Completely STOCK
Hey guys! Im about to pick up a 1999 trans am. It has the ls1, 130000 miles and is completely STOCK. I have prob a $3500 budget. And i want to go fast on the street and on the track. Id like to be in the low 12s on the track and spank some gt500s on the street. Will 3500 do it. Come on guys give me a build list of what i should do!
With that kind of cash I wouldn't think about messing with internals or a rebuild just yet. A cam swap would cost you a bit more than half of that $3500.
IMO, I would do bolt ons and suspension mods. Get some Strano springs, a set of bilstein shocks, good tires, a set of headers, Y pipe, and catback, and a stall will really help. If you have cash left, get tubular parts, like subframe connectors, lower control arms, panhard bar, a good tune, etc.
Source as many parts as you can used, especially the parts that don't take much wear and tear. Headers, tubular suspension parts, springs if you can find them with low mileage, you get the idea, that saves tons of money for other mods.
As for beating the GT500, it will take a good bit more cash than that.
FIRST and foremost, focus on bolt ons, suspension, brakes, exhaust, things of that nature that maximize the potential of the stock motor and it's ability to put the power to the ground efficiently, it will also be much safer as a result.
IMO, I would do bolt ons and suspension mods. Get some Strano springs, a set of bilstein shocks, good tires, a set of headers, Y pipe, and catback, and a stall will really help. If you have cash left, get tubular parts, like subframe connectors, lower control arms, panhard bar, a good tune, etc.
Source as many parts as you can used, especially the parts that don't take much wear and tear. Headers, tubular suspension parts, springs if you can find them with low mileage, you get the idea, that saves tons of money for other mods.
As for beating the GT500, it will take a good bit more cash than that.
FIRST and foremost, focus on bolt ons, suspension, brakes, exhaust, things of that nature that maximize the potential of the stock motor and it's ability to put the power to the ground efficiently, it will also be much safer as a result.
I don't think I would jump into a rebuild. You can probably put the money together and get a better car with less miles for 8500 bucks. After you get it, then just slowly mod it. No rush. Put a little in here and there. Do full bolt ons and work up to the exhaust, cam, ect. That's just me though.
I don't think I would jump into a rebuild. You can probably put the money together and get a better car with less miles for 8500 bucks. After you get it, then just slowly mod it. No rush. Put a little in here and there. Do full bolt ons and work up to the exhaust, cam, ect. That's just me though.
) and will be good to go on your own with the rest of your bolt-ons. Trending Topics
Some people don't think it is. However, you can get something with a lot less miles. These cars are pretty stout (even stock), so you can just take your time doing mods. If you like the car, and you are good with the miles, then go for it. I don't want to talk you out of it, by any means. Hell, you can go get a car with 45xxx miles on it, and have it break on you a couple of weeks later. Good luck with whatever you choose.
You can always find an F-Body with less miles. Always. The price on yours is right, but a modified LS1 around that mileage takes special attention. Now, the LS1 is VERY reliable and can be run into 200k EASY. But if you're racing on it and modifying it, it will be harder making it last. If you stay on top of maintaining the LS1, it will reward you greatly with power and reliability. But it's not a Honda. If you let it go 50k without an oil change, it will die. If you let it overheat, it will warp. If you don't install parts correctly, they will cause damage. I have been doing my own work on my car since I got it and have zero complaints. Just don't expect to get the car, add a ton of power and drive it till the wheels fall off without caring for it. Be sensible.
Some people don't think it is. However, you can get something with a lot less miles. These cars are pretty stout (even stock), so you can just take your time doing mods. If you like the car, and you are good with the miles, then go for it. I don't want to talk you out of it, by any means. Hell, you can go get a car with 45xxx miles on it, and have it break on you a couple of weeks later. Good luck with whatever you choose.
Im just wondering at what point id have to do a rebuild? So if i buy it... I should go with longtubes, catback, tb, lid, ram air hood, short thrower, stall, 373 gears and spend the rest on suspension mods? Guess thats pretty good right lol. With that mod list, me being a pretty good driver, how do you think id do in the 1/4 in the high elevation of thunder valley drag in bristol tn?
Ram air hood would be an apperance mod more than anything. Short thrower?? I'm guessing you are talking about a shifter. Is it an M6?? If so, you can take the "stall" off your list.
You can always find an F-Body with less miles. Always. The price on yours is right, but a modified LS1 around that mileage takes special attention. Now, the LS1 is VERY reliable and can be run into 200k EASY. But if you're racing on it and modifying it, it will be harder making it last. If you stay on top of maintaining the LS1, it will reward you greatly with power and reliability. But it's not a Honda. If you let it go 50k without an oil change, it will die. If you let it overheat, it will warp. If you don't install parts correctly, they will cause damage. I have been doing my own work on my car since I got it and have zero complaints. Just don't expect to get the car, add a ton of power and drive it till the wheels fall off without caring for it. Be sensible.
lol idk why i said sts... its an auto my bad. Where u think that would put me in a 1/4 at bristol?
Im just wondering at what point id have to do a rebuild? So if i buy it... I should go with longtubes, catback, tb, lid, ram air hood, short thrower, stall, 373 gears and spend the rest on suspension mods? Guess thats pretty good right lol. With that mod list, me being a pretty good driver, how do you think id do in the 1/4 in the high elevation of thunder valley drag in bristol tn?
I don't want to insult your knowledge, I knew less than you do at one point, but you need to sit down and just flip through the newbie section. That is going to help you out a ton. As far as the 1/4 goes... You're not there yet...
Okay im a newb... but i just read through the newb section. Im going with a lid, underdrive pulley, Electric wp, texas speed headers, borla catback, fast intakel, fast tb, 3500 stall and sf connectors. This will run me roughly 3500 bucks. With those bolt ons i could see maybe a low 13! Im going to get the car this weekend and then taking out loan the same day to get parts lol. Then ill start saving for the susp. work. Im guessing that 4000 in susp and then start on the motor?
Hello , how are You today ? I used to own a 80' Z-28 that as far as engine was concerned was stock but "everything" else was not . It had a built 700 r4 with the "Gil Younger" No Yo Yo Sisco Cal complete recalibration kit and 9 clutch high heat/friction clutches , 7vein pump , hardened pump rings , rear planetary with dam . KYB gas adjusts fr and re , poly fr bushings brand new T/A big block coils , T/A fr and re sway bars , T/A posi/limited slip gear carrier , rear disc brakes , BFG 275-50-15 rear and 265-50-15 fr , killer stereo , blah blah blah but I'll tell You what that car handled , stopped on a dime and was no slouch as far as acceleration , on paper nowhere near as much power but I raced an LS1 Camaro once and it was pretty close . Anyway there is alot to be said for suspension , brakes , tranny and so forth . Good luck



