Help with stuck intake.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2011
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Help with stuck intake. I have a 2001 SS Camaro that I am trying to remove the intake from. Well it seems to be stuck, I have taken all the bolts (7mm,10mm) from the top and have disconnected all the connections to the injectors (did not remove injectors or fuel rails) well it still seems to be stuck. For more information purposes I have also removed the MAF and TB.
I have not done this before and I really don't know how much force is needed to remove it from the top of the motor. Are there certain pry point I need to take advantage of or maybe a hidden bolt or something I cant see?
I have looked at the write up on this forum (ls1 to ls6 intake swap) but the information it gives is kind of limited. To bad the one video that seemed to be useful no longer works. I have taken full advantage of the SEARCH function and can not find anything else that would be useful.
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
I have not done this before and I really don't know how much force is needed to remove it from the top of the motor. Are there certain pry point I need to take advantage of or maybe a hidden bolt or something I cant see?
I have looked at the write up on this forum (ls1 to ls6 intake swap) but the information it gives is kind of limited. To bad the one video that seemed to be useful no longer works. I have taken full advantage of the SEARCH function and can not find anything else that would be useful.
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
I have a 2001 SS Camaro that I am trying to remove the intake from. Well it seems to be stuck, I have taken all the bolts (7mm,10mm) from the top and have disconnected all the connections to the injectors (did not remove injectors or fuel rails) well it still seems to be stuck. For more information purposes I have also removed the MAF and TB.
I have not done this before and I really don't know how much force is needed to remove it from the top of the motor. Are there certain pry point I need to take advantage of or maybe a hidden bolt or something I cant see?
I have looked at the write up on this forum (ls1 to ls6 intake swap) but the information it gives is kind of limited. To bad the one video that seemed to be useful no longer works. I have taken full advantage of the SEARCH function and can not find anything else that would be useful.
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
I have not done this before and I really don't know how much force is needed to remove it from the top of the motor. Are there certain pry point I need to take advantage of or maybe a hidden bolt or something I cant see?
I have looked at the write up on this forum (ls1 to ls6 intake swap) but the information it gives is kind of limited. To bad the one video that seemed to be useful no longer works. I have taken full advantage of the SEARCH function and can not find anything else that would be useful.
Any pointers will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you
Yea, use tape to hold up the bolts. Also disconnect the brake booster hose from the booster and then snake it back around the oil pressure sender unit.
Lift up and then pull.
Lift up and then pull.
If its never been lifted...take a mallet and give a few small blows to the bottom of the TB upwards. That should break it loose from the heads. Use caution as stated above it is very easy to break the oil pressure sending unit. Pull the intake forward about 3 inches, enough to get your hand in behind the intake. You will find a MAP sensor plug that pulls out after lifting the tab from the driver side to the pass side. You will also have a small vacuum hose next to the MAP sensor that will slip right off. Once you clear these two items you can remove the intake slowly watching the vacuum hose from the brake booster that sits behind the oil sender. Good luck bro!
Launching!
Joined: Sep 2009
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From: SOUTH CAROLINA
Hi,it sure is great to have friends...........we all need help and it's usually the things we overlook...don't beat yourself up..... this is a learning curve for all...
Have a blessed day..............jim
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thank all of you for the help, I got the final bolt out and the MAP sensor plug but did not know about the vacuum line. After I removed the last bolt and the MAP sensor I called it quits for the evening. I can't seem to get the fuel line off of the fuel rail on the driver side. I have the 3/8 line disconnect tool but even when it's bottomed out the line still wont release. I may just go out and get the metal one (the one I have is plastic).
Again thanks for the help I already feel welcomed.
Again thanks for the help I already feel welcomed.
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Keep messing with the plastic. BUT the lock inside maybe busted. It should not be but anything can happen.
I ran into this and had to cut the line and replace with a dealership unit, it runs at least 70$ maybe more.
You are supposed to push the line into the rail while using the plastic "cam" lock thing and it will basically come off.
IF you cannot do this and want to try, you can unbolt the fuel rail from the intake and mke sure you get every bolt and just lift it enough off to snake out the intake. Do not bend it too much, its not that flexible. You can kink it.
Keep messing with the plastic. BUT the lock inside maybe busted. It should not be but anything can happen.
I ran into this and had to cut the line and replace with a dealership unit, it runs at least 70$ maybe more.
You are supposed to push the line into the rail while using the plastic "cam" lock thing and it will basically come off.
IF you cannot do this and want to try, you can unbolt the fuel rail from the intake and mke sure you get every bolt and just lift it enough off to snake out the intake. Do not bend it too much, its not that flexible. You can kink it.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Intake off took pics So i got the intake off and it was really dirty underneath. Is it suppose to be like this?
Didn't break it
Bottom of the intake
also the wire for the knock senor was pinched between the intake and the head, the car was giving the code for a knock sensor so I guess I found the problem.
Finally, the reason for removing the intake was because I found coolant pooling in between the intake and head on the drivers side closer to the firewall when operating temp was reached. after removing the intake I realized coolant does not run through the intake. I can not see any visible cracks on the head so I can't really tell where the water is coming from. Could it be a gasket problem? they are squished and kind of worn....
Picks taken on cell phone sorry for the bad quality.
Didn't break it
Bottom of the intake
also the wire for the knock senor was pinched between the intake and the head, the car was giving the code for a knock sensor so I guess I found the problem.
Finally, the reason for removing the intake was because I found coolant pooling in between the intake and head on the drivers side closer to the firewall when operating temp was reached. after removing the intake I realized coolant does not run through the intake. I can not see any visible cracks on the head so I can't really tell where the water is coming from. Could it be a gasket problem? they are squished and kind of worn....
Picks taken on cell phone sorry for the bad quality.
Check your head block offs on each one. The gaskets may be worn enough to spray coolant. The dirt and grime is normal...make sure everything stays out of the intake ports. Even vacuum and blow air in the ports before installing the intake. Good job sir!!
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thanks guys, I hope it's not a head gasket, but if so I'm looking for a write up. Might as well do it myself I've come this far.
On a good note I found out I already have an LS6 intake
EDIT: What are the "block offs"? Where would the be located?
On a good note I found out I already have an LS6 intake
EDIT: What are the "block offs"? Where would the be located?
Last edited by Lightyears; Feb 1, 2011 at 08:45 PM.
This is the pic of the block off. Just by seeing this and the bottom of your intake, I could have told you that was a ls6. In earlier years, that port at the top of the heads were all 4 tied together and returned to the radiator. In later years(like yours apparently) the back 2 were "blocked off" so the flat bottomed ls6 intake could sit down and seal properly. These are coolant passages to help cool the heads. Some believe that the later years(that used block offs) have higher cylinder temps near 7&8 which has also led people to believe this is what causes a lot of the 7&8 ringlands to break. Just food for thought! Anyways, check these block offs for leakage also. Get back to us and let us know!! Good luck
~Joshua
~Joshua
Last edited by Texhotrod593; Feb 1, 2011 at 09:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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lol @ sjsingle1 looks like you broke your plug...
Update: After a few days of being a bit chilly here in Houston I finally got the car back together and it's running.....very badly but it is running. I think it might be bad gas but not too sure, the gas is about 6 months old but I did put a stabilizer in it before I put it away. I hope I don't have to drain the tank as it has about 12 gallons in it and I don't have a place to put it. A few other things is it needs a tune and and a tune up so all these thing may be contributing to it running so bad. On the upside it is not leaking water and I made it to the store and back, barely but I made it none the less.
All in all I'm pretty excited and will now be looking for a place to get a tune.
EDIT: Can a computer lose its program causing the car to run bad?
Update: After a few days of being a bit chilly here in Houston I finally got the car back together and it's running.....very badly but it is running. I think it might be bad gas but not too sure, the gas is about 6 months old but I did put a stabilizer in it before I put it away. I hope I don't have to drain the tank as it has about 12 gallons in it and I don't have a place to put it. A few other things is it needs a tune and and a tune up so all these thing may be contributing to it running so bad. On the upside it is not leaking water and I made it to the store and back, barely but I made it none the less.
All in all I'm pretty excited and will now be looking for a place to get a tune.
EDIT: Can a computer lose its program causing the car to run bad?
Last edited by Lightyears; Feb 7, 2011 at 07:04 PM.
