Franchi

Rides much better plus weight transfer too will be improved general rule of thumb.

JD_AMG

no no no no.
Konis and other handling shocks hold weight transfer back compared to stock or drag shocks because they have much greater rebound control.
If you want great weight transfer get a drag shock, but you will be greatly sacrificing handling and stability (will feel like a wet noodle) and ride quality (loose but jarring over bumps at the same time).

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

Besides Koni's what would be some good brands to check out?

WILDMN

iTrader: (4)

As for tires I recommend.. I have had really good luck with the BF Goodrich G-Force KDW2... They look nice and handle great no matter the weather. They are a performance tire as well. With the power numbers you seem to be looking at from bolt on's and all they will handle what you can throw at them. 4 brand new will run you around 1000 bucks though.

need2speed94

I think these mod are a MUST, and everything after is your choice...

-Tick master cylinder
-Short shifter (stall if you're auto)
-Gears
-New rear end
-Tires
-Lower control arms
-Subframe connectors
-Panhard bar
-Stickers
-JK^
-Free mods

I think these are great first mods to prep your car for more power. This might not be too appealing to those on a budget, but it's definitely worth putting money into in the long run. Making big power is one thing, being able to have a reliable car that can hold that power and drive it everyday without breaking something is something I see as more important.

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

Rear-end was one I definitely wanted to knock out first, because if I seriously want to start making power I don't want to wonder, hmm is this the day my 12 bolt takes a ****? But thanks for all of the input.

@WILDMN, do they low profile styles of those? Because right now I have the Corvette rims in my sig and didn't know how that'd look/work

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

What's the tick master cylinder?

JD_AMG

Depends on what you are looking for, but the cheapest I would go is SLP Bilstiens. They arn't adjustable like konis, and wont handle nearly as well, but they are a definite improvement over stock for handling/ride. The cheaper shocks generally are low quality with weak valving and aren't worth the money IMO.
Check out stranoparts:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7
The Konis are not unreasonably priced by any means for how much they transform the car, well worth the money IMO:
http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=20&ModelID=7

JD_AMG

Search the manual transmission section, its an adjustable master cylinder for the clutch hydraulics, flows way more fluid than the stock master, which means easier shifts and no more high RPM sticking in gear/not being able to shift/spongy clutch peddle.

need2speed94

It's a VERY efficient replacement for the absolutely horrid GM master cylinder that they used for the F Bodys. With the stock MS, it gets a bit tough to shift past ~5000, I find myself tugging the shifter back pretty hard when I'm pullin through gears w/o it. The way it is designed is very poor and hydraulic pressure is very low up at high RPM's when you try to shift... Basically, shifting becomes much much easier with it and I believe it should actually be the very first mod done to a manual F Body.

BStowers023

iTrader: (1)

You have the stock 10 bolt not 12. And if you're looking to make real power MT ET streets are a must. Also as far as springs and shocks go look into QA1, they're solid. I think a lot of the guys posting on here are confused as to what you want, you seem to have made it apparent you're looking more for straight line performance rather than handling and comfort.

JD_AMG

*if you want drag do a search, its seems QA1s have a pretty common leaking problem. Strange shocks seem to be the way to go if you want a drag shock, supposed to be better built than the QA1s, and have better valving.
You CAN have best of both worlds though, people on Koni SA's have cut 1.5 60ft times, comparable to a drag shock but WAY WAY better handling, ride and stability. People think that the shock is such a big deal for drag when its really not if you aren't running really fast times(single digit's, which stock shocks can do) or trying to squeeze every last tenth out. Its more about the tire and overall setup. So you don't have to waste money buying a shock that will suck to drive on the street only to get you a tenth or two in a strait line...

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

10 bolt is what I meant not 12, my bad but anyway I would like a little of both worlds, but more performance comfort can come later. But I'm definitely thinking the subframe connectors and LCAs now, all of you guys have been a huge help!

How hard is replacing the stock master cylinder?

BStowers023

iTrader: (1)

Not real hard just disconnect the line in your transmission, then go under your drivers side dash and pull the cover off and you will see where it connects to your clutch and there are 2 bolts you have to disconnect then you can pull it out from your engine bay. When you install the tick, make sure you bench bleed it first. There are a lot of step by step directions on how to install a master cylinder on here just look it up.

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

Alright sounds good, is this a good one to use?

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-sl...or-ls1-f-body/

Joey@Tick

iTrader: (20)

That is the best slave cylinder to use.

Our Adjustable Clutch Master Cylinder is here: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...or-ls1-f-body/

94zGreen

iTrader: (3)

Thank you, should be placing an order soon!