt happen lol
I've got a picture of the Odometer at 100K, and at 200K (and some various other spots too)...but when I was letting the car have it doing a burnout, I was also steering it to avoid crashing (it was in third gear and moving pretty fast)...so I couldn't step outside of it to take video or get a picture haha.



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