This is the best answer you have op. this will get you almost all these parts for your budget and get you in the 12s for sure maybe even high 11s if you dial it in good.
id say
-stall- about 600
-tires 3 4 hundred
-LCAs 100
-Torque Arm 250
-Cam 1200
-Exhaust headers 3-4 hundred
-Tune 400

 

i wouldnt do a cam without heads tbh

 

My advise for the OP is ignore any advise you read on this forum. Seriously, there's some bad advise presented in this thread. Really guys, y'all are talking about heads and cam, nitrous, and full suspension just to run low 12s? My lid and cutout 2.73-geared A4 on street tires and stock suspension runs high 12s in good air.

With an LS6 intake, full exhaust, drag radials, and a stall you should EASILY be in the bottom 12s which is what the OP said he's shooting for... ignore anyone suggesting subframe connectors and lowering springs, unless you feel like throwing the Visa card at things that do nothing to improve 1/4 mile times...

 

not talking about heads an nitrous

on these cars cam/suspension/exhaust/stall/tune/tires will be a consistent 12s car
im also not talking about springs talking about tubular susp parts.


Maybe you could hit 12s with just a ls6 intake with yank converter in it with some gears a little exhaust work and a tune and you might have a 12 second car

 

Subframe connectors are the very first mod you should do to these cars... even before a lid.

To the OP: Yes, 12s can be done stock with tire. But a cam, valvesprings, pushrods, LTs, LS6 intake, torque arm, tire, LCAs, SFCs, stall, and a good tune will put you far beyond your goals... all this can be had under your budget... if you do most of the labor yourself...

Cam/Valvesprings/Pushrods: $700
pacesetter coated LTs: $350
LS6 intake: $250-$300
Torque arm: $200
Tire: $300-$400
LCAs: $150
SFCs: $180
Stall: $500
Tune: $300-400

 

Instead of throwing a bunch of money at the car trying to go fast I would recommend spending A LOT of time on this site and research and figure out what specific goals you want for the car and how you want to accomplish them. Making a thread is a good start but there is A LOT more information on this site then you will get in here. Ive had cars that ran 12's without headers and very basic mods, the key is to complement the right mods to get maximum gain.

For example someone already said it in here if you throw a ton of money and make 500 HP you will likely get outrun at the track to a car with 400 HP and a good suspension setup since you cant use the power except to spin.

 

Cam only LS1s can make great power, as even stock LS1 heads flow well and the stock cam leaves a bunch of power on the table. Heads are a significant additional expense, so if your budget is limited then cam-only is a good option (once you get past the bolt-ons).

I agree.

Again, I agree (though I would also add a tune for the headers and intake). I remember running a best of 12.69 with a 3500 stall, lid, catback and drag radials; and that was with an LS1 intake, stock tuning, and stock manifolds & cats. With LTs, ORY, LS6 intake and a tune I'm sure low 12s would have been no problem at all.

 

My god people..

A simple 3600-4000 good converter, long tubes, ory with cutout, lid, intake, tune, tire will get him a solid high 11 bottom 12 car. We have pretty good tracks in tn.

Qiu the rest of the money spend it on lca tq arm and sfc.. whatever is left do whatever with it.. that will give you a solid foundation to start on and build from along with giving you enough to runbsome mid seven on motor and trap around 88-89 or so.

Don't ask questions like this in newbie tech. Op u need to do a ton more research before u blow a lot of money. Search old threads, read stickers, etc.. do some hard research for a week or two and then when you have an idea about what you want, make another thread in the internal or external forum asking what people think.

A full bolt on or cam only stalled auto running 12s... lmao, I'd run the bitch off a cliff. Or with a few bolt ons you might have a 12 car.. if I put a converter and tire on the car and didn't hit 12s id sell the v6 I was apparently modding and buy an ls1.

 

OOp... research research research!!!!

 

For a stock car? There's still a debate over whether SFCs even do a damn thing for our cars other than make it ride hard. I could be wrong but as far as I know Sam Strano doesn't even run SFCs on his road race car...

I'm not saying SFCs don't make the chassis stiffer, but for a 12 second car that isn't hanging the front tires on every launch I doubt they'll make much of a difference...

Unfortunantly it seems a lot of people have bought into the whole "more mods = better" idea instead of deciding what mods are useful and what are overkill.

 

While I agree with most of your post, I have to disagree with some of this part.

Newbie Tech is here for threads exactly like this. And I agree that the OP clearly needs to do more reseach on his own, but if he's going to post a thread like this then it should be in this section.

And the last thing we need in the internal or external engine sections is another "what mod to do next" thread.

 

I suppose you are correct. I just see so many 2011 join dates throwing out info on how to reach 11s with a cam knly car while thy have only owned 13 second intake only cars. Lol

I guess we just need more senior members checking in here more often is all. Didn't think that one through, it just struck a nerve when I read some of these posts. Haha


**typing from phone excuse grammar etc etc

 

85 hp honda engine? wow whoever you know that has a honda has a fucked up engine. the engine in my honda puts out 205 hp all motor

 

Disagreed, but to each their own. Lack of proper shock dampening makes these cars feel a lot looser than they actually are. Upgrading to something that can actually control the car gets rid of that "loose" or "bouncy" feeling that everybody seems to think is because the chassis is a wet noodle.

Not saying they're not useful, especially on a track car, but I don't think that they deserve to be the first mod, unless you're going to completely skip out on upgrading shocks or other suspension pieces for a while.

 

From all the research Ive done the are suppose to keep the car from flexing. That flexing from not having a solid frame is what eventually causes the rattles and dimples in the quarter panels of our cars. Now your not going to develop these overnight, but Ive looked at plenty of high millage cars had a ton of rattles or dimples in the quarter panels from using the car. Because even at stock power levels there is still plenty of power to flex the body. With that said I never looked at SFC as performance mod, I always looked at them as a preventative mod to avoid possible problems in the future. Kind of like a catch can.

could you have made a more off topic pointless post? Most honda engines are in the 80-120 HP range as they just commuter cars. But I know its going to come as a shock to you, but Im pretty sure honda made more then one engine as they have several makes and models of cars

 

Honda made plenty of ~100hp-or-less engines up till the mid '90s at least. Guess they are all fucked up, even stock.

But congrats on your 205hp man. I had a '96 Bonneville that was making 205hp all motor too, stock.