MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

^Hmmmmmm that is a thought actually.

I guess the downside to doing that would be that I'd have to retune again if I wanted heads?

Or pay for labor twice if you have to pull the heads to put the cam in?

Or maybe I could just get my stock heads ported too? Hmmmmmmmm.

Help appreciated keep it coming!

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

The heads don't have to be removed to put the cam in.

PSI GUY

iTrader: (3)

I'm doing everything at once....lol, my cost is not going to be good. As mentioned earlier in the post, the stock 10 bolt is not that great, so launching easy is pretty much a given, I decided to go to a 9 inch setup instead in my car. Again, starting from the rear, a good rearend first, then find the next weakest link and go from there, on a stock 10 bolt, adding more power is going to add more stress and possibly create breakage. It's really hard to make that call, I'd do both

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

You mentioned wanting to run eleven's so you are going to have to run a tire to get there so forget the stock rear end. No sense putting a gear in the car which is more likely to break then the stock one when you add the extra power.
The cheapest way is to only spend the money once.

NC98Z

iTrader: (1)

If I were you I would start looking for a 9" rearend. Alot of people demod or part out their cars after they wreck them and you can pickup a rearend at a reasonable cost. The 10bolts can't even handle an auto launching at the track and a M6 is just gonna make you mad.

garygnu

I wouldn't want to put money into a rear that mite not handle the power you want to make.you can get a head /cam pkg from TSP for $1700.

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

Hmm. Good advice. I really would only be taking it to the track to measure it, so maybe 10-15 passes? I guess I'd just be on borrowed time....but 10-15 launches on street or even drag radials should be okay....right?

How much of a difference do you think a good differential cover would do?

Thule

i would spent the money that would get you a head/cam package on a 9" or 12" rear,

the guy that told you to build your car from the rear was so rigth..

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

You really think I need a 9"? A lot of people have made it work with the stock rear. But again I'd prob only take it to the track for a day or two to get some seat time and get a good measure of where the cars at, then just street it. I think for that application a 9" is a little unnecessary?

Thule

i think the 9" is always one of the best modds you can do to the car, i have a H/C/I+150shot car, w/ upgraded 10bolt and 3:73 and there is a constant fear of braking it, i really cant use the power

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

Ok well there you go though, you have H/C AND a 150 shot with more gear and haven't broke it yet right? A fear of breaking the rear is different than it being broken. Not to say that 10 bolts don't break but idk seems unnecessary as I won't be launching the car THAT much.

Thule

mine isnt broken because i almost never drive the car

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

Wait and so how did you upgrade the 10 bolt?

arock24

iTrader: (4)

You can go about it various ways (replacing the stock 7.5 internals or upgrade to a 8.5 10") Neither are worth the money, and unless you are planning on 500+hp, a 9" is overkill IMO. IF you go with a different rear, go with a 12in and you will rob a lot less HP. It's all based on how you drive though. My car has 115k on the stock rear end, yes I take it to the track every now and then, but do I punch it at every stop I'm at when just driving? no. You're 10in will be fine if you maintain it properly and don't beat the **** out of it.

Dragman

13 sec ETs are alot diff than 11s just saying

arock24

iTrader: (4)

Ran consistent 11.6's in my '00. Only difference from my '02 was a stall, LT's, cam, and DR's. Never had a problem with the rear. Granted, a4's are a lot easier on them though.

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

Still can't decide also....

MEGATRONSS

iTrader: (2)

So I'm thinking that I'm going I do gears first...3.90's with a diff cover an then after Cam and port out the stock heads

What do u guys think? I'm at ~350 rwhp now I should be pretty close to 400 after?

JohnS Z28

iTrader: (1)

if your goanna do gears just go all out with 4.10s...
dont bother porting stock heads, once again, save your money and get 243's, and send them off for porting later. and of course call a sponsor to match you a cam to your new heads.

Orange Juice

iTrader: (3)

I was at 435/410 with a stock ten bolt but never ran a sticky tire and only went to the track occasionally. A friend of mine who babied his completly stock ls1 m6 (granny shifted and never ran better then a 13.9) broke his ten bolt by having one wheel on the gravel shoulder and one wheel on asphalt and giving it a little too much gas. If you stay with a street tire you should be okay its just going to be tough getting into the 11's with a six speed on a street tire.