Poly MM problem
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Poly MM problem
In the process of doing poly mm, pacesetter 7:58:17 PM and tsp ory, everything is out and I'm working on putting the mm back in but none of the holes are lining up. I have triple checked the shells and mm and they are together right. I've raised and lowered the motor but the best I can get is one bolt started. Looking for some helpful hints. Thanks in advance
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if you want to do this the way everyone else does, you'll need two people with the strength of 20 gorillas, a couple long pry bars and a case of whatever beer suits your particular flavor at the time.
if you want to do it the 100000000000000000000000x easier way, let me know and i'll post it up. i posted it before but everyone still uses the gorilla method for some reason.
if you want to do it the 100000000000000000000000x easier way, let me know and i'll post it up. i posted it before but everyone still uses the gorilla method for some reason.
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you'll have to take one of the bolts that secures the motor mount pedastal out and take a trip to home depot. there, buy 4 bolts of the same thread pattern, but about 2-3 inches longer. now go back home.
now i'm assuming you have your motor still in the car, but sitting on a floor jack. geting one mount connected and finished is pretty easy, right? its getting the other side to line up that's the pain in the ***. so get one side connected to the k-member. i like to get the passenger side done first since there's more room to work on the driver side. now, fully disconnect the driver side pedestal from the k-member and connect it to the motor mount. so now you have it connected to the motor, but not the k-member and there's about an inch or two gap between the k-member and the pedestal, right? this is where the longer bolts come in. get as many of the longer bolts run through the holes on the pedestal to the k-member. you may be able to get only 2 or three. some metal dowels can help, but not necessary. now start tightening the bolts down until the pedestal is close enought to the k-member to get one of the original bolts in there and replace the longer bolt with the original. repeat this until you have all the original bolts in place and tighten them up. this only take one person and you don't have to have the genes of hercules to do it. i know for a fact this works, cuz this is how i have done by myself twice already. enjoy.
now i'm assuming you have your motor still in the car, but sitting on a floor jack. geting one mount connected and finished is pretty easy, right? its getting the other side to line up that's the pain in the ***. so get one side connected to the k-member. i like to get the passenger side done first since there's more room to work on the driver side. now, fully disconnect the driver side pedestal from the k-member and connect it to the motor mount. so now you have it connected to the motor, but not the k-member and there's about an inch or two gap between the k-member and the pedestal, right? this is where the longer bolts come in. get as many of the longer bolts run through the holes on the pedestal to the k-member. you may be able to get only 2 or three. some metal dowels can help, but not necessary. now start tightening the bolts down until the pedestal is close enought to the k-member to get one of the original bolts in there and replace the longer bolt with the original. repeat this until you have all the original bolts in place and tighten them up. this only take one person and you don't have to have the genes of hercules to do it. i know for a fact this works, cuz this is how i have done by myself twice already. enjoy.
#7
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Heard a trick you may want to consider that may help, apparently the original poster used the fbody jack and slide it between the frame and the block, jacked it open to move the engine one way or the other, food for thought....also heard of people using those 2-3 inch ratchet down straps to move it around too.
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Thanks for the suggestions. I got them in by taking 6 of the 8 pedestal bolts all the way out and loosening the other 2. The mm bolts to the block went right in! As for the 18mm bolts the passenger side went right in and with a few tugs with a pry bar the driver side went in as well! Now ready to bolt the headers and ory in. Anything I need to know for that? I hear a lot of people saying they grind off a tab on their block...anything else?
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Easiest way I found I I think a lot of people screw up by undoing both sides... Take out one side mm and reassemble with the poly before even touching the other side of the car.... Still need a jack underneath to go up and down but no need for side to side movement.... Loosen and remove all bolts on mm, lift motor, push pull twist and tug unroll pedestal and all come out... Disassemble
And assemble new mm and repeat to get the new one in... Like said by numerous people... DONT tighten anything until fully installed!! Then eat fried catfish with a case of beer
And assemble new mm and repeat to get the new one in... Like said by numerous people... DONT tighten anything until fully installed!! Then eat fried catfish with a case of beer
#12
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This is an understatement, but there is A LOT of good advice in this thread...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-written.html
Read and be happy.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-written.html
Read and be happy.