Adjust throttle cable to open TB to 100%, how?
#1
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Adjust throttle cable to open TB to 100%, how?
With the car NOT running, I had a buddy put the gas pedal
to the floor while I was under the hood and noticed
that the throttle body butterfly does not open to the bumpstop.
It only opens to about 80%, theres about a 1/4 inch gap
before it would hit the bumpstop.
I have a Shaner S2, so I'm wondering if I need to adjust
the throttle cable now so that it opens fully.
How do I adjust the throttle cable so it opens to 100%?
thanks
to the floor while I was under the hood and noticed
that the throttle body butterfly does not open to the bumpstop.
It only opens to about 80%, theres about a 1/4 inch gap
before it would hit the bumpstop.
I have a Shaner S2, so I'm wondering if I need to adjust
the throttle cable now so that it opens fully.
How do I adjust the throttle cable so it opens to 100%?
thanks
#3
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no he's saying that the blade stops b4 it even gets to the bump stop right?
hmmmm.. if you dont get your answer b4 it i will find out tonight.....
good luck...
hmmmm.. if you dont get your answer b4 it i will find out tonight.....
good luck...
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#8
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if you have tcs you can adjust the cable from the box under the hood... if you don't have tcs you will have to adjust it from the gas pedal inside the car... if you press up on the gas pedal that will pull all the slack out and you will see a small piece of cable sticking out... what you need to do is somehow keep that piece of cable from sliding back down into the cable housing... what i originally did was put a zip tie around the cable to keep the slack out of it... my car is a 98 and i later found out the newer cars (i believe 99-02) had a larger throttle cable cam on the throttle body... so after i had my throttle body ported i took the zip tie off and got a cam from an 02 car and it took all of my slack out without having to modify the cable at the end of the gas pedal... it sounds confusing but if you get under the dash and mess with it, you will see how it works and what i said will seem alot clearer
#9
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Follow your throttle cable and you will see a joint in it. Wrapped around that joint is a clip. Unsnap it, then pull on both sides of that joint and snap the clip back on it. I ran into the same problem with mine. That fixed it. If you need pics pm me and I'll get'em to ya to describe what I mean.
#10
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Follow your throttle cable and you will see a joint in it. Wrapped around that joint is a clip. Unsnap it, then pull on both sides of that joint and snap the clip back on it. I ran into the same problem with mine. That fixed it. If you need pics pm me and I'll get'em to ya to describe what I mean.
if you don't have tcs you will have to adjust it from the gas pedal inside the car... if you press up on the gas pedal that will pull all the slack out and you will see a small piece of cable sticking out... what you need to do is somehow keep that piece of cable from sliding back down into the cable housing... what i originally did was put a zip tie around the cable to keep the slack out of it... my car is a 98 and i later found out the newer cars (i believe 99-02) had a larger throttle cable cam on the throttle body... so after i had my throttle body ported i took the zip tie off and got a cam from an 02 car and it took all of my slack out without having to modify the cable at the end of the gas pedal... it sounds confusing but if you get under the dash and mess with it, you will see how it works and what i said will seem alot clearer
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If the snap adjusters don't get you all the way to dead
center, you may have to pull the gas pedal arm and
bend more angle into it. I've seen cars that would pull
only 80% with everything adjustable, adjusted.
center, you may have to pull the gas pedal arm and
bend more angle into it. I've seen cars that would pull
only 80% with everything adjustable, adjusted.
#17
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I discovered something similar on my truck and posted here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...y-spacers.html
To fix it I pulled the slack through the pedal assembly and slid a small barrel spacer over the cable and then followed it with a lockwasher. I then mashed the open end of the washer together so it wrapped tighter around the cable. The result is the pedal is further from the floor and closer to the driver and when I put my foot on it, there is no slack so it starts opening the blade immediately.
This not only assure WOT, but also gives the illusion of "better throttle response" since there is no slack in the cable to take up before the blade begins to open.
If I had a torch I would pull the pedal and heat the rod then bend the top portion outward toward the driver to accomplish the same thing like Jimmy said. I was looking for a quick fix.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...y-spacers.html
To fix it I pulled the slack through the pedal assembly and slid a small barrel spacer over the cable and then followed it with a lockwasher. I then mashed the open end of the washer together so it wrapped tighter around the cable. The result is the pedal is further from the floor and closer to the driver and when I put my foot on it, there is no slack so it starts opening the blade immediately.
This not only assure WOT, but also gives the illusion of "better throttle response" since there is no slack in the cable to take up before the blade begins to open.
If I had a torch I would pull the pedal and heat the rod then bend the top portion outward toward the driver to accomplish the same thing like Jimmy said. I was looking for a quick fix.
#19
Not really, the ECU gets the reading from the TPS which senses the position of a TB shaft, not the cable. This has nothing to do with the fuel, because basically the ECU will read the MAF readings and RPM to calculate the amount of fuel needed for specific AFR, which will be around 12.5:1 once you reach 4-5k RPM anyway. Of course there are much more variables but I just skipped all those.